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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Mt Buffalo Guide \| Images ]

Author

what's a "must have rack" for Mt Buffalo?


Paulie

20-Oct-2009
9:03:43 PM

A huge set of bollocks!


evanbb

20-Oct-2009
9:23:46 PM

On 20/10/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>tape), post photo's of your bloody carcass, then retract
>your bullshit advice?

Come on ODH, you of all people know that Chockstone is here purely for unsubstantiated spray. You're just pissed someone is moving into your territory.

rightarmbad

20-Oct-2009
10:20:04 PM

Maybe somebody that knows the area and can place gear.......Olga


russianSpy

21-Oct-2009
12:20:21 AM

On 20/10/2009 Paulie wrote:
>A huge set of bollocks!

as long as they don't jingle more than the hexes and place just as well =)) you got some I can borrow?

thanks for the replies so far, and especially thanks IdratherbeclimbingM9 for the quite extensive list.
Got tons of bolt plates, a legacy of western australian climbing =)) don't remember seeing any RB til I crossed the Nullabor!

gfdonc, I'm one of those who likes yelling "what?" whilst promising myself I'll bring a set next time. After I retrieve it from whomever I lent it to last.

Helmet is coming with me, not a question. It's bright enough to double up as a location beacon. =)

I'd like to have transportation, and driving down is still an option but I really don't want to. So I'd rather come for longer and just siege an area one at a time having hitched/walked up there in the first place. But that is, of course, a valid point and I do remember it being quite nice and comfy in my car last time.

I was kinda hoping to get away with smaller stuff though. I only own SLCDs up to #3, so thinking of supplementing with a #3,4,5 CAMP Tri-cams, if my wallet allows. Or other people's racks I guess =))


russianSpy

21-Oct-2009
1:11:10 AM

On 20/10/2009 rightarmbad wrote:
>Maybe somebody that knows the area and can place gear.......Olga

or maybe a sense of adventure? =P


IdratherbeclimbingM9

21-Oct-2009
10:48:31 AM

On 20/10/2009 nathor wrote:
>On 20/10/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>Optional items …
>>Helmet.
>
>Hmmmmm? I'll have to respectfully disagree. i wont say i haven't forgotten
>it before but i'd still put it in the essentials.

In the context of a cut down rack as per the original post, and for those comfortable with the concept (I am aware many climbers don't even own a helmet), it is valid advice; particularly for the shorter routes at Buffalo with respect to items falling on ones head.
As for the climber falling onto their head, then that is a different matter...

Btw. I respectfully agree with you(!) as those who know me/have climbed with me can attest; ... ~> it is a rare thing for me to ever climb without wearing my helmet, and the few times I do, it is a conscious decision based on cutting down the rack!


evanbb

21-Oct-2009
10:53:51 AM

On 21/10/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>it is a rare thing for me to ever climb
>without wearing my helmet, and the few times I do, it is a conscious decision
>based on cutting down the rack!

I also noticed you've got an awesome sun protector for under helmet use. I'm definitely in the market for something similar.


gordoste

21-Oct-2009
11:02:14 AM

On 20/10/2009 evanbb wrote:
>On 20/10/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>>tape), post photo's of your bloody carcass, then retract
>>your bullshit advice?
>
>Come on ODH, you of all people know that Chockstone is here purely for
>unsubstantiated spray. You're just pissed someone is moving into your territory.

+1 evan for trolling ODH

One Day Hero

21-Oct-2009
11:55:20 AM

On 21/10/2009 gordoste wrote:
>+1 evan for trolling ODH

but he's not trolling, he actually believes that Buffalo climbs like Booroomba (don't you Ev?)

How's this? I will buy Ev a case of beer if he leads Angels in shorts, singlet and no tape (must be witnessed and must post carnage photos on chocky). I reckon the $40 bucks will be well worth the laughs.

21-Oct-2009
11:55:42 AM

On 21/10/2009 russianSpy wrote:
>I was kinda hoping to get away with smaller stuff though. I only own SLCDs
>up to #3, so thinking of supplementing with a #3,4,5 CAMP Tri-cams, if
>my wallet allows. Or other people's racks I guess =))

The old guide has a quote: "a #4 camalot is never out of place on a Buffalo rack". It is very true. You might get by without a #5 (except on offwidths, obviously) but a #4 gets used a lot. Even on mostly-bolted routes like Big Fun (very popular ** 15), a #4 camalot is very handy.

edit:
On 21/10/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>How's this? I will buy Ev a case of beer if he leads Angels in shorts,
>singlet and no tape (must be witnessed and must post carnage photos on
>chocky). I reckon the $40 bucks will be well worth the laughs.

take the bet Evanbb. the main thing you need is foot/ankle protection and he hasn't denied you that. i did it without tape gloves (spur of the moment ascent after a morning slabbing on isotope wall) and came out of it just fine.

One Day Hero

21-Oct-2009
11:57:53 AM

On 20/10/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Chemistry's the same; cooling
>regime slightly different, and erosion patterns will be very similar, since
>the chemistry is similar. So the broad shapes of the rock should be the
>same, even if the crystals are the different.

Check it out, I reckon he actually believes this :)

One Day Hero

21-Oct-2009
12:01:48 PM

On 21/10/2009 WM wrote:
>
>take the bet Evanbb. the main thing you need is foot/ankle protection
>and he hasn't denied you that. i did it without tape gloves (spur of the
>moment ascent after a morning slabbing on isotope wall) and came out of
>it just fine.

Whoah, thanks for pulling me up WM. Let me change that to 'no covering for exposed skin on arms and legs'....the cheeky f---er could have snuck out with rubber jamming gloves


evanbb

21-Oct-2009
12:06:50 PM

On 21/10/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 21/10/2009 WM wrote:
>>
>>take the bet Evanbb. the main thing you need is foot/ankle protection
>>and he hasn't denied you that. i did it without tape gloves (spur of
>the
>>moment ascent after a morning slabbing on isotope wall) and came out
>of
>>it just fine.
>

I'll do it totally naked. Preferrably a chimney/trench, with jams that can only just be reached with shoulders wedged in between. I will then bath in lemon juice at each belay.
>Whoah, thanks for pulling me up WM. Let me change that to 'no covering
>for exposed skin on arms and legs'....the cheeky f---er could have snuck
>out with rubber jamming gloves


nmonteith

21-Oct-2009
12:16:38 PM

#4 cam is the size of a fist crack - and there are plenty of those at Buffalo! I wouldn't leave the ground without one... or possibly 2 or 3 if you're doing something sustained like Caligula. Don't under estimate the length of some of the pitches - a 40m+ pitch requires a LOT of gear, especially if you need to use some to set up belays. Buffalo pitches are quite sustained.

widewetandslippery

21-Oct-2009
1:08:34 PM

What rack? It can get cold up there any time of year. I'd go double Ds'


russianSpy

21-Oct-2009
1:32:43 PM

On 21/10/2009 evanbb wrote:

>I'll do it totally naked. Preferrably a chimney/trench, with jams that
>can only just be reached with shoulders wedged in between. I will then
>bath in lemon juice at each belay.

Awesome =)
I can bring the lemon juice.
2nd week of december, right?


Paulie

23-Oct-2009
3:08:25 PM

On 21/10/2009 russianSpy wrote:
>On 20/10/2009 Paulie wrote:
>>A huge set of bollocks!
>
>as long as they don't jingle more than the hexes and place just as well
>=)) you got some I can borrow?

Nah I left my set of bollox up there along with a couple of 00 RPs on the waterfall wall...avoid the place like the plague these days...well, the Castle is still a good fun spot to watch people sh*t themselves while I sip a nice cool pina colada in the shade :-)


wallwombat

23-Oct-2009
4:20:58 PM

Here's an example that pertains to ACT granite but, I believe, shows the difference between Buffalo granite and Booroomba granite

Evan, go bouldering for a full day at Black Range and then the following weekend go bouldering for a full day on the boulders around Honey Suckle Creek camp ground (there are plenty of boulders there if you have have a scrub bash). Compare your hands after each day.

Black Range is like Booroomba and Honey Suckle Boulders are like Buffalo.

If you get my drift.

Gareth

23-Oct-2009
6:32:19 PM


IdratherbeclimbingM9

29-Oct-2009
4:17:26 PM

On 20/10/2009 evanbb wrote:
>On 20/10/2009 climbau wrote:
>>Tape or crack gloves!
>>
>>
>
>Weakness! I used to subscribe to this view, but as my jamBing technique
>has improved I use them less and less. As they say, it's like using a condom.
>Sure it's safer, but it doesn't feel as good, not as tactile.

and earlier on another thread...
On 1/04/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Someone was hassling me the other day about taping up for jamming, calling me a something derogatory. But it's not the pain that worries me, it's the damage that would stop me climbing tomorrow, and the day after...

Hey ODH, you should be stoked for evanbb, (I am.☺); as he obviously has his crack climbing vs tape thingy dialled in during the period April to Oct this year.
Now all that is needed is crunch-hardtack brekky food to enable learning the art of climbing jamBcracks with gobis...
Better yet a couple of weeks running laps on cracks at Buffalo will have that sorted?
Lemon juiced gobis ~> yum, yum!
Heh, heh, heh.

There are 64 messages in this topic.