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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles Grotto Wall / Voodo Gully (General) Voodo Buttress [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Arapiles hidden gems
2:32:46 PM
You missed a pretty obvious one...

Trench Warfare (24)

4:29:31 PM
Much as I tried to trench it, Trench Warfare isn't really trenchy. I did it with Steve Monks, who monkied
along the slopers beneath the flared diaganol, to hang out for longer than humanly possible under the final
roof before finally falling off it. On face holds. And it was his 2nd go on it. That may suggest it's quite
hard for the grade. I hate slopers, so I desperately tried to crawl into the trench, but it's really shallow,
very flared and barely a seam at the back, so I got a couple of crappy jams, some marginal head and
knee bars, some sort of leg hook along the slopers, and eventually fell off too. The gear is also pretty
poor, I wouldn't rush out and do it again.
4:44:08 PM
There's also Fennel (10) - this squeeze chimney was so tight, Clive took his harness off and tied the
rope around his waist to squeeze through it. He told me there was no way I was getting my girllie
sized butt through it, let alone wearing harness, dragging rope and carrying big gear. I did have
moments of wondering whether I could move any direction at all in it!
Dire Straits (19) Locksmith 22 - trenches next to Bulger,
2 off the Oasis (dunes area), names escaping me at the moment
Electra 18
lightfingered 22 - although the reacy face moves before the crack are far harder than the trench
Dingo 18 - shaggy somehow faeclimbed it though
in lieu 19 - once graded 12 apparently!

Damn, I'm being dragged away from happy memories by real life again and must run ...

5:14:04 PM
Hey wendy, wheres this Fennel climb, gotta try it, damn, see what you've done to me, I actually kinda like trenches now! Oh, and Dingo was before you showed me 'the' way!
7:30:50 PM
I've never done Trench Warfare. I was just going off the name. But it's probably more deserving than many of the routes listed.

Wendy, you're right about some of the good crack struggles left off the list, particularly Electra.

And Shaggy, if you want to know where Fennel is, then look at the Dog Wall topo on page 93 of the Arapiles Select Guide (that's the guide that Wendy fails to acknowledge despite the fact that it used by about 90% of climbers). Fennel is quite literally the cliff-splitting line dividing the two buttresses. Not surprsingly, not one person has complained that we left it out of the guide.

7:37:06 PM
Honourable mentions should go to Eclipse 20, the horizontal trench that you have to traverse if you want to put a top-rope on Tjuringa, and "Pritchard The Almost Unstoppable New Route Machine" 18 which is worth doing for the name alone and is even better value if you can con someone else into leading it.
Trench Warfare has K.Lindorff's name on it. Why doesn't it surprise me that it is hard and difficult to protect.
And what is Aardvark doing in a list of crack climbs?

8:37:49 PM
Modern climbers have reverse vision these days. Major 'cliff splitters' are ignored and the faces are
climbed instead.
8:08:48 AM
That list wasn't meant to be definitive - it was just a training list for anything that had a crack on it (hence the inclusion of Aardvark and Cobwebs for example - both not crack lines at all - but definitely lines that take a crack weakness).
9:29:29 PM
Hey Simey, I don't own a copy of your guide book to refer to, but if you'd like to donate one to the
cause, I will do so in future ...

Kieren, thanks, you've given me a new mission ... I've never even seen pritchard the etcetc

West coast dogma and Manx will amuse many a 14 leader,
crucifixtion, 16 - I fell off that one way back when I could still climb faces
Retardation 15
Candy 0, 19
Lucifer, 13
Aristocrat, 18
Jackal 18
or you could try syrinx by the original chimney, or the eight via the direct start

Less trenchy but still awesome cracks, Not Just a pretty face, 23, Stormalong, 20, Starless and Bible
black, 22, White heat, 22, Frenzy 21, Great White Hope 17, that 16 up the slabby wall behind voodoo

I did really try to include a range of grades and styles in my original list, it wasn't meant to be just
trenches ...

1:11:11 PM
Trenches: There's also that 24 on Tiger Wall, Marbuck (not the variant) I believe. Haven't done it, too scared.

Unsung classics: Does Caught In A Crossfire (21) get any stars ? 'tis a lichen covered gem.
11:58:02 AM
Hey mods maybe this bit could be moved to a new topic "Arapiles cracks and trenches"?

Not all will agree (Wendy), but maybe not *all* trenches are hidden gems?

1:10:48 PM
Having it all in one thread makes sense to me and continues the tradition of maintaining a close relationship between a hidden gem and a sandbag..


 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
There are 32 messages in this topic.


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