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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Melbourne (General) (General) (General) [ Melbourne Guide ] 

Author
Heidelberg Road Bridge

Ben_E
12/12/2010
9:42:14 PM
Sorry if this has already been covered in other threads, but...

Anyone know what the approx grade is of the route with ~6 carrots on the Heidelberg Road Bridge, Merri Creek (upstream side, just above the bike path)? It actually looked like it may be an OK "climb", and the amount of chalk (or was it just pigeon guano?) suggested it must see a bit of traffic.

Anything else on the bridge worth doing (the climb with 3 U bolts and a lower off at the top on the other side looked a tad beyond me)?

Cheers,

Ben
MichaelOR
12/12/2010
10:19:13 PM
Forget the routes, relative rubbish .... the long bouldering traverse on the west side is far more worthwhile. Depending on your skill level, you can either use the large breaks/horizontals between the blocks as well as the holds, incorporate the top of the blocks, or you can limit yourself to only the holds on the face of the bluestone blocks. A vertical challenge, crimpy and with slopes! Great endurance training and quite technical. It will teach you body position.
If you only use the holds on the face holds on the blocks, and no finger/hand jambs in the slots, it is quite difficult. Probably around 23 left to right, bit harder R to L as the crux is at the left end. A continuous lap R to L and back again is a challenge worth the effort and training!
And it works the feet.
Michael
patto
13/12/2010
7:31:49 AM
Were you there with a rope on Thursday afternoon/evening? I'm pretty sure I saw a rope&bag tied off up the top. I would have stopped and said hi but I was late meeting a friend for a lift to the Altona gym.

Ben_E
13/12/2010
8:03:38 AM
Hi Patto. Nope, I wasn't there on Thu, though I was a bit further away on the bike path on the glue up near Dight's.

Thanks MichaelOR, will definitely be heading down with the climbing shoes to check out the bouldering one evening over the next week or so. I assume the West wall is the one with the bike path running along it, rather than this being some anus-puckering death&mutilation traverse over the arch and creek that you're talking? Even with your description of the routes as rubbish the siren song of "Up" (rather than across) is still calling me, though...
Cam McKenzie
13/12/2010
9:06:18 AM
I would say that the carrot bolt route is about grade 18 if you stay out left. The face to the left of the corner (to the right of the carrots) is about 15 or so and can be lead on gear and then corner is about 10 or so and can be lead on gear.

The prickle bush at the top of the corner is a bastard though.

There's also some bolts on the other side (and this side has a lower off which is nice), which allow you to climb the arete or the face to the left of it (arete is nice, about 15 maybe, and the face is not so nice and maybe 18).

The bouldering traverse is very good.
dalai
13/12/2010
9:15:45 AM
On 12/12/2010 Ben_E wrote:
>Anything else on the bridge worth doing (the climb with 3 U bolts and
>a lower off at the top on the other side looked a tad beyond me)?

Someone has bolted the other side? Nice!
widewetandslippery
13/12/2010
9:24:55 AM
On these blue stone block things have you ever tried using only sidepulls and underclings?

Ben_E
13/12/2010
10:39:16 AM
Thanks for that info, Cam. Sounds like some of those are well worth a shot some evening.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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