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Big cams at Arapiles

PeterM

21-Mar-2010
11:09:00 AM

I am coming from NZ this Easter - intermediate level climber

Is it worth bringing a big cam 150mm?
What climbs can it be used on?
Would it be useful on Watchtower Crack?

patto

21-Mar-2010
1:39:22 PM

You could definately place a big 150mm cam on Watchtower crack. Most people get by with BD cams 3&4 (50-115mm). I carried a BD 3 & 3.5 first time I did it and it was fine. Some people find having the 4 can make it less intimidating though.

I wouldn't bother with a 150mm cam at araps. Unless you are planning a specific climb that requires it.

Winston Smith

21-Mar-2010
3:07:39 PM

On 21/03/2010 PeterM wrote:
>I am coming from NZ this Easter - intermediate level climber
>
>Is it worth bringing a big cam 150mm?
>What climbs can it be used on?
>Would it be useful on Watchtower Crack?
>

Peter,

This time last week I climbed Watchtower Crack. I used both the no. 6 and no. 5 Friends that I was carrying on both of the grade 16 pitches. Smaller gear could have been substituted but the larger cams certainly made placing protection straight forward.

Weather tip: get on it by 8am and off it by 11am and you'll have shade for all four pitches.

freesolo

21-Mar-2010
4:10:07 PM

and if you don't place on watchtower crack, brulga is nearby and justs eats big gear.

timfreddo

21-Mar-2010
5:56:17 PM

I take the (newer) number 5 camalot to araps every time...
It's especially usefull on watchtower crack, where, unless you have a cam this big, your looking at a 3m factor 2 onto one of the scariest belay ledges around, small pittons and rps.
Also usefull on... thats about it...

Mike Bee

21-Mar-2010
6:11:59 PM

On 21/03/2010 timfreddo wrote:
>I take the (newer) number 5 camalot to araps every time...
>Also usefull on... thats about it...

I've found a great slot on Muldoon that takes the #5. There's a million other placements in the same area, but if you have one handy, it goes in quick and solid :)

Richard

21-Mar-2010
8:20:46 PM

On 21/03/2010 timfreddo wrote:
>Also usefull on... thats about it...

Toccata (top of first pitch). Probably good for a 4 or 3 ??

patto

22-Mar-2010
12:30:23 AM

On 21/03/2010 timfreddo wrote:
>I take the (newer) number 5 camalot to araps every time...
>It's especially usefull on watchtower crack, where, unless you have a
>cam this big, your looking at a 3m factor 2 onto one of the scariest belay
>ledges around, small pittons and rps.
>Also usefull on... thats about it...

I'm sure that there is smaller gear lower than 3m off the belay. (Maybe something on the left wall?) Besides those pitons are absolutely bomber these days. Cudos to whoever put them in.

All I know is that I remember stitching the thing up when i had my 3, 3.5 & 4.

ajfclark

22-Mar-2010
7:35:53 AM

On 22/03/2010 patto wrote:
>Cudos to whoever put them in.

That's an interesting contrast compared to the general reaction when they were put in

(It turns out the very first of Simey's posts is containted in that thread... Glad I was using google to find it and not stepping through simey's post history.)

IdratherbeclimbingM9

25-Mar-2010
9:54:15 AM

On 22/03/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>That's an interesting contrast compared to the general reaction when they were put in

>(It turns out the very first of Simey's posts is containted in that thread... Glad I was using google to find it and not stepping through simey's post history.)

Hmm, and interesting too that it is about his placing of some pitons given some of the ~~disparaging~~humourous posts he has made since then. An ironical start for sure...
Re stepping through post history. That can be short circuited by editing the path line at top of screen once the first page is viewed. they come up in lots of 100 with most recent being first, and if looking for early stuff the first page can be skipped to by typing in (simeys case) 1300 instead of 100, since he has 1300+ posts.
~> not that anyone would want to...?
Heh, heh, heh.

ajfclark

25-Mar-2010
11:00:44 AM

I know that, but I didn't realise it was his very first post though... would've been quite slow stepping through them all...

If I can't remember the thread title, http://www.google.com.au/search?q=site:chockstone.org%20[keywords] is my weapon of choice for searching for stuff usually as it's a lot faster than a full text search from the forum is. In this case "simey watchtower pitons" got me to the right thread first go.

B.A. Baracus

25-Mar-2010
3:07:10 PM

Big cam may be useful for beginning of "Death Row" in the Pharos, "Cerberus" in Central Gully Left and "Electra" and "Telemachus" in the Atridae. Maybe you can stick one in "Kama Sutra" but I'm not strong enough to know for sure. At any rate, plugging big cams is fun.Take your monster cams to the neighbouring Grampians and you'll find placements in "Dagon's Temple", "Simpleton", "Clicke Crack"...

There are 12 messages in this topic.