Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

DMM: DMM ALLOY "Offset" have arrived!!! #Sizes 7 - 11. (5 piece) Range: 12 to 23.5mm. (Great Compliment to DMM Wallnuts. (Refer Peenuts for Profile) Awesome Pro!  $93.00
15% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Ozymandias

The Good Dr
Online Now
12/03/2011
10:01:28 AM
On 11/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>EDIT; what grades would you want to be comfortable climbing before you'd
>recommend tackling Ozy? Not climbing it free, rather aiding it!

Don't worry about what grades you can climb, just get on it. The aiding is quite straightforward. You dont even need the cam hooks, but a double set of tiny wires is very useful. (RPs or whatever you fancy). M9 can cruise it and rumor has it that he struggles on anything above about grade 8!!

Miguel75
12/03/2011
12:38:10 PM
On 12/03/2011 egosan wrote:
>Miguel, you are missing the point entirely. You don't
>want to nancy up second. You want to lead the c#Łksucker!
>

I still want to lead it though I'd also like someone to drag me up it whilst I relax (belay) on the ledge! I'd like to bag the first 'ledge based' ascent.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
12/03/2011
6:50:46 PM
On 12/03/2011 davidn wrote:
On 12/03/2011 The Good Dr wrote:
>>M9 can cruise it and rumor has it that he struggles on anything above about grade 8!!
>
>Who doesn't? Goddamn crimpy grade 8s.

+1 on those buggers!
Heh, heh, heh.

egosan wrote;
>relative merits of the double ledge room to maneuver v. the spooner single ledge.

I like the single ledge, without a spooner, but with a wall spoon, though must admit if trying to do multiday and travel light with a partner the double would be the go.
I ended up getting the single because it is marginally lighter than a double, and this factor counts for solo ascents...
Heh, heh, heh.
;-)
Fish Boy
12/03/2011
10:29:20 PM
On 12/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>On 12/03/2011 egosan wrote:
>>Miguel, you are missing the point entirely. You don't
>>want to nancy up second. You want to lead the c#Łksucker!
>>
>
>I still want to lead it though I'd also like someone to drag me up it
>whilst I relax (belay) on the ledge! I'd like to bag the first 'ledge based'
>ascent.

This isn't free climbing, you don't get dragged up anything aiding.

Seconding is by far the harder skill to learn.

skink
13/03/2011
5:56:42 AM
On 12/03/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>Seconding is by far the harder skill to learn.

Why?

Miguel75
13/03/2011
10:42:06 AM
On 12/03/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>This isn't free climbing, you don't get dragged up anything aiding.
>
>Seconding is by far the harder skill to learn.

Au contraire: I'm planning to pick up one of these: http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/military/research/atlas-hands-free-climbing-apparatus

All I'd need is for someone to fix the ropes for me, or I could solo it if someone has a 300mtr rope I can borrow, and I could remain in my ledge from bottom to top;)
One Day Hero
14/03/2011
9:45:45 AM
What's with the wierd shit of wanting to "lead" or "second" a 7 pitch friggin' climb?!

Go up there with a partner, lead your pitches, second their pitches, climb the thing together.......you know, like how when you step beyond bouldering and loweroff bolt-posing, climbing actually is a team sport........

wallwombat
14/03/2011
9:52:28 AM
I agree. One of the most enjoyable aspects of multipitch climbing is swinging leads and working as a team. You may get to that magical point where you can climb large stretches of rock barely saying a word to your partner because you both have your systems so dialed.
widewetandslippery
14/03/2011
10:21:59 AM
To quote Jake from 2 1/2 men

"I concur"


Weddin pics WW! 23/3 I'm off. Thought about ODHs trainning plan but I always get seriously injured.

wallwombat
14/03/2011
10:54:11 AM
On 14/03/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:

>Weddin pics WW! 23/3 I'm off. Thought about ODHs trainning plan but I
>always get seriously injured.

Will have some soon. We can get a lift to Nangar anytime we want and there is also the Cowra boulders and the granite boulders on private property that I have got permission to climb (extensive and very good quality), just out of Grenfell (10 mins).

We should definitely try to get out to Nangar.

Apologies for brief thread hijack.
egosan
14/03/2011
6:50:34 PM
On 14/03/2011 wm wrote:
>On 10/03/2011 egosan wrote:
>>I am looking for some high quality photos suitable for print of the full
>>length of Ozymandias. I would like to make a large detailed topo for
>personal
>>use this Autumn.
>
>topos on ACA not enough?
>http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=734


Sent a PM.
>
>the original shots are ~5 MB each, from a 8MP SLR with 200mm lens. happy
>to send them if you want
Fish Boy
14/03/2011
7:33:16 PM
On 13/03/2011 skink wrote:
>On 12/03/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>>Seconding is by far the harder skill to learn.
>
>Why?

For the most part, leading is just placing gear, which you do when you trad climb. Cleaning roofs and traverses are not intuitive...

Miguel75
14/03/2011
10:34:10 PM
The big question: Ozy or Ozy direct?
One Day Hero
14/03/2011
11:15:14 PM
On 14/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>The big question: Ozy or Ozy direct?

Carob or Chocolate?
Rod Stewart or James Brown?
Ford or Ferrari?
Hand Job or Full Service?

dave h.
14/03/2011
11:48:50 PM
Some friends and I have been on Ozy over summer. We diverted onto Ozy (Original) in order to save time as we're pretty slow at aiding.

The original route would be terrible to haul without a far-end hauler (which we used on all pitches above Big Grassy). The Direct has a much nicer line and wouldn't be so problematic.

I second Fish Boy's comments about seconding traverses. No matter which route you do you'll need to second some, so make sure you know how. And if you do decide to do the original, it's much easier to tension traverse left at the bolt on the 2nd pitch above Big Grassy (rather than aiding the thin corner to the roof and then following the thin crack between the roof and the wall left).
brendan
15/03/2011
7:53:51 AM
On 14/03/2011 dave h. wrote:
>Some friends and I have been on Ozy over summer. We diverted onto Ozy (Original)
>in order to save time as we're pretty slow at aiding.
>
>The original route would be terrible to haul without a far-end hauler
>(which we used on all pitches above Big Grassy).

I have used far-end hauling when soloing (and it works great) but would never use it when on a wall with a partner, the seconds job is to make sure the bags don't get stuck and to free them if the do, you shouldn't need to rap to the bags or get the second to haul them

Organ Pipe
15/03/2011
9:30:33 AM
On 14/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Go up there with a partner, lead your pitches, second their pitches, climb
>the thing together.......(snip) climbing actually is a team sport........

+

On 14/03/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>You may get to that magical point where you can climb large stretches of rock barely saying a >word to your partner because you both have your systems so dialed.

Completely agree. My best moments climbing have been when the partnership was dialed.
Fish Boy
15/03/2011
3:09:04 PM
On 14/03/2011 dave h. wrote:

>if you do decide to do the original, it's much easier to tension traverse
>left at the bolt on the 2nd pitch above Big Grassy (rather than aiding
>the thin corner to the roof and then following the thin crack between the
>roof and the wall left).

You what?!?!? I can't believe you climbed that thing! Nice! I thought it was pretty obvious just to swing over, mostly free with a wee bit of tension. Your way looked balls...

The hauling is fine on original, like Brendan said the 2nd can sort the fuss, which is minimal. Off the 7th we just let the bags rrriiiiiiipppppppp over to She wall, good times...the pitch after is a bitch though, solo more so...
simey
15/03/2011
4:10:31 PM
On 14/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 14/03/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>>The big question: Ozy or Ozy direct?
>
>Carob or Chocolate?
>Rod Stewart or James Brown?
>Ford or Ferrari?
>Hand Job or Full Service?

Sums things up perfectly. Although you probably wouldn't complain if you were cruising to the crag in your Ford, listening to Rod Stewart on the radio and getting a hand job from your girlfriend, these comparisons only makes you realise just how much better Ozy Direct is.

dave h.
15/03/2011
7:23:07 PM
On 15/03/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>On 14/03/2011 dave h. wrote:
>
>>if you do decide to do the original, it's much easier to tension traverse
>>left at the bolt on the 2nd pitch above Big Grassy (rather than aiding
>>the thin corner to the roof and then following the thin crack between
>the
>>roof and the wall left).
>
>You what?!?!? I can't believe you climbed that thing! Nice! I thought
>it was pretty obvious just to swing over, mostly free with a wee bit of
>tension. Your way looked balls...
>
>The hauling is fine on original, like Brendan said the 2nd can sort the
>fuss, which is minimal. Off the 7th we just let the bags rrriiiiiiipppppppp
>over to She wall, good times...the pitch after is a bitch though, solo
>more so...


Well I should explain. The first time I lead that pitch was Nov last year. I did the tension off to the left, and then went up the easier ground to the pedestal thing on the arete.

When my second came up we decided that discretion was the better part of valour, because it was Tuesday arvo and we had to be back in Sydney for work on Thursday morning, and were unsure what lay ahead. (We also thought we were off-route).

When I went back in Feb this year I still hadn't worked out that the pedestal was on route for the Original. So I thought I'd go up the crack under the roof just to check that it did lead to the pedestal - which, of course, it does.

Frightening? Yeah I was crapping myself for a while. But the gear is pretty good - you can get lots of #1-#2 RPs and other small wires in.

I'm glad you think the fear was justified :)

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
There are 41 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints