Rock Master Publications:
Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
It is a traverse so you need a second who can follow you and clean the gear. The rap slings are ugly
but bomber. Soem say the crux of this route is 22 - its a tough single move right at the bolt and the
rest is cruisy but airy.
>World Party 1st Pitch 23m 21
All trad with a traverse at the start so you migth need a seconder again. No hard single move, but very
awkard and balancy sections with gera at your feet. Do this one in winter when the friction is good.
Bring lot sof slings to extend runner aroudn the bulges. New double bolt lower-of fon ledge.
>Anaconda 1st Pitch 20m 22
Not very nice. Two bolts, and not much in the way of trad. The second botl is in a stupid place (just
after the hidous slopy crux). I didn't enjoy this! There is a nice rap chain though.
>Kaa 1st Pitch 25m 23
This is a Spurt Wall route, but with only two bolts. A nails harde crimpy crux and a LONG reach to a
pocket. Not the greatest pitch around - and certainly not very Taipaneqse. It finishes on a ledge with
no bolt anchor. Yuo need trad for the anchor and then you have to downclimb (roped up) a ledge
system on the left. A lot of effort for a zero star pitch.
>Constrictor 20m 21
Starts just right of WorldParty. It only has a few bolts and quite a bit of wiggly stuff. It has a very
crimpy crux at the start, then lots of delicate slabby weirdness. It has a chain lower-off and is easy to
>Seventh Bannana first pitch 20m 23
Classic, fun, cruisy for the grade and a bolt at the crux. The best intro to Taipan!
And the full list of sub-23 Taipan routes (from thecrag.com):
Mission Over Tokyo Gunigalg Gully Connection [8, 50 m ]
Mission Over Tokyo * [18, 55 m ]
Atomic Tadpole * [20!, 55 m ]
Tokyo Connection [18, 45 m ]
Tokyo Rose * [18, 50 m ]
+Ukrainian Geranium ** [20, 45 m ]
+Dance of Life Dinosaurs Don't Dino Connection * [23 M1, 40 m ]
+The Mint * [21, 42 m ]
The Seventh Banana Pitch 1 ** [23, 20 m ]
Sirocco Pitch 1 * [21, 20 m ]
The Seventh Pillar Left Han... *** [22, 46 m ]
The Seventh Pillar *** [23!, 118 m ]
+The Seventh Pillar Right Ha... ** [21, 14 m ]
Lawrence of Arabia ** [21, 100 m ]
World Party Pitch 1 * [21, 20 m ]
+Constrictor [21, 18 m ]
+Anaconda Pitch 1 [22, 17 m ]
Kaa Pitch 1 [23, 20 m ]
> Mission Over Tokyo * [18, 55 m ]
> Atomic Tadpole * [20!, 55 m ]
> Tokyo Connection [18, 45 m ]
> Tokyo Rose * [18, 50 m ]
> +Ukrainian Geranium ** [20, 45 m ]
These are not 'really' Taipan Wall IMHO. They are all fun multipitch trad that top out on a big ledge and then you have an awesome 50m rap straight off Taipan proper for descent.
> +Dance of Life Dinosaurs Don't Dino Connection * [23 M1, 40 m ]
Very high admin for this route! The moves and positions and rock quality are A1 though. Teh aid move at the start requires a confident leader and second. Tshi must be doen in two pitches. Double 50m ropes required for descent off rap anchor.
> +The Mint * [21, 42 m ]
Really fun and exciting traverse that requires second that leads as well as leader (?!). Raps off anchors on Sirroco or Seventh Banana Pitch 1.
> The Seventh Pillar Left Han... *** [22, 46 m ]
I havn't done this - but is has a reputation for total scare city. A big 8m un-protetable traverse is the crux! Again, get a solid second for this. There is some sort of manky lower-off at the end of the traverse.
> The Seventh Pillar *** [23!, 118 m ]
Aid skills required. Very high admin!
> +The Seventh Pillar Right Ha... ** [21, 14 m ]
You have to do the 23 pitch to get to this!
> Lawrence of Arabia ** [21, 100 m ]
This is really really fun. Lots of jamming, runouts and an exciting down traverse crux. It is done in two long pitches starting at Seventh Pilalr and ending up near the start of Serpetine. Bring lots of cams!
On 21/08/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>> The Seventh Pillar Left Han... *** [22, 46 m ]
>I havn't done this - but is has a reputation for total scare city. A big
>8m un-protetable traverse is the crux! Again, get a solid second for this.
>There is some sort of manky lower-off at the end of the traverse.
Crux is just as you leave the security of the flake and head out right. But if 23 is your limit, with the runout and exposure on the final moves to the break where you can finally place gear again!!
Has anyone ever attempted Scud Buster? Or know anything about it? For some odd reason the description in the guidebook intrigues me. Have a vague recollection last time I was there (1.5 years ago so WAY too long) of looking at it from World Party or something and thinking it looked very unloved and intangible.
>On 21/08/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>>> The Seventh Pillar Left Han... *** [22, 46 m ]
>>I havn't done this - but is has a reputation for total scare city. A
>>8m un-protetable traverse is the crux! Again, get a solid second for
Second gets to do the crux after unclipping the bolt! I was lucky in having a kind leader (Kim Carrigan) who let me leave a krab and tie-off for a back-rope. When I fell off (stuffed from cleaning wires yarded into the expanding flake) I got to learn a new climbing move, manteling onto my back-rope to regain the holds. On the positive side, the second should be OK if they fall without a backrope. I saw Enga fall seconding and she took a good swing but was then able to reach a line of holds to climb back up.