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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozymandias
egosan
10/03/2011
12:09:23 PM
Hey folks,

I am looking for some high quality photos suitable for print of the full length of Ozymandias. I would like to make a large detailed topo for personal use this Autumn.

I would be grateful for any help.

Cheers,
Sol
mikllaw
10/03/2011
12:49:23 PM


IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/03/2011
7:54:25 PM
Laughed out loud @ the Mikl post...

~> You might enjoy this pic more (that Hex ripped off someone), ... but is one of the few I have seen that shows the entire route from an interesting perspective.


Organ Pipe
10/03/2011
10:04:06 PM
Dunno whether this'll be of interest, but I shot it a couple of weeks ago for similar reasons (to scope out the line and suss a bit of beta).

I zoom in at 18 seconds - watch in 720p if you want detail.

Apologies for the jerky panning...

One Day Hero
10/03/2011
10:46:15 PM
Topo, schmopo! Just climb the obvious line up the big white corner. When the corner bails left, hang a right on 2 bolts. Follow the bolts up to the roof, rejoin the corner, keep following the line of least resistance till you're at the top!

The bottom half is mostly small stuff, then a couple of pitches of mostly medium stuff, then a couple of pitches of mostly big stuff.

Done! Thats all the topo you need. Don't try to be like the yanks, over analysing and over betaizing!

nmonteith
10/03/2011
10:57:11 PM
I have to agree with ODH. Climb the ONLY clean line on that section of wall. If you find yourself elbow deep in moss you are off-route. Enjoy!

Miguel75
11/03/2011
12:14:37 AM
Be sure to put together a TR when you send it Sol. I have a goal to climb Ozy this year and would love to hear your tale.
One Day Hero
11/03/2011
1:54:19 AM
On 11/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>I have a goal to climb
>Ozy this year

When he meant to say "Yeah, that thing looks pretty sweet. I reckon I wouldn't mind smashing the f---er.............anyone free for a w/e in the next 2 months?"

Cause "having a goal" sounds a bit pussy
kieranl
11/03/2011
9:44:05 AM
On 10/03/2011 egosan wrote:

>I am looking for some high quality photos suitable for print of the full
>length of Ozymandias. I would like to make a large detailed topo for personal
>use this Autumn.
>
Exactly what sort of "personal use" are you intending for it?
egosan
11/03/2011
9:59:27 AM
On 11/03/2011 kieranl wrote:

>Exactly what sort of "personal use" are you intending for it?

Time to update the spank bank.

I am heading up that way in the near future, Kieran. I will treat you all to the full spray in a TR.

Miguel75
11/03/2011
10:29:38 AM
On 11/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>When he meant to say "Yeah, that thing looks pretty sweet. I reckon I
>wouldn't mind smashing the fu@&$r.............anyone free for a w/e in
>the next 2 months?"
>
>Cause "having a goal" sounds a bit pussy

I know it sounds airy fairy, but I have it in mind to do before my bday in Dec. I need a bit of time to get my hauling & jugging (& climbing) skills up to speed... And I need to learn to not be a sook.

egosan
11/03/2011
10:52:09 AM
There will be no better teacher than Ozy, Miguel.
Fish Boy
11/03/2011
2:56:48 PM
On 11/03/2011 egosan wrote:
>There will be no better teacher than Ozy, Miguel.

Too right. I'd never hauled, built a hauling setup, stood in etts, jugged or pulled on gear before I found myself at the bottom of the thing....too pussy to rap in too.

It was a great success....

Miguel75
11/03/2011
3:07:49 PM
That sounds awesome Fish Boy. How long did it take you?

Miguel75
11/03/2011
3:13:58 PM
Good point Sol. I'm all excited now...
One Day Hero
11/03/2011
10:48:52 PM
On 11/03/2011 egosan wrote:
>There will be no better teacher than Ozy, Miguel.

+1 more, Miguel

I was 22yrs old, 2 and a half yrs of climbing 'experience', the crux pitch on Ozy was my 2nd ever pitch of aiding.........I owned 1 tcu and had never heard of camhooks. Its not as hard as people make out!

Also, ozy is a 2 day route (at most) -

Day 1: Wake up in the carpark, walk down, climb to big grassy, fix a pitch if you can, doss on the ledge

Day 2: Climb to the top, drive home, drink some beer, bone your wife

Hey, find yourself a partner asap. It'll help to make sure things actually happen. What about Hargs? Where's he disappeared to?

mattjr
11/03/2011
11:19:17 PM
On 11/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:

>Day 2: Climb to the top, drive home, drink some beer, bone your wife

I think Sol was planning for a 1 day ascent, good thing seeing as he's both gluten and wife intolerant ;D

Miguel75
11/03/2011
11:56:36 PM
Thanks for the G up ODH. I might have to move my timeline up... I now have two sets of cam hooks and am keen to actually get on a wall with them, instead of just playing around on small stuff. I've actually been doing a bit of hooking on self belay TR lately. It's amazing what you can hang off...

EDIT; what grades would you want to be comfortable climbing before you'd recommend tackling Ozy? Not climbing it free, rather aiding it!

Miguel75
12/03/2011
12:05:14 AM
Sol if you need a belay slave let me know. Did I mention I have a double ledge (cliff cabana)?
egosan
12/03/2011
8:03:13 AM
On 12/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>Sol if you need a belay slave let me know. Did I mention I have a double
>ledge (cliff cabana)?

Christ on crutches! Miguel, you are missing the point entirely. You don't want to nancy up second. You want to lead the c_cksucker!

I don't even want to see this thread drift into the relative merits of the double ledge room to maneuver v. the spooner single ledge.

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There are 41 messages in this topic.

 

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