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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Mt Alexander Dog Rocks (General) [ Mt Alexander Guide | Images ] 

Author
Painless
lfranklin
21/09/2009
11:00:53 AM
Hey all, I was out climbing at Dog Rocks yesterday and we decidied to give Painless (10m 18/20) a go. I was climbing and finding the section between the first and second bolt pretty committing. Ended up streched out clipping the second bolt and probably should have made the move before clipping the rope but, ...... All ended well.
When i topped out and lowered back to the ground i read the guide book! I'm pretty sure that the flake they mention is now gone? Anyone know how long it's been down? probably think it should get about 20 now!
Fish Boy
21/09/2009
4:33:14 PM
It's been gone for years. Do the 21 arete or Mcdogs to get a feel for the 21's there and you wont think painless is a 20.
lfranklin
21/09/2009
4:50:13 PM
Cool, thanks. I tried Little Bo Peep, What a climb! I made it to the top and slapped around wildly struggling to pull over the top before peeling. Am i to assume that is a solid 21? I do agree that it seems alot easier than LBP but probably close to par with Ebb and Flow? I suppose there are more obvious rests on Painless.

ambyeok
21/09/2009
5:00:58 PM
The Mt Alex chockstone guide lists "Painless" as 10m grade 20.

blueskyblonde
21/09/2009
7:28:43 PM
I have done both the climbs in question and i did find the 21 on the arete much more harder
than painless and would agree to the grading. I felt that it had more committing clips and
harder moves. Painless was a bit daunting at first but on the second time i climbed it i felt
it was easier than a 20...more an 18.
There is also that two carrot 17 on the bolder below painless i think its called mercy and i
could not even get off the ground.
Fish Boy
23/09/2009
6:24:17 PM
That thing is a one move wonder that seems to take about half an hour to work out....
lfranklin
24/09/2009
8:56:25 AM
Agree with that! once you get off the ground it all over.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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