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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Windjammer Wall - Hype!

nmonteith
21/11/2005
1:18:36 PM
Ok kids... i know you've been looking for a new crag to nest those little crimpers onto. How about a
25m high wall of excellent edges, pockets and horizontals that is reminiscent of the best of the Blue
Mountains? How about 15 routes between grades 16 and 26 - with a high concentration in the 23s and
24s? Does good bolts, rap anchors and less than a 30minutes walk-in sound appealing?

Welcome to Windjammer! It is a crag more than ten years old - but long forgotton and strangely
ignored in the Tempest/Mentz guide. Possibly Kierans and Noddys finest hour?

PDF Guide is here...
http://www.neilshaulbag.com/guides/pdf/windjammer.pdf

Hype photos can be found here:
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/980066/1/45215491

simey
21/11/2005
2:32:04 PM
On 21/11/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>Welcome to Windjammer! It is a crag more than ten years old - but long forgotton and strangely ignored in the Simey/Mentz guide.

I think the guide you are referring to is the Mentz/Tempest guide (not Simey/Mentz).

I can't remember exactly why we left it out. We had heard good reports and certainly discussed its inclusion. I'm guessing that if the cliff had a few starred routes under grade 20 we would definitely have included it.

Good to hear that the quality routes are definitely that.

nmonteith
21/11/2005
3:35:43 PM
On 21/11/2005 simey wrote:
>I think the guide you are referring to is the Mentz/Tempest guide (not
>Simey/Mentz).

Opps.
kieranl
21/11/2005
8:02:43 PM
On 21/11/2005 simey wrote:
> ... I'm guessing that if the cliff had
>a few starred routes under grade 20 we would definitely have included it.
>
Gee, Taipan was lucky to squeak in.

Hawkman
27/11/2005
4:54:25 PM
i really enjoyed this wall. i even managed to tick a couple of routes there on a very low energy day.

would it be quicker and easier to walk in from the bottom (ie where the track to the campsite crosses the road) rather than over flat rock? just noticed that it was quite visible from the road back to camp but am not familar with the walking track location so might not be

nmonteith
28/11/2005
9:51:00 AM
It would be a bit of a bush bash from the road - as the walking track runs parallel to the road but never
actually crosses it!
WM
28/11/2005
8:27:50 PM
but you're right Steve - with a path straight out to the road it would be much shorter and flatter...
kieranl
29/11/2005
9:00:11 AM
Wouldn't be very diplomatic creating a new track in this location.

shiltz
29/11/2005
10:00:56 AM
No, I think the parks guys would be quite unhappy. Its not that far to walk anyway.

Hawkman
29/11/2005
10:03:23 AM
i wasn't suggesting a new track just wondering if the existing walking track crossed the road
kieranl
29/11/2005
12:07:34 PM
The track does cross the road but not until near Stapylton campground. I think it's a bit further but it is flatter than Flat Rock!

nmonteith
29/11/2005
12:12:19 PM
The track crosses Pohlners Rd about 100m south of its intersection with Plantation Rd. It is several
kilometres south of Windjammer Wall. Might be quicker?
duglash
30/04/2006
7:57:45 PM
Been to Windjammer twice recently and yep it's great - really nice short routes on beautiful rock, pumpy
first-joint edges.

I thought Call of the Sea was three star and maybe a soft touch?

Talk of Mad Women was fantastic, pumpy to lead.

Spice Islands was good (maybe one star?) but marred by one of those infuriating out of reach clips
combined with a large loose flake that you have to stand on and the ground on the cards from 5m or so.
The "big runout" at the top referred to in the guide is on easy ground and you could sling a jug if you
wanted.

Lord Jim was really good (maybe two star?) apart from the reachy crimpy start - an amazing balancy
move in the middle, and quality finish. May be even better (and a grade easier) starting to the r? (may
need a bolt)


There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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