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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 93
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Carrots At Buffalo
Wendy
13/01/2011
9:55:50 AM
On 13/01/2011 egosan wrote:
>On 13/01/2011 tnd wrote:
>
>>Doesn't change the fact that you don't have to clip anything you don't
>>want to.
>
>Doesn't change the fact that your argument is the shite argument of nancys
>who would see everything grid bolted in some misguided quest to protect
>the children.

Except that as far as I can remember, the proponents of letting the carrot rest in piece so far are highly experienced and capable trad climbers.

I'm getting a bit sick of the argument that rings will bring crowds. I almost never climb at crowded cliffs. There are plenty of quiet corners, some of them even affixed with ring bolts in the world. I have never seen more than 1 other party at VD land, only occasionally more than that at the gallery, no one at Ruined Castle, Malcolm is probably the only person you'll find at the lost world.
egosan
13/01/2011
10:12:00 AM
On 13/01/2011 Wendy wrote:

>Except that as far as I can remember, the proponents of letting the carrot
>rest in [peace] so far are highly experienced and capable trad climbers.

I was referring to tnd's just don't clip the thing argument, Wendy.

Regarding your point about the character of the proponents of fixed hangers. While I respect the wisdom of their experience, they clearly believe that the correct answer is the "safer" answer. As I said before safe is not some absolute that can be measured. Maybe I am not sufficiently worried about my own mortality, but that is my choice. Safe is safe enough. It could be that in a few years time, when I am closer to my end, I will be more conservative. Then I might look back at this and think I was an idiot. Or maybe not.

The anti-carrot lobby is experienced, wise and ,in the case of the few that I have climbed with, good company. This doesn't make them right.
Wendy
13/01/2011
10:15:14 AM
I can find you plenty of things to scare yourself on without carrots Sol and I won't make any case for making them safer - they just are what they are ...

BTW, do you play Scrabble? i'm bored and it's raining and there fűckall more we can do about the flooding. I can put the coffee machine on.
egosan
13/01/2011
10:18:19 AM
Put the machine on, I will be by in a bit. I will bring the cribbage too.

Any of the nati crowd cribbage players?
Wendy
13/01/2011
10:26:33 AM
haven't played cribbage since i left home - that would be 20 years or so ... might need some reminding

PS invite Andy over too if he's home

PPS oh dear, what have i done, just filled my house with strongly opinionated men ... be worse than chockstone
One Day Hero
13/01/2011
12:00:31 PM
On 13/01/2011 Wendy wrote:
>
>I'm getting a bit sick of the argument that rings will bring crowds.
>I almost never climb at crowded cliffs. There are plenty of quiet corners,
>some of them even affixed with ring bolts in the world. I have never seen
>more than 1 other party at VD land, only occasionally more than that at
>the gallery, no one at Ruined Castle, Malcolm is probably the only person
>you'll find at the lost world.

That's because you need rings + quality to bring crowds. All the steel in the world won't alter the fact that VD land is a giant smegpile....you won't see me there because there is a lifetime of good routes to be done in the gramps and none of them are at that poxy cliff.

It's really hard to be a climber when you have good taste..........life would be much easier if I were like Wendy, and found satisfaction in climbing any old chossy shit.
ClimbingNT
13/01/2011
12:03:28 PM
I thought climbing was about getting out there and having a go? I didnt realise some people were so picky when it came to which routes they prefer to climb...
One Day Hero
13/01/2011
12:27:14 PM
Some people think eating is about getting all the nutrients your body needs (and nothing more).........I had a mate who used to boil his steaks!!!!

I don't dislike you for being unable to tell the difference between good crags and NT choss, I pity you
kieranl
13/01/2011
12:57:05 PM
On 13/01/2011 One Day Hero wrote:

>I don't dislike you for being unable to tell the difference between good
>crags and NT choss, I pity you
Pity? ODH must be getting soft.

tnd
13/01/2011
2:07:48 PM
He definitely would have cried when he watched Brokeback Mountain.
ClimbingNT
13/01/2011
2:12:06 PM
ODH - If you had to choose between climbing or not climbing, which would you choose?

Not everyone has the luxury to have legendary climbs at their fingertips.

I am the kind of person that would prefer to get out there and climb a few routes, regardless to where I am situated, rather than sitting at home wishing I had better.

Also, just because I currently live in the NT doesn’t mean I only climb in the NT.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13/01/2011
10:34:17 PM
On 11/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>I think the bolt on Pintle was chopped in the bolting wars of the early 70s.

Peter Watling placed it many moons ago on the first ascent, and as I understand the situation, I gather he chopped it last summer; ... at least he told me then that he intended doing so, so I assume he did, as I found the stub flush with the rock when I looked for it last w/end.
One Day Hero
14/01/2011
12:25:07 AM
On 13/01/2011 davidn wrote:
>Psst - I heard he cried while watching Bridges of Madison County.

Ah Clint......what happened to you? You used to be cool before you started hanging out with Meryl fukcin Streep!

Funny story. I was actually driving solo through Nebraska a few years ago and, quite by chance, found myself in Madison County. I hadn't seen the film, but figured that the bridges must be worth seeing if Clint had named a movie after them.

So, I made a detour and followed the tourist signs to find.............a little wooden bridge with a farkin roof on it.........der, what was I expecting? I mighta been hoping that Mr. Eastwood would be hanging around, doing bridge maintainence or something.

Anyway, that story isn't funny at all. The moral is, don't ever go to see the bridges of Madison farkin County.........and don't watch any Clint Eastwood flicks post-Dirty Harry 3/Eiger Sanction, you'll lose faith in another hero
One Day Hero
14/01/2011
12:31:45 AM
On 13/01/2011 ClimbingNT wrote:
>ODH - If you had to choose between climbing or not climbing, which would
>you choose?
>
Dude, chill. If you're gonna set em up like that, you can't blame me for taking the opportunity.

I actually ventured up to the Territory for a little climbing sojourn in November.......maybe I should write a trip report?
One Day Hero
14/01/2011
12:39:59 AM
On 13/01/2011 tnd wrote:
>He definitely would have cried when he watched Brokeback Mountain.

The best bit about that film was the way it dealt with a really important issue.
kieranl
14/01/2011
8:46:58 AM
On 13/01/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 11/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>>I think the bolt on Pintle was chopped in the bolting wars of the early
>70s.
>
>Peter Watling placed it many moons ago on the first ascent, and as I understand
>the situation, I gather he chopped it last summer; ... at least he told
>me then that he intended doing so, so I assume he did, as I found the stub
>flush with the rock when I looked for it last w/end.
I did the Pintle so often during the 70s and 80s that you would think that I could definitely remember if the bolt was there or not. I'm fairly sure the bolt has not been there since I started climbing but I won't swear to it.
rolsen1
14/01/2011
9:00:44 AM
I can't remember a bolt either, climber it 5 years ago and then again last year. Could be wrong

ajfclark
14/01/2011
9:05:35 AM
The bolt was placed on the FA. You could ask Bangla for the full story, but my slightly bleary memory of the tale is that he wore the wrong boots and couldn't get enough friction to complete what is now the LHV. He leaned out right and placed a bolt, put some ets on it and swug into the huge crack above the belay. The move directly into the crack was later freed at grade 14... So the bolt wasn't directly on either variant.
kieranl
14/01/2011
9:14:19 AM
I know where the bolt was. I think it was just a chopped-off stub since I've been climbing.

gordoste
14/01/2011
4:25:21 PM
On 14/01/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>The bolt was placed on the FA. You could ask Bangla for the full story,
>but my slightly bleary memory of the tale is that he wore the wrong boots
>and couldn't get enough friction to complete what is now the LHV. He leaned
>out right and placed a bolt, put some ets on it and swug into the huge
>crack above the belay. The move directly into the crack was later freed
>at grade 14... So the bolt wasn't directly on either variant.

Horrible horrible grade 14.

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 93
There are 93 messages in this topic.

 

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