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Crag & Route Beta

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Beeline (13) - Mt.Difficult

darkpromenade

21-Oct-2005
12:19:29 PM

My climbing partner and I are taking a friend on his first multi-pitch climb in the next few weeks. I was woundering about the suitability of Beeline (13) at Mt. Difficult. In particular, the size and safety of each of the belay ledges. Any other beta/ advice would be appreciated.

Long time lurker, first time poster!


nmonteith

21-Oct-2005
12:32:04 PM

I don't think that route is very popular - Queenbee (15) gets 5 times the amount of traffic according to
thecrag.com

darkpromenade

21-Oct-2005
12:40:42 PM

I guess I was looking for a route that he will be very comfortable on and thought Beeline might be it.

kieranl

21-Oct-2005
12:41:29 PM

I have vague memories of a wide crack on Beeline. Queen Bee has a cruxy traverse which might be a bit too exciting for a first multi-pitch.
Epomandios (something like that), grade 10 ) is probably a better option.


master of drung

21-Oct-2005
1:06:33 PM

i 2nd epimandias as an excellent 1st multipich route with good belay ledges

darkpromenade

21-Oct-2005
1:45:10 PM

We are going to take him up Mixed Climb (12) on the Saturday (combining the first and second pitches) and were looking for something shorter for the Sunday.


The Elk

21-Oct-2005
1:55:36 PM

from memory, the belay ledges were cosy for 2 people on Beeline, 3 people might be pushing it.
I'm pretty sure the last pitch was a bit exposed and the belay ledge quite uncomfortable.

darkpromenade

21-Oct-2005
1:57:01 PM

Cheers...... looks like it's a no-go.


billk

21-Oct-2005
2:02:50 PM

Have you thought about Bundaleer for Sunday? Scarab and The Minch are in that grade range.

darkpromenade

21-Oct-2005
2:19:21 PM

I was thinking of Scarab as another option....... from memory the first belay is small, but we can ferry him across to the second without any problems.


billk

21-Oct-2005
2:26:09 PM

Frog (Gr 16, 3 pitches) has roomy belays if you are happy to lead up something more challenging. There are a couple of delicate stemmy moves in the middle of pitch two, which are full value for Gr 16.

I'd recommend staying off Gerontian and probably Basilisk if your wanting to give a pleasant introduction to multipitching.

adrian

21-Oct-2005
5:28:27 PM

On 21/10/2005 kieranl wrote:
>I have vague memories of a wide crack on Beeline. Queen Bee has a cruxy
>traverse which might be a bit too exciting for a first multi-pitch.
>Epomandios (something like that), grade 10 ) is probably a better option.

Cruxy traverse indeed! I fell off the start of that traverse after a hold snapped off and took a fairly big pendelum. Wasn't the most enjoyable experience for me, and I'm not sure how a beginner will enjoy it.

darkpromenade

21-Oct-2005
6:52:39 PM

I think Epaminondas is a better choice.......... thank you everyone for your advice.


Rupert

21-Oct-2005
8:30:03 PM

Yep epaminondas is excellent at the grade - so is the nearby Monkey Man at grade 14.


JamesMc

21-Oct-2005
8:40:33 PM

Agree, Epaminiondas is a better route than Beeline. Not so sure about Mixed Climb though, in fact I reckon it's crap. Much better to do Debutant if your friend can handle grade 14. Or possibly Threadneedle at Stapylton, though I admit I haven't done it.

James Mc

darkpromenade

21-Oct-2005
10:11:34 PM

Good ledges on Monkey Man?........ the guidbook seems to suggest the first belay will be ok, but the second is referred to as a "gangway ledge"??


Rupert

22-Oct-2005
9:17:00 AM

I don't remember any 'cosy' ledges at all, in fact I think they are all pretty big, The slab pitch at the bottom is good and the top pitch is a hoot. JamesMc might be able to confirm this.


red

23-Oct-2005
12:55:18 PM

Rupert...

shouldn't you be thinking about other things than sitting on ledges with mates....

ps I'm on leave in 3 weeks so I should start thinking about that


Rupert

23-Oct-2005
3:01:18 PM

Yep - I should :) Busted fully.


JamesMc

23-Oct-2005
10:01:17 PM

I don't remember anything about the first ledge on Monkey Man, but I did it in a group of 3 so if it was small I would have remembered it. The second ledge is big.

James Mc

There are 22 messages in this topic.