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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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9:09:51 AM
>On 20/05/2010 stugang wrote:
>We bought a sedan on vanc island for 800 bucks climbed all over canada and down through rockies, california and into mexico cragging all the way. Finished off with a month or two driving all over mexico (not climbig in mexico). When we flew out we just gave the car to some mexican friends who drove us to the airport.

3 months + in a sedan.
the freedom of the road (check!)
comfort (no)
place to make a cuppa when its raining (no)
live in it in icy canadian winter? (noooooo)
purchase price: $800 (sweet!)
Resale value:.....(....ahem.....)
total cost: $1000 - $1200 (sweet!)

3 months + in a van
the freedom of the road (check!)
comfort (yes)
kitchen/lounge (yesss!)
live in it in winter (um, yep..)
space for friends/drowned rats/orgy participants (cha ching!)
purchase price: ~$3000 (ouch!)
kitting out: ~$150 (if it cost more than this you aint no dirtbag -go book into the Hilton, money bags!)
insurance: ~$300-$500
resale: at least 70% of pp (if you are good its 120%)
total cost: ~$1100 in the red to ~$700 in the black.
Plus!!!: extra bonus STD's (woo hoo!)

6:04:24 PM
Another vote for Jasper, I lived there for 7 months and it was freaking awesome. Very cool laid back country town feel (esp in winter) with some stunning rock and ice climbing and great bouldering too, all within a bike ride from the centre of town.

Jasper Park Lodge is a good place to base yourself too if you want to work for a while (recommended), tho it's a bit of a party town is deffo a better feel and you'll meet more locals.

If you get there make sure you get up some of the loooooooong trad rock routes around Mt Edith Cavell and up behind Pyramid Mtn, sick sick sick.

I would give Banff a miss...nice place to visit but super touristy, good to spend a few days there tho - good shopping - Rude Boys is awesome!

Don't even think of Lake Louise, it's a one horse strip mall (well, the mountain is fun at least - good park with some seriously big tables and massive super pipe).

Canmore is awesome too, with a great community of climbers and riders, loads of cool folk to meet there, tho it's getting pretty busy there too.

I always wanted to live in Kamloops for a while too, dunno about the climbing but it's got some of the best MTB in the world :-D

Golden is sick in winter and also has some great MTB in summer, tho go there in winter for sure coz CPR ridge has some of the steepest frontcountry lines and deepest snow around, take a powder board!

Get over to the east coast too, Halifax and surrounds is amazing and has some stunning climbing and bouldering, highly recommended!
12:15:08 PM
8:20:19 AM

I'm heading up to find some work in Canada (Revelstoke?) this winter, maybe staying on through spring/summer. This thread's been awesome for info (thanks), but I've got a couple of questions--if anyone's got any info that'd be great...

- It sounds like the rock season's pretty exclusively summer? Are there any periods that snow and ice are a no-go in the rockies (due to avalanche risk, etc...)??
- I'll check out some local forums, ask around, etc. for climbing partners, but has anyone had any specific luck with a website/club/gym/whatever finding people to climb with in Canada?


5:12:12 PM
Talked to some locals around Skaha who claim to climb rock all year round on the right days... but I think you need to be pretty keen Nov - March and really pick your days.

For the rockies checkout this

Pretty good summer this year (we got here late April), had pretty reliable climbing around Van/Squam from May to Oct, and Skaha at the start of October was still a great temperature.

Drop me line if you're looking to climb around Van or Squamish next summer and are stuck for partners

We certainly aren't regretting moving here... just getting all our touring gear sorted now, getting ice guidebooks etc... looking forward to winter. And next summer making it out to the Bugs...

6:34:23 PM
On 6/11/2012 alg wrote:

>I'm heading up to find some work in Canada (Revelstoke?) this winter,

I just came back from a year living in Revelstoke!
Winter is frickin awesome, I hope you're already there if you want to find a job fast.... After early-mid november it can be a huge waiting game as everyones already hired for the season.

There can be big avy danger for ice climbs in canada... Ice climbs are usually in gullies, so have all the snowfall funneling into them...

If you are living in Revy and ski or board, you probably won't get too much ice climbing in, It's too warm in Revy, and The roads are REALLY scary to drive along around there... You'll see what I mean. We left Revy once all winter due to road conditions.

In summer it's a totally different story, It's pretty easy to find work in may/early june after the shitty shoulder season once the hill closes and theres still too much snow lying around to do anything...

I went there thinking winter would be awesome (it was), but summer was even better!

About 500 climbs within 20 mins of Revy, mostly closly bolted sport routes 1-15 pitch (mostly 1).
2 hour drive to Skaha which is cool vertical wall crimper climbing, and way more year round than Revy.


p.s. check out the stoke list for houses and jobs.
2:06:10 PM

>- It sounds like the rock season's pretty exclusively summer? Are there
>any periods that snow and ice are a no-go in the rockies (due to avalanche
>risk, etc...)??

avy risk is a big concern, there is always something that is too dangerous to climb. But having said that, there is always something that's safe also. Virtually no-one ice climbs round Revy, there are some routes but usually too much snow hence too much avy risk. The notable exception is Three Valley Gap, in a low snow year or if you know its slid already.
The Rockies are very different snow wise, less snow, colder, more ice climbs below treeline.

If you want to ski more, go to Revelstoke, if you want to climb more in the winter, go to Canmore.

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