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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	North Side	North Wall	[ Gorge Guide ]

Author

Ozymandias

egosan

10-Mar-2011
12:09:23 PM

Hey folks,

I am looking for some high quality photos suitable for print of the full length of Ozymandias. I would like to make a large detailed topo for personal use this Autumn.

I would be grateful for any help.

Cheers,
Sol

mikllaw

10-Mar-2011
12:49:23 PM


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Mar-2011
7:54:25 PM

Laughed out loud @ the Mikl post...

~> You might enjoy this pic more (that Hex ripped off someone), ... but is one of the few I have seen that shows the entire route from an interesting perspective.


Organ Pipe

10-Mar-2011
10:04:06 PM

Dunno whether this'll be of interest, but I shot it a couple of weeks ago for similar reasons (to scope out the line and suss a bit of beta).

I zoom in at 18 seconds - watch in 720p if you want detail.

Apologies for the jerky panning...

One Day Hero

10-Mar-2011
10:46:15 PM

Topo, schmopo! Just climb the obvious line up the big white corner. When the corner bails left, hang a right on 2 bolts. Follow the bolts up to the roof, rejoin the corner, keep following the line of least resistance till you're at the top!

The bottom half is mostly small stuff, then a couple of pitches of mostly medium stuff, then a couple of pitches of mostly big stuff.

Done! Thats all the topo you need. Don't try to be like the yanks, over analysing and over betaizing!


nmonteith

10-Mar-2011
10:57:11 PM

I have to agree with ODH. Climb the ONLY clean line on that section of wall. If you find yourself elbow deep in moss you are off-route. Enjoy!


Miguel75

11-Mar-2011
12:14:37 AM

Be sure to put together a TR when you send it Sol. I have a goal to climb Ozy this year and would love to hear your tale.

kieranl

11-Mar-2011
9:44:05 AM

On 10/03/2011 egosan wrote:

>I am looking for some high quality photos suitable for print of the full
>length of Ozymandias. I would like to make a large detailed topo for personal
>use this Autumn.
>
Exactly what sort of "personal use" are you intending for it?

egosan

11-Mar-2011
9:59:27 AM

On 11/03/2011 kieranl wrote:

>Exactly what sort of "personal use" are you intending for it?

Time to update the spank bank.

I am heading up that way in the near future, Kieran. I will treat you all to the full spray in a TR.


Miguel75

11-Mar-2011
10:29:38 AM

On 11/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>When he meant to say "Yeah, that thing looks pretty sweet. I reckon I
>wouldn't mind smashing the fu@&$r.............anyone free for a w/e in
>the next 2 months?"
>
>Cause "having a goal" sounds a bit pussy

I know it sounds airy fairy, but I have it in mind to do before my bday in Dec. I need a bit of time to get my hauling & jugging (& climbing) skills up to speed... And I need to learn to not be a sook.

egosan

11-Mar-2011
10:52:09 AM

There will be no better teacher than Ozy, Miguel.

Fish Boy

11-Mar-2011
2:56:48 PM

On 11/03/2011 egosan wrote:
>There will be no better teacher than Ozy, Miguel.

Too right. I'd never hauled, built a hauling setup, stood in etts, jugged or pulled on gear before I found myself at the bottom of the thing....too pussy to rap in too.

It was a great success....


Miguel75

11-Mar-2011
3:07:49 PM

That sounds awesome Fish Boy. How long did it take you?


Miguel75

11-Mar-2011
3:13:58 PM

Good point Sol. I'm all excited now...

One Day Hero

11-Mar-2011
10:48:52 PM

On 11/03/2011 egosan wrote:
>There will be no better teacher than Ozy, Miguel.

+1 more, Miguel

I was 22yrs old, 2 and a half yrs of climbing 'experience', the crux pitch on Ozy was my 2nd ever pitch of aiding.........I owned 1 tcu and had never heard of camhooks. Its not as hard as people make out!

Also, ozy is a 2 day route (at most) -

Day 1: Wake up in the carpark, walk down, climb to big grassy, fix a pitch if you can, doss on the ledge

Day 2: Climb to the top, drive home, drink some beer, bone your wife

Hey, find yourself a partner asap. It'll help to make sure things actually happen. What about Hargs? Where's he disappeared to?


mattjr

11-Mar-2011
11:19:17 PM

On 11/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:

>Day 2: Climb to the top, drive home, drink some beer, bone your wife

I think Sol was planning for a 1 day ascent, good thing seeing as he's both gluten and wife intolerant ;D


Miguel75

11-Mar-2011
11:56:36 PM

Thanks for the G up ODH. I might have to move my timeline up... I now have two sets of cam hooks and am keen to actually get on a wall with them, instead of just playing around on small stuff. I've actually been doing a bit of hooking on self belay TR lately. It's amazing what you can hang off...

EDIT; what grades would you want to be comfortable climbing before you'd recommend tackling Ozy? Not climbing it free, rather aiding it!


Miguel75

12-Mar-2011
12:05:14 AM

Sol if you need a belay slave let me know. Did I mention I have a double ledge (cliff cabana)?

egosan

12-Mar-2011
8:03:13 AM

On 12/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>Sol if you need a belay slave let me know. Did I mention I have a double
>ledge (cliff cabana)?

Christ on crutches! Miguel, you are missing the point entirely. You don't want to nancy up second. You want to lead the c_cksucker!

I don't even want to see this thread drift into the relative merits of the double ledge room to maneuver v. the spooner single ledge.


The Good Dr

12-Mar-2011
10:01:28 AM

On 11/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>EDIT; what grades would you want to be comfortable climbing before you'd
>recommend tackling Ozy? Not climbing it free, rather aiding it!

Don't worry about what grades you can climb, just get on it. The aiding is quite straightforward. You dont even need the cam hooks, but a double set of tiny wires is very useful. (RPs or whatever you fancy). M9 can cruise it and rumor has it that he struggles on anything above about grade 8!!

There are 40 messages in this topic.