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 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
Author
Wanted: Portaledge---buy, rent, borrow....
stokedsean
8/02/2011
11:15:04 AM
I am an ex-Canadian climber (living in Brisbane the last few years)...Will be down Mt. Buffalo soon and was hoping to get on Ozymandias for a multiday adventure.

Would anyone be willing to sell, lend or rent a double ledge for about 3 days?

Yew

Sean

nmonteith
8/02/2011
11:26:46 AM
You don't need a porta-ledge for Ozy. Just bivi on the Big Grassy ledge.
Cam McKenzie
8/02/2011
12:11:02 PM
It would certainly be a hell of a lot more comfortable with a ledge than sleeping on a slopy dirty ledge.
stokedsean
8/02/2011
12:23:29 PM
Yeah I'm all for comfort...and contingency...dunno how many groups are up on it on weekends?? could be busy?
S

nmonteith
8/02/2011
12:28:31 PM
On 8/02/2011 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>It would certainly be a hell of a lot more comfortable with a ledge than
>sleeping on a slopy dirty ledge.

That's half the fun of it! I don't remember it being too cramped... but the last time i slept on it was 13 years ago... maybe it has eroded more?


stokedsean
8/02/2011
12:38:41 PM
cool!

nmonteith
8/02/2011
12:42:55 PM
On 8/02/2011 stokedsean wrote:
>Yeah I'm all for comfort...and contingency...dunno how many groups are
>up on it on weekends?? could be busy?

Let's just say it aint Yosemite. It probably only gets less than 20 ascents a year, so chances are you could rock up on any weekend and not be sharing the route with anyone.
mikllaw
8/02/2011
1:01:25 PM
I had a weird hammock made from an old dress you could recreate, 3 sets of cords adjusted by prussics and bong/spreader bar for the shoulders


nmonteith
8/02/2011
1:07:51 PM
Is that a sailing ship?
stokedsean
8/02/2011
1:50:22 PM
Now were talkin'
You can buy hamock chairs with single tie in points and a spreader bar (some even rated to 120kgs)...packs up way smaller than a ledge and weighs a fraction of the ledge also!!!

http://www.hammockstore.com.au/

they are sold out of the colour i like thou ;-)
Cam McKenzie
8/02/2011
1:52:02 PM
We didn't sleep on Big Grassy (fixed a couple of pitches then slept on the ground, then went up to the Gledhill Bivy the next day). We didn't have a ledge and just had crappy hammocks from the disposal shop that worked out. They didn't look like sailing ships which is a bit disappointing in retrospect.

Big Grassy looked very slopy to me and Nico commented that they only managed to sleep on it last time hanging half way off the edge. If you've got access to a ledge, I'd take it (or a hammock that looks like a sailing ship).

Doubt you'll have any problems with it being crowded.
stokedsean
8/02/2011
2:52:41 PM
Thanks for all the advice Cam, Neil etc,
Yup still tryin hard to scrounge a ledge at the mo, that sounds like the go. We were hopin to take our time and relax in the ledge....not just race to to the top.
Hopefully we can borrow a ledge from someone on here and live it up in style
Sean

nmonteith
8/02/2011
3:00:37 PM
The way we did it without a portaledge was to climb first three pitches to Big Grassy and then bivi. Next day climb the next three pitches, tie all our ropes together and rap back to Big Grassy for another nights sleep (ropes goes straight ledge), then next morning jumar up and finish the route before lunch.
tristosterone
8/02/2011
3:32:41 PM
Take a hammock for big grassy! Bolts on either side of the corner... One person in a hammock, one person on the ground. That would be comfy...
Cam McKenzie
8/02/2011
3:44:36 PM
Having a hammock also makes the bivy at the base much more confortable if you go down that path as you don't have to sleep in mud. Plenty of trees to rig it off.
fish boy
8/02/2011
5:37:03 PM
I have a Forrest Mountaineering single point hammock you can buy for $80, never seen a rock.
fish boy
8/02/2011
5:37:37 PM
Oh, and BG looks nothing like Neils photo anymore, it's all washed away....
stokedsean
11/02/2011
10:11:55 AM
Hi fish boy, I sent you an email asking for a piccy of the relic ;-)

Its getting closer to D-Day for us and well...Im not too keen on spooning on a rocky ledge with my buddy...been there done dat too many times. At least its not frozen and snowing (hopefully).

Cheers,
Sean

One Day Hero
11/02/2011
8:35:30 PM
On 8/02/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>The way we did it without a portaledge was to climb first three pitches
>to Big Grassy and then bivi. Next day climb the next three pitches, tie
>all our ropes together and rap back to Big Grassy for another nights sleep
>(ropes goes straight ledge), then next morning jumar up and finish the
>route before lunch.

Wierd!

When I was 21yrs old and at Buffalo for the first time, I'd never heard of Ozy being anything other than a 2 (or 1) day route. It never occured to me to do anything other than climb to the ledge on the first day, then climb to the top on the second day.

My 21yr old brain also figured that if The Nose takes 5 days/1000m, any more than 2 days/250m would mean that I was more of a farce than the parade of fat seppo's who clog routes at Yosemite..........couldn't let that happen!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12/02/2011
8:50:03 AM
On 11/02/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 8/02/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>>The way we did it without a portaledge was to climb first three pitches
>>to Big Grassy and then bivi. Next day climb the next three pitches, tie
>>all our ropes together and rap back to Big Grassy for another nights
>sleep
>>(ropes goes straight ledge), then next morning jumar up and finish the
>>route before lunch.
>
>Wierd!
>
>When I was 21yrs old and at Buffalo for the first time, I'd never heard
>of Ozy being anything other than a 2 (or 1) day route. It never occured
>to me to do anything other than climb to the ledge on the first day, then
>climb to the top on the second day.
>
>My 21yr old brain also figured that if The Nose takes 5 days/1000m, any
>more than 2 days/250m would mean that I was more of a farce than the parade
>of fat seppo's who clog routes at Yosemite..........couldn't let that happen!

Farce?
I am not defending seppos, but there are many reasons for climbing. About as many as there are climbers I guess, and among them are those who like to count the crystals/lichen or whatever, ie simply sojourn in the place!
For those that are into speed ascents I applaud the ability to do so, but I also think they miss much of the ambience available to them.
... And this is without engaging in the mind games associated with loooooong-time ascents!


PS, I also reckon Ozy to be closer to 300 m than 250 m!
Heh, heh, heh.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 22
There are 22 messages in this topic.

 

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