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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 5 of 16. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 307
Author
Trashing Tassie ... it's beyond salvation
jesus
15-Mar-2011
10:34:14 PM
>>>No he's not, he's trying to point out the ridiculous contradiction of leaving stellar >>>aretes at the Ben unbolted for "ethical reasons"

ODiousH ... stella aretes can always be top roped ... they dont have to be bolted to be a ' climb ' .... Roger Parkyn trashed one of the greatest climbs / pieces of rock in Australia when he bolted right next to Sky Rocket on the Pipes ...for that he is the mofa of all ckhds ...

>>>Gerry and Bob being the bosses of Tassie climbing.

They never were never will be ... Bob is Gerrys boss and Bob ACTS like a boss cos hes still got a chip on his shoulder about being involved on the wrong end of a major incident on Ben Lomond yeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaars ago involving a large contingent of police search and rescue ...


>>>What Jesus, and John, and Gerry should appreciate is that Tassie is a forgotten little backwater...

We all know that .... and where the waters putrify ... the pox tends to spread ...

One Day Hero
15-Mar-2011
10:43:43 PM
On 15/03/2011 Winston Smith wrote:
>
>In the face of Gerry Narkowicz’s unrelenting arrogance I’d like to say
>publicly that I personally regret suggesting that the Sydney Rockclimbing
>Club donate $2000 from its guidebook fund to the production costs of the
>McMahon/Narkowicz Ben Lomond guide.
>
Why? You donated the money to aid the publication of a guidebook, and a good guidebook was/will be produced. Where's the problem? Did you think that 2000 bucks would buy a lifetime of arselicking for the entire membership of your poxy scrambling club? How arrogant!

I fuchin' hate climbing clubs, and the main reason is that they always end up being run by mini-tyrants. One sniff of a pathetic smidgen of power, and off they go.........seeking to control how others behave on and off the rock.

I could call you an over compensating small-man, who never got picked for school sporting teams..........but, "SRC president" is a more concise way to say the same thing!

I hope that tnd recovers from the shock of being called a bad name on Chocky. We all know how sensitive those micks are to verbal abuse.
One Day Hero
15-Mar-2011
10:51:58 PM
On 15/03/2011 Sabu wrote:
> Frankly I'm a bit disappointed I bought the tassie selected guide....

Christ! Sabu is gonna make the world a better place by spending his guidebook dollars in an ethical way.

I realise that you're fresh out of uni, and just about to change the world.........but seriously, if you want to get any climbing done on a 2 week trip to Tassie, Gerry's guide is the way to go.

If you want to use your money to "make a difference"........fair-trade coffee?
jesus
15-Mar-2011
10:56:44 PM
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Simey steps up to the mike :
>>>There is merit in keeping the cliff bolt free...

Jesus has a liddle confession to make ...but DAD approves anyway ...

Last November .... somewhere along the massive western flank of the Ben Lomond plateau ... at 2nd pitch height ... there are 2 spearing finger crack / seams (21/22)... Between where the first one ends and the second one starts ... is a vertical 7 metre rising traverse ... on small incuts and layaways (24) ... a sky hook was used ... on lead ... while hand drilling ... to accommodate the permanent fixture of 2 ss carrot bolts ... The pitch was then red-pointed ... plus more loooooooovely climbing above ....

And so ... the first QUALITY semi-bolted adventure route on Ben Lomond was established ...

BIG DEAL ......................... perhaps nuclear fallout over Japan is a bit more important than 2 obscure bolts in ' the wilderness ' ......


++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++



One Day Hero
15-Mar-2011
11:00:36 PM
On 15/03/2011 jesus wrote:
>
>ODiousH ... stella aretes can always be top roped ... they dont have
>to be bolted to be a ' climb ' ....

Jesus....I thought you were sharper than that. I like the idea of a bolt-free Ben. I think Gerry would be able to defend this position less hypocritically if he didn't insist on gridbolting total pox around launceston................actually, I don't really care that much. Who knows when I'll ever get back there?

jesus
15-Mar-2011
11:07:43 PM
>>>I don't really care that much...

thats right disciple damo .... and with the passing of time .... and a new generation at hand ...the next wave of development at Ben has began .....two bollts ... two trees ... two dams ... its all part of the great diversity that is Tassie ...

nmonteith
15-Mar-2011
11:09:03 PM
On 15/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>............I'm pretty sure that Neil got on here a while ago, advocating
>the debolting of Rosea so we could have a bolt free crag in the gramps

That was pretty much a troll as certain climbers were proposing that Taipan Wall should be turned into a sport crag. I was showing them that by their logic I should be able to make an all trad crag as well.

nmonteith
15-Mar-2011
11:10:35 PM
BTW tone down the personal abuse ODH.
jesus
15-Mar-2011
11:11:30 PM


I thought long and hard about it ... but after seeing the crass ski chalets on the top of the plateau and the bulldozered / blasted road up Jacobs ladder ... not to mention Fantinis FKN STPD massive tube chocks ... I thought .............. QUALITY ....


jesus
15-Mar-2011
11:13:30 PM
Neil ... please go and show them how to re-bolt all that pox ...
jesus
15-Mar-2011
11:24:57 PM
I know I have ended an era that started when the dolerite formed sills in Northern Tas during the Jurrasic ................and also a fiercly defended ideology of some 40 years .... but when i saw all the bolts at the Star Factory in the Freycinet NP .... and no one giving a shit about the bigger picture ... I thought ... a bit like Gerry I spose ...

>>> If you don't like the bolts on some routes ....then don't climb them - I don't care - I >>>enjoyed the first ascent and thats all that matters...


BUT .... I DO know that my new route ' contribution ' heralds not only a new ideological paradigm at Ben Lomond ....it also paves the way for a new exciting wave of progressive climbing in Tasmania ....




jesus
15-Mar-2011
11:27:56 PM
'


Gotta go .... DADs calling .... Happy Easter everyone !









#####################################################



Husssssshhhhh my son .....we can hear u up hear ...

>>>If you don't, no one will ever see nor clip your bolts...

Theyr not mine ... there part of the mountain now ....

>>>If you don't, no one will ever see nor clip your bolts...


>>>>>>I don't really care that much...















One Day Hero
16-Mar-2011
12:01:30 AM
On 15/03/2011 jesus wrote:
>I know I have ended an era that started when the dolerite formed sills
>in Northern Tas during the Jurrasic........etc etc

Hex drops a nuke and waits for the ensuing pandamonium, but I doubt this'll get the reaction you hoped for.......you build shit up too much, dude.

I reckon you should have gotten your second to clean those bolts as they came through. Why? Cause there's no point in them being there. If you advertise the location of the route, Gerry will chop the bolts. If you don't, no one will ever see nor clip your bolts.........they might as well not exist, unless you like the idea of Gerry losing sleep over it.
Wendy
16-Mar-2011
7:29:26 AM
On 16/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:

>
>I reckon you should have gotten your second to clean those bolts as they
>came through. Why? Cause there's no point in them being there. If you advertise
>the location of the route, Gerry will chop the bolts. If you don't, no
>one will ever see nor clip your bolts.........they might as well not exist,
>unless you like the idea of Gerry losing sleep over it.

Schrodinger's bolts?

tnd
16-Mar-2011
8:44:19 AM
On 15/03/2011 tastrad wrote:
>to TND, Better than being a c--khead like you

Oscar Wilde himself would have been proud of that witty retort.

tnd
16-Mar-2011
8:49:56 AM
On 15/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>(the usual inane gibbering then...)
>I could call you an over compensating small-man, who never got picked for school >sporting teams..........but, "SRC president" is a more concise way to say the same >thing!

The current SRC President is a woman, so this is unlikely to be the case.

The spotty kid "who never got picked for school sporting teams" is a reasonable explanation for your ravings.
simey
16-Mar-2011
9:09:54 AM
On 15/03/2011 jesus wrote:
>Last November .... somewhere along the massive western flank of the Ben Lomond plateau ... at 2nd pitch height ... there are 2 spearing finger crack / seams (21/22)... Between where the first one ends and the second one starts ... is a vertical 7 metre rising traverse ... on small incuts and layaways (24) ... a sky hook was used ... on lead ... while hand drilling... to accommodate the permanent fixture of 2 ss carrot bolts ... The pitch was then red-pointed ... plus more loooooooovely climbing above ....
>
>And so ... the first QUALITY semi-bolted adventure route on Ben Lomond was established ...

Routes that are established ground up definitely have merit and this route sounds great. However the murky dilemma of trying to differentiate the validity of bolts depending on how the routes were established would be futile (for example Pole Dancer at Cape Raoul is a sport route that was bolted on lead using a power drill).

bones
16-Mar-2011
9:14:54 AM
On 16/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>One day I'm going to sit down and carry all of ODH's one-liners to their
>conclusion (i.e. "Don't volunteer for sporting clubs, it only makes you
>a megalomaniac fascist") and write up the resulting world view. Reckon
>it'll make a good novel.

Or a hit single to the music of the sunscreen song
One Day Hero
16-Mar-2011
10:23:55 AM
On 16/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>One day I'm going to....blah, blah

No you won't. You're a lazy fucher who can't even be bothered to read the replies to questions he asks.

Anyway, like some artsy wanker once said "I'm just holding up the mirror. If you arseholes don't like what you see, then suck my balls"................or something to that effect.
jesus
16-Mar-2011
10:59:49 AM
>>>Routes that are established ground up definitely have merit and this route
>>>sounds great. However the murky dilemma of trying to differentiate the
>>>validity of bolts depending on how the routes were established would be
>>>futile

I used a hand drill cos I didnt want to lug the power drill into the crag and then up the crag ... hand drill or power drill is irrelavent ... tho the yanks make a good case ... the important bit is facilitating gorgeous new climbs / experiences be adding 2 or 3 bolts to provide safe passage across ' naturally ' unprotectable parts ...

Common sense and RESPECT then dictates where adventure climbing stops and sport climbing starts ...

>>>(for example Pole Dancer at Cape Raoul is a sport route that was
>>>bolted on lead using a power drill).

When will ppl realise Pole Dancer is not a ' sport climb " ??? .... when ya gottat drive then bushwalk then scramble/climb ... for hours ...to get to the base of a route which is stuck out in the Southern Ocean ....... IT AINT A FKN SPORT ROUTE !!!! .... its a bolt protected adventure route .. just in this case ALL the runners are bolts ... at least Farkyn Parkyn got this one right ...



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There are 307 messages in this topic.

 

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