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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
2nd pitch of Gently Mine/Pig Iron Slaughter, Boyce

Superstu
17/10/2010
10:40:18 PM
Tried to do the second pitch to Gently Mine today. From the anchors atop first pitch, headed out right up the boulder, then stepped left following carrots onto some orange rock then to an interesting exposed pull onto the wall. So now I'm a bit left of the belay up about 2-3m. Tried going further straight up but found it awkward pumpy and lacking any pro. Spied some carrots out left, so gingerly downclimbed and traversed and found two old bash in carrots. Clipped those and then went up the wall clipping a few more carrots and the odd sling. Lots of fragile holds, a bit unnerving. Didn't feel 13. After re-reading the 2010 guide it looks like we did the second "dodgy" pitch of Pig Iron Slaughter. If so, then where on earth does the 2nd pitch of Gently Mine go ?? Do the routes cross?
another dave
18/10/2010
11:07:39 AM
Yes the routes do cross.
Gently mine goes onto the right side of the arete and pig iron slaughter goes to the left side.

I made the same mistake except I made some other sucker lead it and get the nasty surprise. Needless to say we only had 4 bolt plates

Superstu
18/10/2010
11:21:43 AM
Ah thanks for that. I will write to Simon to add it to the next guide.



mikepatt
18/10/2010
11:55:35 AM
mmm... brings back memories of many years ago. As it probably says in the guide 'most poeople rap off after pitch1'...

I also had a bit of an epic on Snoopy due to a very ambiguous description (in the SRC book)

Quite a few of the old Boyce multipitch climbs are 'interesting' and have had more than there fair share of epics and accidents...

Superstu
18/10/2010
1:59:25 PM
Yeah Boyce is the place for an epic / adventure and still only 10 mins from the car...

Normally I wouldn't bother with such fine tuning of route descriptions but in this case the route is recommended as a beginners first trad lead in the guide so probably not the best route to omit a bit of info and lure folks into the never never!

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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