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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Pharos (General) Back Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Bolt on last pitch of Judgement Day??

ajfclark
9/03/2011
10:53:38 AM
The bolts a lot higher than the nut though isn't it? So the gear's (almost) above you rather than being at you feet?

jezza
9/03/2011
11:07:20 AM
>The bolts a lot higher than the nut though isn't it? So the gear's (almost)
>above you rather than being at you feet?
Correct.

>You said yourself that the gear is bomber - so how is clipping another bit of bomber gear changing the grade?
Easier to clip a bolt than set gear here, irrespective of how bomber the gear ends up being.
kieranl
9/03/2011
11:16:14 AM
On 8/03/2011 jezza wrote:
>... With the old pin, and the shiny
>ring bolt, the last pitch of Judgement Day is now basically a sport route.
Only if you're a sport climber who blindly trusts fixed gear. Old pegs at Arapiles are rarely bomber gear.
Anyway, there's no point keeping on whingeing about it here. Go and talk to Ingvar if you think it should be moved.

cruze
9/03/2011
11:22:54 AM
...or just remove it yourself. Ingvar didn't ask you whether he could put it in, I don't see why his opinion as to whether it stays counts for any more than anyone elses.

nmonteith
9/03/2011
11:23:10 AM
On 9/03/2011 jezza wrote:
>Easier to clip a bolt than set gear here, irrespective of how bomber the
>gear ends up being.

But it looks like you need to do an extra move or two to reach the bolt!
Wendy
9/03/2011
11:26:40 AM
On 9/03/2011 jezza wrote:
>>The bolts a lot higher than the nut though isn't it? So the gear's (almost)
>>above you rather than being at you feet?
>Correct.
>
>>You said yourself that the gear is bomber - so how is clipping another
>bit of bomber gear changing the grade?
>Easier to clip a bolt than set gear here, irrespective of how bomber the
>gear ends up being.

How much easier can it be then grabbing any of the large wires on your rack and lobbing it in that slot (which is the gear in the photo)? Which I imagine even if you were heading for the bolt (which i still think is quite blatantly not on route) you would still want to do before doing the move up. Hence you're just making more work for yourself by heading to the bolt. There are plenty of routes around where if you want to wander up, left, right, down, around the corner, you can find a bolt to clip. Take the start of Pearls before Swine. You can scare yourself silly heading straight up to the roof, or you can climb up on the left, clip the first bolt on Ceila or what ever that 28 thingy is called, climb back around and meander on up. You can clip the bolt on follow your nose from DKTFCDTP. You could clip the one on indoctrination from claw. the list goes on. All with varying degrees of avoiding the actual climb.
kieranl
9/03/2011
12:06:59 PM
On 9/03/2011 cruze wrote:
>...or just remove it yourself. Ingvar didn't ask you whether he could put
>it in, I don't see why his opinion as to whether it stays counts for any
>more than anyone elses.
Because if the bolt is going to be moved I would prefer Ingvar to do it. There's a number of reasons for that but probably the most important is that Ingvar is meticulous and would move the bolt with minimum damage.
I agree with Wendy though, it's not actually on Judgement Day, it's a distinct variant, so let's start calling it that. then people know that they have the option.
gfdonc
9/03/2011
12:38:00 PM
tnd had me at "get a life".

jezza
9/03/2011
1:06:20 PM
I think it's much easier to do the extra move and clip the bolt, especially 'cause you're on that nice ledge. But that's just my opinion (and the other people I climbed it with). It's not the point though. People are going to see that bolt, and the chalk, and they'll do the climb that way, for better, or for worse.

Perhaps the bolt should've been placed a metre or so higher? 'Course you wouldn't be able to clip it from the ledge then, which is probably why Ingvar placed it there.

On 9/03/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>tnd had me at "get a life".

My head explodes with the irony.....
widewetandslippery
9/03/2011
1:14:52 PM
jezza is your head a pipe bomb?
twig
9/03/2011
2:02:46 PM
I'm with Wendy, whilst leading the climbing and staying low i never even saw the bolt until i had moved up and right into the final diagonal crack leading up right.
Wendy
9/03/2011
3:37:41 PM
On 9/03/2011 jezza wrote:
>I think it's much easier to do the extra move and clip the bolt, especially
>'cause you're on that nice ledge. But that's just my opinion (and the
>other people I climbed it with). It's not the point though. People are
>going to see that bolt, and the chalk, and they'll do the climb that way,
>for better, or for worse.

Why? Does the route description say "traverse R until you see a bolt nearly 2m above you, climb up to clip that, climb down to traverse line again then resume traverse and up strenuous crack"? It says "traverse r and up strenuous crack". Anyone capable of following the route description would be aware that climbing up before the crack to clip a bolt is not on the route. Whether they choose to do that or not is entirely up to them.

>
>Perhaps the bolt should've been placed a metre or so higher? 'Course
>you wouldn't be able to clip it from the ledge then, which is probably
>why Ingvar placed it there.

And maybe possibly because there's a grade 28 crux above it and in a metres time you would be (a) quite run out and (b) in a shtful place to clip.
rolsen1
9/03/2011
4:42:46 PM
On 9/03/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>Looking at the photo above, reading the guide and the topo, my guess is
>the same as yours: that's the bolt on Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death
>(28). Maybe that's what the name is about? You should ask Ingvar...

Or he just likes the Dead Kennedys?
JDB
9/03/2011
4:55:15 PM
jezza, your post has come 'like a bolt out of the blue'

jezza
9/03/2011
6:36:08 PM
On 9/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Why? Does the route description say "traverse R until you see a bolt
>nearly 2m above you, climb up to clip that, climb down to traverse line
>again then resume traverse and up strenuous crack"? It says "traverse
>r and up strenuous crack". Anyone capable of following the route description
>would be aware that climbing up before the crack to clip a bolt is not
>on the route. Whether they choose to do that or not is entirely up to them.

Look at the photo on page 1. See the crack at the climber's right feet? It's diagonal!! I thought that was what the guide was talking about. So did my leader the other time. And, you don't climb back down after clipping the bolt. Neither of us went out of our way, we just followed a line and the chalk.

I'm thrilled to have been part of creating a new variant of a *** classic. I'm going to call it 'Judgement Day (Get a Life Variant) 18'.

Wendy
9/03/2011
7:39:54 PM
On 9/03/2011 jezza wrote:

>
>Look at the photo on page 1. See the crack at the climber's right feet?
> It's diagonal!! I thought that was what the guide was talking about.
> So did my leader the other time.

That's beneath the traverse line! That's where Shivers comes up, and thus where I came into JD. And still had no inclination to continue straight up the closed shallow corner with no crack that GMC goes up instead stepped r to the much more obvious crack that JD goes up.

And, you don't climb back down after
>clipping the bolt. Neither of us went out of our way, we just followed
>a line and the chalk.
>
Why didn't you continue following the line and the chalk all the way up GMC?

Nottobetaken
9/03/2011
9:00:12 PM

>Why didn't you continue following the line and the chalk all the way up
>GMC?
Indeed... There's another bolt up there. It would've lowered the grade to a mere 17!
One Day Hero
9/03/2011
10:47:15 PM
I reckon that if your new squeeze job requires a bolt which is clipped whilst standing on the existing trad route, it ought to be a bloody reachy clip. Pretty sure that I could touch this bolt while still on route...........or is there another one higher up that you can clip from 2nd Coming?

Anyway, these bolts aren't a major shocker, just probably coulda been done a bit better

jezza
10/03/2011
10:22:25 AM
On 9/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>I'm going to go find a 35 and put bolts in every 20 cm. That should mean
>all the moves will go free and without resting on bolts at grade 10, max.

This quote, and that picture on page 1 has inspired me. When I'm next on the back of the Pharos, I'm bringing some bolts and a tin of white paint. I'll bolt the crap out of the One True Line of JD, and paint the bolts white so the route ends up looking a bit like that picture on page 1. That way, people will know which way to go, and the route should go at grade -1. People don't have to clip the bolts if they don't want to.

I'll put in a mat on the ledge that says (small font) 'JD leaders! You're off route - proceed 50cm downwards. Do not be tempted to climb the grade 28 route above!'

nmonteith
10/03/2011
10:34:37 AM
Judgment Day is just a filler girdle traverse crossing a bunch of 'proper' climbs anyway.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
There are 55 messages in this topic.

 

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