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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Climbing through Asia - Advice Needed
Clumsy Climber
16-Dec-2009
3:05:39 PM
So, I'm about to quit my job and wander through Asia for 6 months rock climbing. At the moment I climb mostly Trad, and some sports. Can anyone tell me if it is worth taking my trad rack? Also is it worth taking a tent or stay in backpackers?

Any advice will be appreciated.

dimpet
16-Dec-2009
3:35:29 PM
In most of asia, accommodation is pretty cheap, probably not worth lugging a tent around.

If your going to thailand, vietnam, china, laos and those kind of places, its prob not worth taking a trad
rack id say.

Eduardo Slabofvic
16-Dec-2009
4:10:36 PM
I've just come back from 3 months in Asia (China, Laos, Thailand). Trad rack is the go in China, take tri cams, as well as wires and cams, as Tris cams are the bomb in limestone. There is plenty of Granite, sandstone, and Quartzite in China as well, which is trad.

You could spend your whole 6 months in China. There is a new Guide book out to climbing in China, which covers alot of new/emerging areas. Feng Shan is the new place to go, but at the moment has only about 10 established routes. If you want to do new routes it would be the place to go, but you would need to go with a partner. Plus most places in China are going to be a bit cold for the next little while.

Laos or specifically Venvieng (not sure of the spelling there) is all sport, but take slings and mallions to leave behind on the anchors, as there are a lot of crap anchors in Laos. Also take some vitamin B.

Having trad gear in Thailand is really only usefull if your going to be doing new routes.

You wont need a tent in any of these places, and I would even recommend against camping in some of these areas, as you would be a sitting duck. The locals who run the accomodation would not look kindly on you.

There may be some camping at White Mountain in Yangshuo in the future, but its not set up yet.





citationx
16-Dec-2009
4:15:13 PM
On 16/12/2009 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>There may be some camping at White Mountain in Yangshuo in the future,
>but its not set up yet.

dunno how you went at white mountain but a couple of days after we visited (october last year) westerners were harrased to provide money to climb there by distant "locals" (from next... town or so) and got so violent as to face an open knife blade towards a tensioned rope that a climber was dangling from...
going by that i wouldn't try camping there anytime soon!

Eduardo Slabofvic
16-Dec-2009
4:20:57 PM
Yeah, there's been a bit of tension, but things are on the improve. There is now the Yangshuo Access Initiative (YAI) that is liaising with the locals. The tensions were between to waring villages over whose crag it was. Some bolts were chopped.

The bolts have been replaced and there is dialogue with the locals.

The Villagers have been chilled out a bit, and the YAI is seeking to lease the paddock at the base of the crag. Toilets have now been built there, and at the Egg. So as I said, maybe in the future, but not now.

billk
16-Dec-2009
4:31:34 PM
On 16/12/2009 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>Laos or specifically Venvieng (not sure of the spelling there) >
>

Could it be Vieng Van (or Vang)?

Vieng (pronounced wiang) means town.

Eduardo Slabofvic
16-Dec-2009
4:53:11 PM
There's loads of new routes going up around Ao Nang
davepalethorpe
16-Dec-2009
4:59:06 PM
>
>dunno how you went at white mountain but a couple of days after we visited
>(october last year) westerners were harrased to provide money to climb
>there by distant "locals" (from next... town or so) and got so violent
>as to face an open knife blade towards a tensioned rope that a climber
>was dangling from...
>going by that i wouldn't try camping there anytime soon!

Amazing how news travels. I was there on that day, and it was a little intimidating (it was the end of April I think). However, I think we really got caught in the middle of a disagreement between local villagers and the local climbing community. They were not really there to harm us, just intimidate us and get us to leave (the whole language barrier really didn't help the situation). It should not put anyone off climbing in the area (although it is always worth checking the current situation, as I believe there have been some problems with access at other crags in the area in the past, eg the egg). On the whole Yangshuo was amazing, and I guess a little more on topic it was all sports climbing. If there, stay with Lilly at "The Climbers Inn", just near China Climb...she was fantastic! And I also wouldn't bother about a tent for the reasons listed above!
davepalethorpe
16-Dec-2009
5:09:12 PM
On 16/12/2009 billk wrote:
>On 16/12/2009 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>Laos or specifically Venvieng (not sure of the spelling there) >
>>
>
>Could it be Vieng Van (or Vang)?
>
>Vieng (pronounced wiang) means town.

Its vang vieng...home of tubing, and hoards of drunk/drug induced tourists!

Eduardo Slabofvic
16-Dec-2009
5:52:00 PM
That's the one.

I wont be going back
NMcKinnon
16-Dec-2009
10:25:41 PM
Asia is big - where in Asia are you going? If your Asia trip includes India then you can look me up in Bangalore. Bring a tent if you like camping while the local village folk stand around staring at you. The climbing is great if you can contend with the killer bees, face eating sloth bears, cobras, thorns, and forest ranger nazi's. Keen for a visit?
Duncan
17-Dec-2009
10:19:54 AM
This may or may not be useful - a new guide to climbing in Taiwan:

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?ref=logo#/RockClimbingTaiwan?ref=mf

Also, I don't know if you were thinking of hesding to Hong Kong, but there's definitely some fun stuff to be done there. Summer is HOT though.
StephanieG
11-Jan-2016
8:02:45 PM
i've tried the fansipan mountain in vietnam, i did my trip for 3 days
climbfan123
25-Jan-2016
7:34:57 PM
Anyone interested in a new climbing site in China who provide professional training at affordable price?
http://www.shivatop.com/
pm me if interested
Jayford4321
25-Jan-2016
8:28:30 PM
>Am I able to do it?
>Certainly you can as long as you can pass health exam ! Now our courses open to those who don't not have mountain climbing experience at all. Look at these young girls, Beside enjoy the marvelous landscape of snow mountains, they've show their courage when facing dangers. Can't you catch up with them?

Eddy here's Ur chance as they R looking 4 girls 2 show courage an play catch up games!

Hi shivastop, do U do train course in Australia?
Whot if ed fail test?
dalai
25-Jan-2016
8:33:29 PM
Hmmm - first post. Smells SPAMMY to me...

Eduardo Slabofvic
25-Jan-2016
10:21:05 PM
Professional training, you say. I wonder how many times they will let you fail before eventually relenting and giving you guiding ticket.

Maybe have one of your mates put the good word in for you again

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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