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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Eastern	Cathedral Range	(General)	(General)	[ Cathedral Guide \| Images ]

Author

New crag at Cathedrals >>> coming soon


nmonteith

26-Nov-2009
9:23:29 AM

On 25/11/2009 dave wrote:
>I'm so disapointed. I liked the idea of bolts made from the stainless
>steel grids stolen from public urinals! haha

Notice I only refereed to Victoria. NSW on the other hand...


IdratherbeclimbingM9

26-Nov-2009
9:52:17 AM

On 25/11/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>From my experience a good deal of the old (bold) routes were driven more
>by a need for cost reduction and laziness rather than an ethical struggle.
>Hand drilling slowed people down - a lot!
>
I have no doubt that, that is partly true nm; however there did, and still does(!) exist, those who actually adhere to a bold (minimal bolts) ethic.

>There is plenty of adventure still out there! 50+ years of trad climbing
>in Australia has meant there is thousands of climbs to do. It will only
>become a thing of the past if people stop climbing these old classic routes.
>
... or if the boldness option is taken away by the new generations of wannabesafe climbers.
☺

climbingnirvana

28-Nov-2009
2:13:28 PM

well neil sounds like you really have put in some hard yards
over the years in regards to bolting good on ya! (no sarcasm).
Hand drilling is still the
only accepted method in yosemite and in my opinion this is a
good thing as it will do exactly what you said,,, Slow people down
a bit.
"if you're going to put up routes and then start picking holes in someone else's practices you'd better
start getting things right."
3 years considering the one crag, 10 odd routes, 9 bolts, group decisions all the way.
I'm pretty sure we're ethicaly sound but hey its all up for interpritation and we're happy to chop
if people feel there are too many bolts or add if too few.
Any way next post will have pics and details.

Fish Boy

29-Nov-2009
1:25:34 PM

On 28/11/2009 climbingnirvana wrote:

>Hand drilling is still the
>only accepted method in yosemite and in my opinion this is a
>good thing as it will do exactly what you said...

Nope, Todd Skinner was power drilling his way up lots of routes in Yose 15 years ago....and then there is everyone else.

You're creating some hype about this new area of yours, it'd better be good...;)

BTW, it is quite easy to run around up there and go climbing and has been for several months. All of the northern crags are untouched and so are the walks up....


davetheyounger

4-Jan-2010
8:50:59 PM

well the Cathedrals are now open its time to spill the beans


Rupert

6-Jan-2010
12:15:34 PM

are they - officially?


ajfclark

6-Jan-2010
12:20:24 PM

From http://www.parkweb.vic.gov.au/1park_display.cfm?park=91 :

Change of Conditions
Cathedral Range State Park was severely affected by the Black Saturday bushfires. 92 per cent of the park, including all the visitor facilities at Sugarloaf Saddle, were burnt.

Most of the park reopened to the public on Friday, 18 December 2009.

Most of the walking tracks are now open. Trail markers, trailhead signage and directional signage are being replaced. Visitors to the park are requested to bring contour maps with them to assist with their walking and climbing visit.

Little Cathedral Track from Neds Saddle to Little Cathedral Peak will remain closed until further notice while extensive alignment works are carried out.

The Friends Nature Trail will be rebuilt and should be re-opened by Easter 2010.
Cooks Mill Heritage area will remain closed while new decking and railing are installed.
Neds Gully, Cooks Mill and Jawbone carparks will reopen. A smaller Sugarloaf carpark will also open. The day visitor area is currently closed and expected to re-open around Easter 2010.

Camping is available at Neds Gully and Cooks Mill. Cooks Mill has sites suitable for a small number of caravans. Camping fees apply and a permit is required for Neds Gully and Cooks Mill campgrounds. The Farmyard has a smaller camping area available.


Pat

24-Jan-2010
10:43:35 PM

Still waiting . . . will the crag be called Simey's Cafe?


JamesMc

25-Jan-2010
6:28:45 PM

Most developers of a new secret crag (or even just a new route) are, to paraprase a great climbing philosopher, "about as objective as a dog around a bitch on heat".

The developers of this crag might think they have some great discovery that we should all be waiting for with baited breath. This might be true, if so I will be pleasantly surprised.

If you want us to share your excitement, publish the routes, and a few photos, and leave a few new routes for others. Otherwise this is the most boring thread that's ever been on Chockstone.

JAM

PS We'll be dissapointed if it's the gorge.

Fish Boy

25-Jan-2010
7:30:36 PM

Too right JAM, all this spray and thumb twiddling has set the bar high.


Pat

17-Feb-2010
5:08:21 PM

My christmas stocking still looks empty. Is this the most elaborate troll in chockie's history?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-Feb-2010
5:10:38 PM

On 17/02/2010 Pat wrote:
>My christmas stocking still looks empty. Is this the most elaborate troll
>in chockie's history?

My vote for that would go to the current pic of the week.
I am surprised the instigator did not let it run longer...


Miguel75

17-Feb-2010
6:55:19 PM

Climbingnirvana you are a charlatan! And a scallywag. Please either expose this new area or repent and
admit your announcement was a not so elaborate hoax...

If on the other hand you're trying to minimise crowds at this Cathedral based nirvana you can tell me and
I promise to forgive, forget and never tell another soul.


ambyeok

17-Feb-2010
11:40:13 PM

With the recent fires it could be anywhere on the brave new swathes of unimaginable scree, let the cat out of the bag I say, my ice/dirt screws are at the ready...

Fish Boy

1-Jan-2011
10:13:29 AM

patto

1-Jan-2011
12:18:29 PM

I want my money back.

Paul

1-Jan-2011
1:08:17 PM

I think this new crag must be a hoax, it was going to be revealed a year ago?

Maybe the developers accidentially re developed an existing area, hence the reluctance to reveal the location.

patchboy

1-Jan-2011
5:46:36 PM

to my understanding this Crag will be in the guide book rock climbs around melbourne will have to wait till then should be out soon book by OSP

dalai

1-Jan-2011
6:49:20 PM

Did OSP pay the new routers for the information? ;-)

Paul

1-Jan-2011
8:22:17 PM

On 1/01/2011 patchboy wrote:
>to my understanding this Crag will be in the guide book rock climbs around
>melbourne will have to wait till then should be out soon book by OSP

Is this to make people have to buy the new book if they want to know about the new routes?

There are 41 messages in this topic.