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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ]

Author

Cracks at buffalo

dimpet

27/01/2011
3:12:23 PM

Im looking for some short (10-30m) single pitch jam cracks at buffalo upto grade 18.
Preferably 1 or 2 BD cam sized. Any recommendations?

Failing that, anything with plenty of gear?

cruze

27/01/2011
3:14:32 PM

Beowulf (18) and top pitch of Initiation (~15 - easy to rap into).

dimpet

27/01/2011
3:31:54 PM

Can't seam to find Initiation in the guide book. What area is it in?

cruze

27/01/2011
3:41:47 PM

The Hump. It is a four (?) pitch grade 18. You could rap into the gully at the beginning of the last pitch.

billk

27/01/2011
4:02:23 PM

On 27/01/2011 cruze wrote:
>The Hump. It is a four (?) pitch grade 18. You could rap into the gully
>at the beginning of the last pitch.

The Initiation?

cruze

27/01/2011
4:05:44 PM

Yeah - don't think we are adding much value now. Just to be clear: The Initiation @ The Hump. Top pitch - by that I mean the last pitch which is a top pitch. The grade of the pitch may be 15.

Anyway, after all that, if you are only interested in cracks don't bother about The Hump. Mostly slabs.

kieranl

27/01/2011
4:27:24 PM

Top pitch of Wicked Solitaire (18) South Side
Oscar (?11/12) Wall of China
There's a steep hand-crack at Chalwell's Gallery (18ish) by Nic Taylor - can't remember the name.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

27/01/2011
6:35:31 PM

>Im looking for some short (10-30m) single pitch jam cracks at buffalo upto grade 18.
Preferably 1 or 2 BD cam sized. Any recommendations?

>Failing that, anything with plenty of gear?

As well as the above suggestions you could also try...

'Corner Crack' and also 'Crack and Corner' - The Castle.
1st pitch of The Pintle - The Horn.
1st pitch of Country Road - Oval area.
Devilled Cream - Sth side access track.
2nd pitch of Maharajah - Cathedral.
... then drop back down and do the 2nd pitch of Sultan, back to the same topout.
Toprope Lift Girls Lament (Gd 21) but worth it for a finger crack experience. - Oval Area.

Those came to mind readily, but I am sure there are many others.

There are 8 messages in this topic.