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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Cape Woolamai (General) (General) [ Woolamai Guide | Images ] 

Climbing at Cape Woolamai

9:37:09 AM
We're thinking of taking a look at Cape Woolamai this weekend. It seems like Big Cliff has the most climbing and a few routes stand out in the guide. Does anyone have any recommendations?

10:54:37 AM
Ive enjoyed both routes I have done there, and would recommend them both. One was the rightmost route (looking at the cliff) which from memory was called Barnacle Bill. It was 17 or 18, and had a cruisy & juggy start with a bit more difficully towards the top. I didnt lead it, but recall that it might have been a little run out in places???

The second route ive done there was called 'The Plunge'. It was 16 or 17, and a good testing route at that grade. An easy start up the face to join a big chossy corner, where you get to marvel at the old original bolt which is a massivly corroded carrot. You can arrange natural pro, but none of it is super inspiring (due to the rock at that point in the corner being shockingly sandy). You then bravely leave the corner and swing up left around a bulge, before face climbing up rightwards to a very welcome bomber cam. The last 10 or 20 metres of the route (as with all routes) is a sandy hillside.

I really liked The Plunge, but im a fan of atmospheric & chossy routes! If you dont like atmospheric, chossy routes, then the Big Cliff isnt the place to go.

2:07:35 PM
Thanks Owen. Does the sandy hillside offer a decent belay or do I need to carry star pickets and a sledge hammer ;-)

3:35:17 PM
I recommend a rack of 6 star pickets, and if your a gear freak upgrade the sledge for one of those fancy double handled picket drivers!

If you hunt around on the hillside you can find gear.

3:40:43 PM
Threading nesting holes made by the sea birds can be good idea. Watch out for the venomous snakes
though - they also like hanging out in those holes!

master of drung
5:42:31 PM
I once tried to access big cliff with minimal information and couldn't get there without squashing lots of mutton birds which i wasn't comfortable with, i did however have fun on & around the pinnacles, looseish but awsome place.

5:49:18 PM
Pinnacles is very fun. It is a bit loose - but very easy climbing. Awesome summits as you do the

11:17:26 AM
I am heading out that way in a few weekends. Any one have any info/tips on Pirate Pete?

My real name is Pete and I've told my formost climbing partner back home that I was going to get a pic of it for him. I was also going to dress up a bit and get an eye patch and plastic sword to put in my mouth as I climbed =)

4:07:51 PM
I reckon serious competence and experience and dont fall on any gear and you will have a ball at woolies!

8:27:51 PM
Got down to Woolamai around lunch time. Walked up past Big Cliff. Walked back when we realised. We believe that Big Cliff is the one opposite the sea caves. The guide book description could be better. I think we found the descent path. Looked at this and at the clouds. Walked back to the Pinnacles. Roped up to climb a route on Pulpit Rock. Climbed up a little, pulled some rock off, placed a worthless cam, climbed a little further, no prospect of worthwhile gear, climbed down again. Decided to abandon the ropes and explore the Pinnacles. Went partway out the Pinnacles Traverse, pulled some more rock off, decided to go surfing instead...
Some of the rock looked pretty good. Big Cliff is probably worth a return visit, the descent route is very eroded though. A rap in would make a lot more sense.
3:01:49 PM
(bump) Planning to investigate this seaside super-crag with rack+rope on the weekend. Would do the Pinnacle Traverse for the experience then check into anything else that was worthwhile. Anyone else want to add their 2c worth?

3:04:15 PM
Lectin !
... and if you do it please get a photo for Thorkild.

5:01:07 PM
Read Baxters latest rant in this months Rock (letters section). He gives some hot tips on why my article
on Melbourne's Best was crappola regarding Woolamai...
5:44:15 PM
just go whale watching instead, much better idea than climbing that choss
9:10:26 PM
I went to the big cliff many years ago and got totally freaked out, I remember being able to scratch hand holds into the rock and only trusted cams plugged deep. The belay on top was almost non existant, I think I found a wire in some rock between the dirt, also sticking my feet down some holes. Maybe we choose the wrong route! It was also really windy and communication was a problem.

Good luck. Richard
11:07:36 AM
OK, well we found several good reasons not to do the Pinnacle Traverse on Saturday, in fact an unlimited number of reasons, arriving at about 12 second intervals:

Yes, that spray is reaching the top of the pinnacle - about 20m above the water! The foam was washing the first 5-6m of the route. Scuba gear recommended for the belayer.

Went and did The Plunge (16) at the Big Cliff instead. An "experience" for sure.

11:50:40 AM
Awesome Steve! You should have bought your surfboard....

There are 17 messages in this topic.


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