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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Niblo Boulders - Cooleman Ridge - Canberra

8:49:40 AM
On 15/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>Speaking of thread drift, did you end up going to Niblo?

Not really. Between the weather being a little warm Sunday and my sister bringing her kids over for dinner meant I only got time to walk up to the main boulders and have a look around really. Oh, and rediscover that I still suck at mantling... Would've been good if I'd had a little longer and someone else there who knew there way around.

I did notice that thecrag guide topos haven't updated cleanly.

If I go here: the overview topo has a couple of 1s and all the numbers are different to if I look at the topo directly here:

I had the same issue with the Black Hill guide and the support guys said the bug was fixed but maybe they only update the Black Hill one?
One Day Hero
12:11:42 PM
On 11/03/2011 grangrump wrote:
>If you're bouldering at the Cooleman Court outcrop, well...
>Oh for some decent suburban bouldering.

So......guess where I first learned to climb? :)
One Day Hero
12:51:08 PM
I had a look at that link, with the obsessive recording of every 2.5m high non-line..........either the grades are wrong or boulderers are getting softer. I've never owned a pad, and apparently can flash V6 (above a "dangerous landing"?!?)

My opinion of boulderers just went down another notch!

Hey dave, what grade do you give the steep black arete at Red Rocks? (the only worthwhile boulder there)...........done without a pad, of course
1:05:09 PM
On 15/03/2011 davidn wrote:

>The stuff on the ridge is good for weaksauce people like me though. Heck,
>it's even got two completely chipped V8s.

Forgive me for contributing to the drift, but I have a question on this point. I try very hard to understand peoples motivation and points of view. Especially when they are contrary to my own. For the life of me I have no comprehension of what motivates someone to chip a problem. It makes no sense at all to me. This bothers me.

Would anyone who has chipped a route care to enlighten me? I won't judge. I just want to understand.
One Day Hero
1:34:16 PM
Sure, I'll try to help. I attempted to chip a hold on those boulders when I was 19.......who would have thought that granite is so hard? You can't do much with a masonary hammer and chisel. Man, I was beating the shit out of the rock but to this day, I can't hold the edge I created...........Chris Webb pulled on it though.

#1- Proper chipping is more difficult than its made out to be. The good guys are artists, I can almost guarantee that you've pulled on chips (on famous routes) and not known about it.

#2- The only thing worse than poxy choss is blank, poxy choss.......totally useless to everyone! If you ever go to the Cooleman Ridge boulders you'll understand that chipping them was not really significant environmental vandalism, nor were future generations robbed of classic V18''s the same deal with The Hole at Norton Summit. The only options were; blank skanky hole, or chipped skanky hole.

#3- A grade 30, which features an ugly 2 move V9 (on injurious holds) at the second bolt, then sustained, classic gr 22 climbing for 30m after it.............will never get ascents! Anyone strong enough to do the boulder will be put off by the trivial stuff afterwards, or the chance of snapping tendons for a no star tick. However, enhance 2 holds, and you have a mega-classic 23 which people queue for.

#4- be careful about damning people for this crime, I reckon a fair proportion of your climbing heros might have been guilty at one time or another

One Day Hero
1:46:05 PM
On 15/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>Yes, I think the grades for the ridge are soft. They were input by a
>few different people based on the CCA guide. Downgrade away.

>Anyone who wastes their time photographing, describing, and interwebing those sort of boulders, has already failed my laugh test.

>However, if you can climb 27 it doesn't seem unreasonable that you could
>flash V6

Here's the thing which I find wierd................on the 27's I've tried (long and asthetic) the cruxs are probably only V2. So, why can't all these V8 bouldering dudes just stroll up hard routes?

>Haven't done the arete, so I couldn't say. I have been defeated a number
>of times by the rising river -

Can't even commit to swimming across the river unless you have a posse of spotters, eh?
One Day Hero
1:51:57 PM
On 15/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>Out of curiousity - is that the edge on the V8 traverse?

Nah, its on this poxy steep triangle at the Horse Paddock Blocks...........had pockets drilled by the original dude, I thought they were insufficient and added an edge. Turns out I just couldn't get the bastard big enough for my weak fingers..............pretty much turned me off chipping and bouldering!
One Day Hero
12:23:38 AM
On 15/03/2011 davidn wrote:
> They also seem to prefer climbing unlovely
>things with great moves to gorgeous looking lines that climb on mank and

Thats funny, I thought boulderers liked ugly non-lines because their main motivation for climbing is narcissism? Isn't the rock merely an apparatus for ego stroking?.........."does this move make my bicep look big?"

Jeez, I wish all those beautiful lines on Taipan actually had good rock and moves! Its so deceptive, once you get up close its total choss!
10:14:30 AM
this is more than a bit OT, but it is also about the ACT so.....

is Mt Corree worth visiting?... are the bolts old and rubbish? will my 2wd get up the hill? am i gonna get baked by the sun? im in Bungendore for the weekend and wanna climb something, dont have any trad gear, dont have a pad, is there a better place to go sport climbing?
10:25:15 AM
Mt Corree is good. Last time I went there we parked half way up the hill in a 2wd. Been to the top in a 2wd before as well. About a 1/2 hour walk from there to crag, quite pleasant, its a nice place. Bolts are pretty good. Climbing is good. That said if I was in Bungendore I'd be heading to the Black Range.
10:32:58 AM
It's worth a day. There's quite a few good climbs in the 19-23 range, mostly on Wind wall.

The bolts are generally fine, but there are a few dubious looking home-made hangers still around.

Your 2wd will probably not get up the hill. Last time I was there (a few months ago) it was severely eroded and probably too hard for most 4wd. The road to the first gate is fine and the walk up from there about 30 minutes.

I think the routes at Red Rocks are more interesting, but you might have to swim to get there ...

10:44:11 AM
Talk about epic from Bungendore!! I like Mt Coree but there is no way I would drive from Bungendore to get there. Also, who says you need a pad to go bouldering?? You just have to use your head more and there are plenty of low ball boulders you could step off if it all gets too much. If I had the choice between a 20-30 min drive to some of the most pleasant granite bouldering in Australia and a 2 hour drive followed by a 20 minute uphill walk to climb the only 6 routes worth it on Wind Wall and around the corner at Mt Coree then I would opt for the former. Don't know about the comment that there are ~5 years left in the bolts at Corree. Going by ACT bolting standards those guys still have the price tags on them in comparison to most other areas.

Another area worth considering closer to Bungendore is Nerriga. Vulture wall etc are worth a look.

10:50:27 AM
Wingello is about 1.5hrs away too..with a 15min walk in for a 2wd....ODH will show you around he loves the place.

But im confused I thought we were talking bouldering locations?
11:29:34 AM
On 18/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>On 18/03/2011 cruze wrote:
>> Don't know about the comment
>>that there are ~5 years left in the bolts at Corree. Going by ACT bolting
>>standards those guys still have the price tags on them in comparison
>>most other areas.

The Coree bolts seem to be rusting quicker than other areas in the ACT. I'm not sure if this is because its a wetter area or the combo of mild steel bolts and stainless hangers. Unless the hangers are loose I think you can fall on them with confidence. There are plenty of them so there is usually at least two between you and the deck. Some of the chain anchors look pretty ordinary but are probably bomber. Maybe.
11:36:59 AM
On 18/03/2011 Estey wrote:
>The Coree bolts seem to be rusting quicker than other areas in the ACT.
It would be interesting to compare those placed before vs after the fire in 2003 which REALLY scorched Coree.

3:29:25 PM
Do the C.C.A have a rebolting fund?

3:44:56 PM
By "trad areas", I take it, you mean Booroomba.


Do you know what has been rebolted there?

4:07:00 PM
OK. I don't think of Gibraltar as a trad area but it's a good place to rebolt, for sure.
6:54:37 PM
On 18/03/2011 wallwombat wrote:
>Do the C.C.A have a rebolting fund?

Yes. Donations welcome I'm sure.

In terms of work done there is slow and steady progress. Gibraltar is 90% complete. There has been sporadic work on the Ridge mainly at the Belfry and a bit at the Cloisters and Legoland.

Work has started at Booroomba, mainly on the South Buttress. Heard a rumour of a rap route down the Prow and DBBs added to some of the routes on the North Buttress.
One Day Hero
9:34:54 PM
On 18/03/2011 Estey wrote:
>Yes. Donations welcome I'm sure.
>Work has started at Booroomba, mainly on the South Buttress. Heard a rumour
>of a rap route down the Prow and DBBs added to some of the routes on the
>North Buttress.

Actually, you'll be hard pressed to find a bad bolt on a good route at Booroomba these days. Most of the old stuff has been replaced by the CCA. The ones that are left are generally alone in the middle of nowhere, i.e. the easiest way to replace them is to climb the route with the second carrying a drill. There are also a few old bolts on poxy, shit routes, no-one could be stuffed replacing them since they'll never get's getting done bit by bit, won't take much longer as there were never many bolts in the first place.

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There are 63 messages in this topic.


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