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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Urinal Wall - Saddle (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Author
What is this Thing Called Ffrodnork?
Dave C
30/09/2005
10:22:01 PM
I noticed that Mikl's rather gnarly old carrot on this route at Trackside Wall has been replaced in recent years. Has anybody actually repeated it and if so, how hard did you find it?

PS The reason I ask is that Andrew Lindblade and I tried it back in 1988 and Andrew snapped off two crystals up by the bolt that did seem rather crucial. We thought it a bit stiff for 21 even before the holds came off.

Rupert
1/10/2005
9:21:05 AM
We had an unsuccessful 'play' on this about 5 years ago and it felt very hard for the grade.
SBW
2/10/2005
6:02:27 PM
onsighted it back in ' 95 , has a grade of 23 on it . thought it was an easy tick for 23 so probably 22

Kingers
2/10/2005
6:31:29 PM
Yes, it is 22 or 23.
Dave C
2/10/2005
7:20:25 PM
Cheers people. Thought it was a bit harder than 21 but we were obviously just too crap back then. Might stick it on my hit list for next year just to clean up an old ghost (there aren't many things under 24 in the Youies I haven't done but this is one.)

alrob
2/10/2005
8:29:15 PM
did it a couple of years ago, not knowing what it was. thought 22/23.

Rupert
2/10/2005
10:35:45 PM
Went up and had a look at Drugs over London today at the overlap, anybody climbed it?
Dave C
3/10/2005
3:19:22 AM
On 2/10/2005 Rupert wrote:
>Went up and had a look at Drugs over London today at the overlap, anybody
>climbed it?

Finally did DOL back in 92 on a visit. One of the best routes in the park IMHO. I was thinking in English grades at the time and thought E4 6a/6b which makes it 23-ish I think. The crux is a fun sequence getting past the second bolt to reach the upper flake. I seem to recall having problems sorting my feet out to make the final 'udge' to reach the flake.

Rupert
3/10/2005
9:18:42 AM
Yep you can at least visualise the moves up to the second bolt and then it looks like it blanks out a bit. I can see why a strong 'udge' would be needed :)

alrob
3/10/2005
6:44:37 PM
On 2/10/2005 Rupert wrote:
>Went up and had a look at Drugs over London today at the overlap, anybody
>climbed it?

yeah, another great route ,and its overhanging! quite nervracking pulling over the top too with only the bolts clipped. you could probably get some gear in at the top, but i didn't hang around long enough to look

nmonteith
3/10/2005
6:52:57 PM
You can get some bomber cams in the finish flake/trench.
KP
3/10/2005
6:59:47 PM
i agree with neilo. Not E4, that's for sure !

alrob
3/10/2005
8:03:29 PM
cams at the you yangs? that would entail thoughts of climbing cracks......who would do such an insane thing!
Dave C
3/10/2005
8:14:09 PM
You can get a good wire in that top flake (I had something like a #6 rock in if I recall correctly.)

BTW, did you move well to the left before pulling onto the top? It's much easier out their.

alrob
3/10/2005
8:22:15 PM
On 3/10/2005 Stuck in UK wrote:
>BTW, did you move well to the left before pulling onto the top? It's much
>easier out their.

can't remember exactly, as it was a few years ago, bit it was pretty much straight up i think
gfdonc
3/10/2005
10:04:27 PM
Re: DOL
(sigh) sadly I was not able to finish this project after putting the bolts in .. I seem to remember a small crimper/shallow pocket up left to go for, after the flake finishes.

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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