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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Cathedral NSW open for business

rodw
22/04/2011
11:43:07 AM
Hahaha..nice one Dr C

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/04/2011
9:56:10 AM
On 22/04/2011 cogsy wrote:
>On 21/04/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>It sounds contrived.
>
>... and this is used as an argument by an Aid climber!!!

& rodw replied;
>Hahaha..nice one Dr C

I agree! ~> and did get a chuckle from that.

There are a number of interpretations of 'contrived' though, ~> just like grades in aid... heh, heh, heh.
mikllaw
19/05/2011
12:22:45 PM
Stu and I were there this morning at Angel's Buttress, the crack-ridden right end of the crag.
There were 2 old climbs here - Wire Brush and Dettol (18) and Torniquet (16). I don't know if these were ever led or only toproped; WB+D has 2 old bolts (one on a ledge 4m right of the crux, and one at the top) but would have been loose death, it's 20 and well protected now.

Stu led Torniquet, and for a while it looked as though he might have gotten a project (almost closer to 5.16 than grade 16, well not really). Probaly 21. The biggest Friend worked for the first 3m, then an old bolt, then a cunningly placed barbell.


It's a good place to learn jambing, we also did another FA this morning, the next line to the right is a nice 18, Buffalo Bum.


Superstu
19/05/2011
3:12:39 PM
Looking down from above, the gear list for Torniquet is no.6 friend, manky bolt, barbell, sling around chickenhead, hexes and cams to top.



Buffalo Bum is pretty good. Needs some traffic.

Andrew_M
19/05/2011
3:16:06 PM
Stu, do you know if you can get lightweight titanium barbells for alpine use?

tnd
19/05/2011
4:29:29 PM
Why would anyone go sport climbing with classics like this around?
mikllaw
19/05/2011
6:42:29 PM
All the trad climbers are too busy foaming at the keyboard, so the guidebook editor pays the sports climbers to put up trad routes.

It's called outsourcing,

We also offer outcleaning, outjambing, and outswearing.

pmonks
20/05/2011
2:41:22 AM
Stu, do you always carry a barbell on your rack?

mikl, do you offer weghts porter services as well?

[Edit] Apparently I could do with spellcheck services too - is there a package deal on all of the above?

Superstu
20/05/2011
9:28:15 AM
On 19/05/2011 Andrew_M wrote:
>Stu, do you know if you can get lightweight titanium barbells for alpine use?

You'll have to ask Dr Frankenclaw who holds the patent on these.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/05/2011
8:32:33 PM
On 19/05/2011 mikllaw wrote:
>All the trad climbers are too busy foaming at the keyboard, so the guidebook
>editor pays the sports climbers to put up trad routes.
>
>It's called outsourcing,
>
>We also offer outcleaning, outjambing, and outswearing.

You forgot outretroing...
Heh, heh, heh.

nmonteith
27/05/2011
9:22:39 AM
Just spent the morning at the Cathderal with Mikl doing some of the new routes. They were great! Started with Layback Crack (which i jammed rather than lay backed?!) which was really nice with a great airy arÍte move up high. Probably the highlight of the morning was Wacky Tobbaci in its new airy variation. It's a mega crack and chimney line which you end up chimneying with lots of air beneath your feet as it goes through quite a steep section. The top is brilliant arÍte face climbing as well. Nice spaced bolting makes it quite exciting. It's very rare to have such a major line at a suburban sydney crag. Another good route was Gutterfingers, a harder finish to crag classic Creature Feature. This new route has two sloppy vertical grooves you have to layback and stem up. Really nice rock quality and interesting climbing. Conditions at the crag we're perfect this morning. Thanks Mike for all the hard work you've put into the new stuff.

BundyBear
27/05/2011
11:05:04 AM
Good marketing Mr Monty

rodw
27/05/2011
11:26:20 AM
Lol

BundyBear
27/05/2011
12:15:28 PM
But the Stellar routes you should have done are:

Ghostrider (23)
Bundy's Been Boltin' (22)
BBB - Direct Finish (aka, the Missing Link) (Open Project)
Imogen (21)
Failure is your Friend (22)
widewetandslippery
27/05/2011
12:20:01 PM
On 27/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>This new route has two sloppy vertical grooves
>you have to layback and stem up.

This sounds like a crazy john nowra guide gay porn photo opportunity. What fluid made them sloppy?
nipple hair
30/05/2011
7:48:48 PM
hey
i was the culprit who bolted "take me to the tropics" 25 sorry the first bolt is high

and rebolted i few others a few years back
including that 27 extn. thing, i then attempted to climb it and pulled of a large jug??
far out.. i glued it back on but never got around to linking it

good crag that one

Q: is that hold at the top of the 28 a chip?? (not being critical, due to age of route just wondering)

nipple hair
30/05/2011
7:53:13 PM
i put the stuff i did on the ACA website
mikllaw
31/05/2011
8:37:04 AM
On 30/05/2011 nipple hair wrote:
>hey
>i was the culprit who bolted "take me to the tropics" 25 sorry the first
>bolt is high
I retro'd "Moss Ghyll Grooves" (which it starts up) so it's all sane now, the traverse on "Take me to the Tropics looks", well, hard

>Q: is that hold at the top of the 28 a chip?? (not being critical, due
>to age of route just wondering)
Yes, Glacis, at about 10m there was a big pebble that lasted till the 2nd ascent, so there's now a small slot there
nipple hair
31/05/2011
2:54:22 PM
yep that would make sense, it looked like a 3 finger slot for memory, the top is very pebbly

who got the 2nd ascent ? and how many ascents has it had by now i wonder?
its such a cool line, very hard,

i checked out the online guide, that sites changed a lot for the better
so my route is contrived hey :)
and according to prices cave i'm the "next generation" :) who wrote that ? im quite old and rarely climb anymore ... (if anyone wants to down grade that thing its ok a really have no idea what the grade is) about v10

how many online guide sites are there now, gets a bit confusing,
nipple hair
31/05/2011
3:02:05 PM
something about me putting Paul Westwood to bed. god, i hope he doesn't ever read it :)

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 44
There are 44 messages in this topic.

 

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