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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Spurt Wall - full guide info required

nmonteith
18/10/2005
9:45:57 AM
Hi guys,

Can anyone with more experience of Spurt Wall help fill in the many blanks for this crag! There is 24
routes on the crag and lots of missing info. Please post grades, heights, FA info, quality
ratings etc!

1: Kaa Pitch 1 25m 23 [Mixed]
A gnarly crux move.
Starts on very chalked wall below Mr Joshua.
Left leading flake to horizontal. Traverse left to end (FH) then up and right with difficulty to large ledge.
Belay off trad gear. Scramble down off left end of this ledge (roped).
Descent: Walk-off
Toprope: No
Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood 01-1992

2: Venom Pitch 1 (?) 13m 24 [Mixed]
Doesn't get much traffic as it requires a bit of trad. Allegedly pretty thin and nasty.
Bouldery start (FH) to ledge. Unwards up wall and ramp (FH). Trad belay and then scramble down off left
end of this ledge (roped)
Descent: Walk-off
Toprope: No
Possibly Steve Monks 1998

3: Naughty Tickle Town 15m 28* [Mixed]
A wonder that you have to place gear! From near the R-hand end of the bouldering traverse latch two big,
non-possessive dynos past a FH. Continue past a #2 cam (such boldness!) to second FH. Step right to
join with Unknown. Run it out to final FH above rooflet and finish at chain.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Richard Heap 12-1996

4: Academia 15m 31 [Sport]
Two cruxy bouldery moves to start then eases considerably. Stuart Wyithe originally bolted this thinking it
was only going to be grade 26!
Starts 2m right of Naughty Tickle Time. Three FHss then step left to join up with Naughty Tickle Time. 5
FHs all up.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Dave Jones 1998

5: Cripple Nipple 17m 30* [Sport]
Another absorbing step wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge
sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this
dyno crux by a big traverse right.
8 bolts all up. Lower-off the double bolts at fifth FH for grade 30 version. Extension past ugly bolt ladder is
Nathans hard project.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Nathan Hoette 2002

6: Tyranny 13m 29** [Sport]
Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Gordon Poultney 1998

7: Who's A Naughty Boy? 17m 32** [Sport]
The scene of one of the biggest dummy spits in Australian climbing history. Cruelly stolen from Gordy by
a roving Garth is his youthful prime. In fit of vengence Gordy then prompty chipped off the vital holds,
removed the bolts and covered the rest of the holds with sunscreen! Nathan Hoette managed to repeat it
anyway. This is the extension of Tyranny past a further two FHs to rap chain.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Equipped & Un-Equipped by Gordon Poultney. First Free Ascent by Garth Miller and then re-established
after Gordys tantrum by Nathan Hoette. 1998

8: Tyranny Into Lifestyling 17m 32** [Sport]
The hardest climbing on Spurt Wall. Splits after 3rd bolt of Tyranny and finishes up Lifestyling.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Nathan Hoette

9: Lifestyling 18m 31** [Sport]
Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line
of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux is several
metres above bolt. 6 bolts.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Julian Saunders 2000

10: Not Too Bad 15m 28* [Sport]
Underated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some
people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was
added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Simon Carter 1994

11: Nathan Project 1 17m 0 [Sport]
Another desperate project by the H man. Five cheapskate 90' hangers. Another long slopy wall climb.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Equipped and worked by Nathan Hoette

12: Menstrual As Anything Direct Start 17m 25** [Sport]
V4 boulder problem start which adds an extra star to Menstrual. Up tricky pockets to wild dyno to
horizontal. Traverse right across this (FH) and join into the original route at second bolt. Use a long slign
on this to avoid massive rope drag. This was an established highball boulder problem before being retro-
bolted.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Jake Bresnehan 2004

13: Menstrual As Anything 17m 24* [Sport]
Pretty snappy. Bridge up pathetic tree to start or alternatively boulder in from the right to pockets (grade
25 and easier if you are tall). Traverse left past bolt with missing hanger then up sloping wall with a slight
left trend past five bolts. Be careful of exciting move at the finish which has claimed a few broken bones
from distracted belayers.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Donna Bridge 1994

14: Simon Ozolins Project (open) 16m 0 [Sport]
Route squeezed behind tree with annoying ledge in the middle. Six FH's and lower-off. Any takers?
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Equipped by Simon Ozolins mid 90s

15: Dial-A-Lama 17m 24** [Sport]
Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular. Once had a reputaion for
silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Martin Lama 1995

16: Gary's Project 15m 0 [Sport]
Project. Another bolting (and glueing?) controversy. The dodgy SIKA hold will be removed shortly by the
ethics police. Five FHs on a slight left trending line. Worked by Nathan Hoette.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Equipped by Gary Phillips

17: Weak Boy 10m 26 [Sport]
Short and hard. Leave Unknown 6 at third bolt and breaks right along short flake (FH) to lower-off in the
middle of nowhere.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Gary Phillips

18: Fabios Route 15m 30** [Sport]
An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing
locks!). Bouldery traverse start then sustained postive crimps to top. 6 FH's up scoopy line. More bad bolt
placements, one requires un-clipping the quickdraw, doing the move, then re-placing the draw afterwards!
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Nic Sellars (UK) 1998

19: Spurt Girl 13m 28** [Sport]
Very hard single crux move. Campus slopy rails. One of the best 'lines' at Spurt. Four FH's. Nick Sellers
tried to rename this route after some obscure Baghdad Cafe cake. The name didn't stick.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Nic Sellars (UK) 1998

20: This Spurting Life 13m 26* [Sport]
Soft tick if you can crimp. Bouldery climbing from start to finish. Three FH's.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Stuart Wyithe 1994

21: Spurting Mildly 12m 22* [Sport]
Warmup route of the crag. Fun scoopy moves and a nice pump. Three RB's.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Simon Ozolins 0019

The wall takes a serious turn for the worse at this point. It becomes sandy and very short.

22: Lord Of The Jerks 10m 23 [Sport]
Easy tick -more like a boolted boulder problem.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Simon Ozolins 1994

23: Wide World Of Spurtz 10m 25 [Sport]
Alledgedly has some good moves. The start is totally desperate, and the bolt placements are not ideal.
Stick clip the first FH. Three bolts.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Stuart Wyithe 1994

24: Pussy Galore 10m 22 [Sport]
Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Stuart Wyithe 1994

25: I'd Rather Be Wanking 9m 23 [Sport]
Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low.
Descent: Lower-off
Toprope: No
Simon Ozolins 1994

Mick
18/10/2005
10:13:02 AM
Neil, number 4 sounds like Academia

Mike

manacubus
18/10/2005
10:38:40 AM
Is it really called "Who's A Naughty Boy Then?" Every time I've seen the name it's been "Who's A Naughty Boy?"

nmonteith
18/10/2005
10:39:09 AM
I just updated the info - Phil Blunson supplied lots of quality beta. There is still much info missing. Can
anyone tell me the FA name/date for Spurt Girl & Fabios Route? Does anyone have Gary Phillips email
address/phone number?
climbingjac
18/10/2005
12:16:58 PM
I think Fabio's route might be Julian's.....

phil_nev
18/10/2005
12:23:30 PM
Spurt girl and fabios route were done by Nic Sellars (UK) in 1998 i think. Both the routes were actualy originaly named after cakes from cafe bagdad.
kp
18/10/2005
12:29:54 PM
Phil just stole my post .... i think Gary Phillips 26 is called Weak Boy.

phil_nev
18/10/2005
12:32:35 PM
Hey kp, still recycling comments??

nmonteith
18/10/2005
12:41:30 PM
Updated!
garry
18/10/2005
12:47:46 PM
garry here what do you need to know about

nmonteith
18/10/2005
3:02:30 PM
Hey Garry! I saw you at Spurt on friday (i was the one cursing up on World Party pitch 3).

Take a look at the draft guide above and feel free to add comments regarding anything you can think of.
Most of it is just hearsay! Can you confirm the names and FFA dates of any of your routes?

alrob
18/10/2005
4:51:13 PM
wasn't fabios route named after marty (dalai) because it was once his project, back when he sported the long "fabio" hair?
James
18/10/2005
5:40:53 PM
apparently the Menstral Direct Start was originally a boulder problem before it was bolted (& written up as
the Direct).

nmonteith
20/10/2005
1:05:27 PM
More updates have been added after talking with Jules. Still missing info for a few routes. Anyone?
dalai
3/11/2005
5:59:39 PM
13. I climbed the start sans tree or a dyno many years ago starting slightly right of the first bolt. A bit bouldery and definitely no dyno with no real change to the grade (maybe soft 25 if any)

14. Was a Simon Ozolins project not mine.

15. Can't be an exciting finish without the original runout...

nmonteith
3/11/2005
8:40:44 PM
thanks - info has been updated!

nmonteith
11/11/2005
1:35:57 PM
-bump -
Dave, can you cross-check this info please! (top of the topic)

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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