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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 111
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Warrumbungles

nmonteith
31/03/2010
1:41:58 PM
Has there been any new routes done since the late 80s?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
31/03/2010
2:03:35 PM
The Coonbarabran Bushwalking Club (has a climbing sub-group), would likely know, and possibly Sydney Rockies.
I would think the ACA site would also be a repository of new routes?

Unless a guidebook update is on the cards, then not much will come out of the woodwork. Hmm, reminds me about the new routes (from that time period!!), I have done on Mt Timor that need my filed write-ups submitted...

The good Dr
31/03/2010
2:08:41 PM
On 31/03/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>Has there been any new routes done since the late 80s?

Did one in the late 90s on Crater Bluff W face. The description is on the ACA website.
Mark R
31/03/2010
5:35:53 PM
On 31/03/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 31/03/2010 Auspep wrote:
>>If you climb straight out the top of Caucusus Corner there is a line
>of
>>hangers (prob 7 or 8) that go through the overhung choss at the top!
>
>Does anyone know any further detail on this line? FA party, date, name
>of line, etc?
>I also wonder if the loose volkswagon size block is still perched in the
>top of that corner?

The route is a grade 22 direct finich to CC. Was originally attempted OS without bolts with a resultant 30m plus fall leaving the leader well south of the belayer. Somehow injuries were minimal and everyone walked out to fight another day. The lads returned, put in 4 bolts and did the business. Have seconded the route... dont recall it being any more loose than the rest of this part of the world (and any loose block would be well smaller than the caravan perched over the original traverse line!)... but be warned, it is a still a very spacey pitch with big (10m+) falls definitely possible. Good though.

Hope everyone enjoys easter... beautiful up there!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
31/03/2010
5:46:32 PM
Thanks for the feedback Mark R.

Well done to the FA team (and also for your ascent), of that line.
If it takes the roof direct then it is hard to think of a more exposed line in the 'Bungles, and imo would be on a par with De Gauls nose in Tassie etc.

From your account, whoever put it up should submit an article on it to Rock mag, as it has all the ingredients of high adventure.

Superstu
31/03/2010
5:58:27 PM
On 31/03/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>Has there been any new routes done since the late 80s?

Did one last Easter. There is plenty still to do out there, bolt gun not essential.

One Day Hero
31/03/2010
9:36:21 PM
On 31/03/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>I think I have a problem. I really do.
>
>I have a Bosch. I have bolted sport climbs. I have placed anchors. I'm
>no saint.
>
>Then someone mentions taking a power drill to places like The Warrumbungles
>and I lose all rationality. I forget that I have a power drill myself and
>I become some rabid antibolting crusader. I become John Bachar, only minus
>the climbing ability and the saxophone. I say things that I end up regretting.
>I piss people off. I make enemies.
>
>Then I charge up the Bosch and go bolting and glue in dirty big ring bolts.
>
>I'm a hypocrite. I realise that.
>
>I need to seek professional help. I really do.

Wow, that sums up perfectly my own feelings about bolting!

I hate the idea of all the dangerousness being OH+Sed out of the activity, but don't want to see folk getting hurt either. I rave at folk for retrobolting and I retrobolt?!

Have been practising the bass quite a bit lately.....maybe if I get to be as good as Bachar was on sax, I'll find peace with my climbing ethics?

nmonteith
31/03/2010
10:54:00 PM
On 31/03/2010 superstu wrote:
>Did one last Easter.

Where is the write-up?

pmonks
1/04/2010
4:05:59 AM
On 31/03/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>Have been practising the bass quite a bit lately.....maybe if I get to
>be as good as Bachar was on sax, I'll find peace with my climbing ethics?

Or die soloing?

Superstu
1/04/2010
8:10:49 AM
On 31/03/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>On 31/03/2010 superstu wrote:
>>Did one last Easter.
>
>Where is the write-up?

Thrutch


I wouldn't bother hunting it down. Only a single pitch route on an obscure cliff, ground up on sight etc etc. But the Bungles look great for doing exactly that.
jrc
1/04/2010
10:56:41 AM
I've done a couple too.

A grade 16 variant to the crux pitch of Cornerstone; climbs the corner by the tree inside the gully. I wrote this up in the book on the summit.

Also 2 climbs on Bluff Pyramid: both on the arete facing Bluff Mountain, Osiris Arete (March 1978) and a route next to it last Easter. I think I wrote OA up years ago in an SRC newsletter. By the way Bluff Pyramid is not really a major cliff with major potential.

There is a nice direct crack variant available to the crux pitch of Ginsberg. Will go at 21+ I reckon which is too hard for me, but it straightens the line considerably (by avoiding the traverse way out right & back left again that is the crux pitch of this climb).



beard_stroker
5/04/2010
8:35:06 PM
Interesting to hear this weekend the sound of a rotary hammer drill bashing away in the bungles...
gfdonc
6/04/2010
1:44:44 PM
Wasn't Neil up there?
jgoding
6/04/2010
9:32:21 PM
How was the trip Neil? Did you get any good photos? Is the ACA likely to see your skilled hand upgrade it's current meager offering?

nmonteith
6/04/2010
10:14:38 PM
On 6/04/2010 jgoding wrote:
>How was the trip Neil? Did you get any good photos? Is the ACA likely to
>see your skilled hand upgrade it's current meager offering?

Twas a good trip. Perfect weather, I just wish the better routes were in the shade rather than the sun all day! I haven't seen this much sun in years. My back is about to deliminate. I did Lieban and Flight of the Phoenix - both by via accidental direct starts - adding considerable hardship to Flight! After walking down past Bluff Mtn on our way out I really regret not going and doing another route on that wall - it's simply mindblowing for Australia. I'll try and update the ACA guide when i get the time. The old ROCK guide is terrible when I tried using it. Access description for Bluff Mtn was especially bad - something like 'walk to mountain from Balor Hut - it takes about an hour'. Hmm - not exactly very explicit. I grovelled up part of a potential new route on Crator Bluffs south-east side. It is the very obvious orange crack splitting the wall about 60m up the wall (above the traverse of the original route). The route was a chossfest special - lots of loose blocks which i turfed onto my belayers below for several hours. Halfway up was an old manky hex pre-dating the invention of cams I imagine. Above this point was so many stacked death blocks that I really doubt it was climbed any further. I trundled them all and grovelled into a groove to belay. I don't recommend anyone bother trying to repeat it. Extension to come when I return...
Auspep
7/04/2010
8:22:57 AM
Heard those rocks clattering down for hours...sounded like a fun route!

It really was perfect weather up there. Our group got up a heap of classics pegassus, out and beyond, london dockyard and ulysses (brilliant). People really should venture furtherr around on Bluff Mountain than flight, there are some fantastic routes over there.

We also cleared the track down to Crater Bluff and cairned it the whole way. We'll do the bluff mountain track again next trip.

nmonteith
7/04/2010
8:37:16 AM
On 7/04/2010 Auspep wrote:
>We also cleared the track down to Crater Bluff and cairned it the whole
>way. We'll do the bluff mountain track again next trip.

Ah! That explains it. The first day i walked in i pretty much had to bush bash down the guly - and then on the way out there was suddenly a lovely path. Thanks! It made it a lot easier to negotiate at night.
jgoding
7/04/2010
2:09:32 PM
Hey Peter, if you have any good photos of Bluff Mountain (or any other areas) can you send them to Neil and I so that we can improve the on-line ACA guide? I didn't have my snazzy SLR and zoom lenses last trip I went there, some good photos would make all the difference to make clear where the routes go, and where the access is. Some GPS points of interest would also be pretty handy if anyone has that info?

nmonteith
7/04/2010
2:49:02 PM
I've got very good topo photos of Bluff Mountain shot with an SLR.
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/Sports/Climbing/2nd-April-2010-Warrumbungles/11734683_CRFHr#828291716_sDeBt
Auspep
7/04/2010
3:05:20 PM
I don't really have any decent photos of Bluff other than the one everyone has from the tourist walking track, but that only shows as far as Flight pretty much. I have plenty of photos whilst climbing but they are no good for topos.

Every trip I say, we have to walk to the top of Mt Exmouth and get a photo of Bluff from there. But alas, climbing, rain or port usually get in the way...

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There are 111 messages in this topic.

 

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