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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 4 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 177
Caldwell and Jorgeson Dawn Wall El Cap Project

10:36:24 AM
Ouch....rib separated from the sternum.

Online Now
11:39:05 AM
On 6/11/2013 shortman wrote:
>Ouch....rib separated from the sternum.


On November 1, Caldwell wrote on his Facebook page: "Disaster strikes! Haul bag took a 200-foot plunge while clipped to the back of my harness. Hauling hook fail. It was a bit jarring. Looks like a costochondral separation. I am headed home to try and heal as quickly as possible."
A costochondral separation, which occurs when a rib separates from the sternum, can take upwards of three months to heal with complete rest from strenuous activities. At this time, however, it is unknown whether Caldwell's injury is mild or severe, but with the already shortened window of climbing on what is likely the world's hardest big-wall free climb, the Dawn Wall project could be delayed until 2014.


And according to Jorgeson, Caldwell may not be out of the game for that long.
"It sounds like Tommy is healing up nicely," he wrote. "So I wouldn't be surprised to have him back sooner rather than later."

As stated above, Caldwell suffered a separated rib on El Cap last weekend and has currently returned home to heal. Jorgeson explained the incident in more detail, writing: "We were jumaring up fixed lines. Tommy was hauling the day bag with a rope, shoes, clothes, etc. for the evening session on the crux traverse pitch. We were using a hauling hook as we had all season. When Tommy left the pitch 7 anchor, the haul bag got jostled loose and took the full 200-foot whip onto the hauling loop on the back of his harness."

I fully understand that situation and the associated pain that goes with popping a rib off one's sternum.
My guess is the bag twang-impact at ropes end, caused the front of his harness to compress his lower rib-cage, ... and 'pop' goes a rib that was overlapped by the harness.

I can vouch (after about 6 years past a similar injury), that they don't just heal up, & "upwards of three months" can be an understated misnomer...
~> Yes it is still an ouch, and likely one that I will take to my grave, which I hope is not the case for T. Caldwell.

As an aside, dislodged haul (fifi) hooks, are nearly always bad news on a wall, & more especially if/while soloing.

This amazing project of theirs has certainly been worth following, and the twists and turns it is taking would have seem far-fetched if scripted on paper instead of real-life!

8:39:02 PM
Seems to have recovered from his rib injury ok. From Pro Climbers International's Facebook page:
Breaking News: Tommy Caldwell just sent Pitch 15, the second "traverse pitch" on the Dawn Wall. At 5.14d, it's the hardest pitch in Yosemite and represents a huge step toward an eventual send of the entire route. Congratulations Tommy!

3:42:03 PM
Holy shit it goes:

Tommy Caldwell
Oh my goodness!!! After six years I finally sent this beast of a pitch. Inspired by Keven's fight to the death near miss.This officially means all the hard individual pitches have been redpointed. I am so psyched my hands are shaking! Thanks for the rad photo @jeffjohnson_beyondandback

8:16:19 AM
On 20/12/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>After many days spread over five years, he finally can execute and link all the moves, and will soon be ready for a redpoint "burn."
>5 years and he hasn't had an actual shot at that pitch yet?!?! Kinda farcical don't you think?

So they're finally going for it. Updates from Jorgeson's FB page:

Sat 27th:
Today we started our push! It may be a few weeks before we walk on flat ground again, but we are psyched.
We sent the first five pitches this afternoon (12b, 13a, 13c, 12b, 12d wet).
The goal for tomorrow is to climb pitched 6-9 (13c, 14a, 13d, 13b).
Thanks for all the kind words and stoke everyone. It's battle time!

Sun 28th:

Day 2 was a big day for us. We sent pitches 6-9 over the course of 10 hours. I split two tips today which is unfortunate, but thankfully the next few pitches, 10-11, are not sharp.
Here's a run down of how today went. Thanks to Big UP Productions and Brett Lowell for the photo!
Pitch 6, 13c: Tommy led first go and I followed on TR first go (pictured).
Pitch 7, 14a: I sent second go and Tommy sent first go.
Pitch 8, 13d: Tommy sent in three goes and I sent in two. Sharp!
Pitch 9, 13c: I sent second go and Tommy sent first go.

3:03:45 PM
While Chockstone's been down, the boys have been hard at work.

From Jorgeson's Facebook:
Day 3 was supposed to be a rest day, but there's some seriously cold and windy weather on the horizon. So, we decided to push through the fatigue left over from pitches 1-9 and climb today anyway.

The goal was simple. Pitch 10, 5.14a.

50' of two finger pin scar lie backing protected by 7 consecutive beaks leads to a 20' permanently wet section for both hands and feet. Nails. After a good rest where you can dry your hands and shoes, you climb 35' of 5.12 terrain. This all leads up to a crux undercling boulder problem capped by a nerve wracking, tenuous face traverse to the anchors (pictured).

After 3 attempts each, Tommy Caldwell and I both sent. Now for a rest day!

Pitch 10:

Day 5:
Tonight, I sent the hardest pitch of my life and the hardest on the Dawn Wall! Best of all, Tommy sent right after me! Pitch 14 (the first traverse) is in the bag! ‪#‎dawnwall‬
Thanks to Jeff Johnson for the photo!

7:28:54 AM
On 7/01/2015 trog wrote:
>"Dawn Wall climbers attempt arguably world's most difficult ascent in Yosemite without ropes"
>Not as bad an article as the headline would have you think

Here's more interesting quotes:

I'm not as offended as the author by the alabaster wall one.

9:07:52 AM
All esoteric pursuits have this problem. Ask anyone who is into gliding, whether fixed wing, hang or para, about being asked (no doubt including by climbers) "what happens if the wind stops?".

9:12:56 AM
What does happen if the wind changes?

10:41:57 AM

11:14:10 AM
Even at take off?

12:29:10 PM
I fly fixed wing (sailplanes), so much less susceptible to the variations in strength and direction one might encounter during takeoff. What I was referring to in the "wind stop" quote was that a lot of people think that the wind is required to keep one flying. It's not; updrafts are. If there aren't any, then one simply descends in a slow controlled manner rather than fall out of the sky.
10:23:31 PM
Have you ever been struck by lightning?

7:53:05 AM
Fomr Jorgeson's Facebok yesterday:
My battle with Pitch 15 continues. After 6 years of work, my #DawnWall quest comes down to sending this pitch. Last night, I experienced a lightness and calm like never before. Despite failing, it will always be one of my most memorable climbing experiences. On my 4th attempt, around 11pm, the razor sharp holds ripped both the tape and the skin right off my fingers. As disappointing as this is, I'm learning new levels of patience, perseverance and desire. I'm not giving up. I will rest. I will try again. I will succeed. Photo by @coreyrichproductions. @adidasoutdoor

8:27:39 AM
Tommy has ticked pitch 20:

12:23:02 PM
Kevin has ticked pitch 15!

9:45:57 PM
Pure joy. Pitch 15 finally went down after 11 attempts over 7 days. Riding high, I stuck the dyno on Pitch 16, but fell in the corner right above the no hands stance. Back to finish that tomorrow. THANK YOU SO MUCH to everyone who has followed along, believed and supported us. It's not over yet.
Thanks to Tom Evans for the celebration photo after clipping the anchor on 15.

7:05:21 AM
Jorgeson's facebook:
Momentum is a powerful force. When it's on your side, everything feels a bit easier. When it's not on your side, it feels like wading through mud. For 7 days, my momentum was halted by Pitch 15. It took everything in my power to stay positive and resolved that I would succeed. Now that momentum has returned to my side, I'm staying just as focused and resolved because a lot of hard climbing remains. Yesterday I finished the last 5.14 pitch and another 5.13 pitch above that. Three more 5.13's guard my path to Wino Tower. Thanks for all the continued support everyone! ‪#‎DawnWall‬ Photo/@coreyrichproductions @bigupclimbing @adidasoutdoor

1:21:45 PM
Cool interactive graphic thing:
kyneton guy
9:39:01 PM
And I have an urge to go and buy a pair of TC pro's because they are BOTH wearing them for this project.

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