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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Camel's Hump Western Cliffs Omega Block [ Camels Hump Guide | Images ] 

Author
Omega Block Super Topo

phil_nev
Online Now
12/02/2007
3:33:34 PM
Talk about making a route as uninspiring as possible... If a route need a freakin rule book for you to climb it, its a bloody waste of time. May as well daytrip to the gramps!
dalai
12/02/2007
3:45:21 PM
On 12/02/2007 phil_nev wrote:
>Talk about making a route as uninspiring as possible... If a route need
>a freakin rule book for you to climb it, its a bloody waste of time. May
>as well daytrip to the gramps!

How come you don't need a rule book for climbing in the Gramps phil_nev? Do they have plaques below each cliff with the crag rules posted to make the rule book superfluous? ;-)

Seriously Will, I can't see why this line isn't as credible as any other on the block. I say why not! Though climbing it as the direct variant variant on Hollow screams is THE LINE!

phil_nev
Online Now
12/02/2007
3:47:19 PM
No need for a rule book when your climbing a 'real' line... If you can reach it... Its in!

nmonteith
12/02/2007
4:23:09 PM
Route look fine Will. Just make sure you super camo the rings to fit it the rest of the SCV work we did on
that wall. If i ever do the route i'll be batmaning the first move.

cruze
12/02/2007
4:39:49 PM
I guess you were going to put the bolt above the warlock scoopy traverse so that it would be out of reach for warlock? If it was within reach it would probably take warlock down a serious notch at what is the best bit of that climb. That would be a shame.

alrob
12/02/2007
5:36:50 PM
On 12/02/2007 phil_nev wrote:
>No need for a rule book when your climbing a 'real' line... If you can
>reach it... Its in!

i could 'reach' all the way into boogie after the first few moves! awesome, it's so much easier using this logic! thanks phil, now i have an ethical way of skipping cruxes.

kezza
12/02/2007
8:30:38 PM
You always skip cruxes Al ya lanky larry!

phil_nev
Online Now
13/02/2007
8:34:53 AM
No worries Al, No doubt youll get the tick pretty soon with this PSB (Philby Special Beta)

westie
13/02/2007
8:45:08 AM
While on the subject of Camel's Hump,

Iv'e been there 7-8 times this summer and the Omega Block on a warm day draws climbers like flies to s---. Does nobody head round to the Eastern Outcrops? sure there are no mega classics and Neil won't get a photo of ya but there's heaps of rock, some of it steep and nobody in sight. We've only seen two other climbers in 4-5 trips round the back and they were lost anyway.

sorry, forget I said that - i'll keep it to myself.

nmonteith
13/02/2007
10:03:31 AM
its shady in the arvo as well. im thinking about doing a trip up there this thursday night.

westie
13/02/2007
10:13:38 AM
I'd recommend the 20/21 around to the right of space jugging, its a bit of a scramble at the bottom but some good moves and pro through the crux at the overhang.
dalai
13/02/2007
11:07:59 AM
On 13/02/2007 westie wrote:
>I'd recommend the 20/21 around to the right of space jugging, its a bit
>of a scramble at the bottom but some good moves and pro through the crux
>at the overhang.

This routes okay, but I think where this side of Camel's come's into its own are the easier lines with no queues...

Errr... all the climbs around this side are worthless like Westie said earlier... no point venturing around!
WM
14/02/2007
10:50:58 AM
On 12/02/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>you have to do the hideous start to Broomstick though. We really need to glue a big fat gym hold on for that move.

It's not that bad you big softy.

On 12/02/2007 chalkischeap wrote:
>go straight up the aręte instead – 3 move boulder problem. Has this part been climbed before? Wills new carrot replacement bolt may
>be useful here (application approved).

Nope - the carrot is out of reach from the hollow screams arete. But I'll take the approval anyway.

On 12/02/2007 dalai wrote:
>climbing it as the direct variant variant on Hollow screams is THE LINE!

It'd be more like a hollow screams direct variant upper left variant. Anyway, I'm sure Al reckons *the* line is hollow satan's broomstick bop with 4 belayers.

On 12/02/2007 nmonteith wrote:
> Just make sure you super camo the rings

Errr when I said "we" should salvage the line …. I sorta meant anyone other than myself! You could always take your drill tomorrow…. ;)

On 12/02/2007 cruze wrote:
>going to put the bolt above the warlock scoopy traverse so that it would be out of reach for warlock?

Correct - the proposed retrobolt would preferably be placed just above the lip of the bulge so that if warlock climbers were wussing out on the (excellent) traverse they would have to pull a 22 move, clip, and reverse the 22 move - which is highly unlikely on a 19.

alrob
26/10/2007
12:48:43 PM
**bump**

well, its getting to that time of year again. yep, the camels season begins once more!

so, how many new routes will go up this time? my fitness is a bit down at the moment, but my aim for the end of summer is the line of all lines! you all thought Serpentine looked RAD, well this will be even RADDERER. thats right, RADDER then RADDER, thats 3 TIMES THE RADDNESSSSSSS

start up Hollow Screams, and once the hard climbing finishes, head left, finding all the cruxes of the routes on your way to the final crux on Satanic Verses........

whooooooos coming with me? the little polish man down the road thinks its a good idea, small african children are hand making my rope in Namibia. Time magazine has already contacted me for exclusive rights to the scoop. Sky news also displayed some interest of televising the send, complete with commentary and The Worm!!!!

phil_nev
Online Now
26/10/2007
1:43:35 PM
On 26/10/2007 alrob wrote:
>**bump**
>
>well, its getting to that time of year again. yep, the camels season begins
>once more!
>
>so, how many new routes will go up this time? my fitness is a bit down
>at the moment, but my aim for the end of summer is the line of all lines!
>you all thought Serpentine looked RAD, well this will be even RADDERER.
>thats right, RADDER then RADDER, thats 3 TIMES THE RADDNESSSSSSS
>
>start up Hollow Screams, and once the hard climbing finishes, head left,
>finding all the cruxes of the routes on your way to the final crux on Satanic
>Verses........
>
>whooooooos coming with me? the little polish man down the road thinks
>its a good idea, small african children are hand making my rope in Namibia.
>Time magazine has already contacted me for exclusive rights to the scoop.
>Sky news also displayed some interest of televising the send, complete
>with commentary and The Worm!!!!

Im sure Josh will be rushing to repeat it now he has a new found love off linkups....

alrob
28/10/2007
1:48:30 PM
new route:

The Witch sat on my Broomstick and I liked it very much: 25m, ***23

Link-Up

Up Broomstick past 3 bolts, traversing left before carrot bolt into Bewitched finishing up last 2 bolts. Visionary line and some of the best climbing in Victoria. Now THE trade route of Melbourne.

phil_nev
Online Now
28/10/2007
2:37:22 PM
Al thats a repeat.... Already been done.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 37
There are 37 messages in this topic.

 

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