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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Organ Pipes (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Stentor Topo on ACA

ajfclark
11-Nov-2010
10:29:56 AM
Was just looking at the ACA site and the topo for the routes off the top of Piccolo pinnacle in the Organ Pipes Gully section seems a little wrong to me:


Stentor's last pitch is described:
P3 (15m, 16) Up greenish streak up middle of steep left wall. A bloody good pitch.
and I'm pretty sure when I led it I headed up the wall somewhere between the 47 and 48. There's no way I climbed a 22 though...

Is it just the camera angle throwing me off or should Stentor be a lot further left in the topo?
kieranl
11-Nov-2010
10:50:48 AM
Yes, it's wrong. Stentor goes pretty much where 47 (Private Detective) is shown as going. Private Detective and 46 should start a couple of metres further left. S stands, I think for "Skin Flute" which is a route of Shaggy's that should probably get a separate entry rather than being buried in "What Is carborised" even though it's sort of a direct finish to the direct start of "What Is carborised".

ajfclark
11-Nov-2010
10:55:56 AM
The caption of the photo should be fixed then. It says S is for the top pitch of Stentor.
kieranl
25-Nov-2010
10:00:03 PM
That's more like it.
However, looking at the topos for Mudeye, I think the finish is wrong. The last couple of metres shown in the topo is not where it finishes. It's actually just to the left through the roof of the cave.
I've top-roped the finish as shown and it's desperate and hard to protect. Grades harder than 15. The topo in the Select guide (Mentz/Tempest) shows the route finishing in the cave which fits the description in that guide.
The finish through the roof was quite fun but avoidable. I contemplated putting a bolt in the right-hand finish but couldn't be bothered.

ajfclark
26-Nov-2010
8:59:22 AM
Louise's guide also describes Mudeye "The flake leading to the cave" which seems to match the line shown in the Select guide to me. I don't get how that says to do the roof.

ajfclark
26-Nov-2010
10:28:20 AM
I did it one Easter because I wanted something that was close to camp and with a description like "Strenuous and awkward if you're into that kind of thing" I figured no one else would be on it. I didn't think it was that bad. I didn't finished up the arÍte, maybe I should go back and do it again some time...
kieranl
26-Nov-2010
3:11:00 PM
On 26/11/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>I didn't finished up the arÍte, maybe I should go back and do
>it again some time...
I wouldn't rush.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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