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Beginner question about top roping.

davepalethorpe

20-Jul-2010
2:35:28 PM

On 20/07/2010 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>If it is an item such as in the last suggested reading link, ie with only
>one point of attachment for the rope ... (no matter how many times it is
>anchored), in that case it still did not have redundancy...

Must say I wouldn't be too bothered clipping through a single quick clip lower off providing it was attached to two separate anchor points, and as long as it is rated (not one of those dodgy cast ones that Neil linked to!). I always presumed that redundancy was more in regards to anchor points. I don't have redundancy when I belay (only use one locking biner with a belay device), and I don't think that I really have redundancy when I abseil (unless you count the prussik assuming it wouldn't melt!). Is this a wrong assumption??


aarond

20-Jul-2010
2:38:22 PM

On 20/07/2010 nmonteith wrote:

>I'm sure not a great deal of thought went into it (talking from personal
>experience!). That was probably all that was in the bottom of the bolt
>kit that day. A cobbled together anchor from odds and ends.

hmm yeh true, i just always thought it seemed a bit pointless but there probably was some reason


nmonteith

20-Jul-2010
3:04:54 PM

On 20/07/2010 davepalethorpe wrote:
>Must say I wouldn't be too bothered clipping through a single quick clip
>lower off providing it was attached to two separate anchor points, and
>as long as it is rated (not one of those dodgy cast ones that Neil linked
>to!).

It's pretty common to clip and lower-off a single biner attached to a chain at places like Nowra. You just want to be sure it's bomber - certainly take much care with anything that resembles something from a hardware store or yachting shop.


peterc

20-Jul-2010
4:55:00 PM

Hi all,

Niall Doherty and I bolted Mañana.

Because of factors like rock quality, suitable bolt positions, and the desire to make the climb user-friendly to grade 13 climbers, we decided to use a stainless quick-clip on one of the anchor points.

That way any leaders who were starting to get a little excited about the possibility of taking a plunge from the top could quickly clip their rope into an anchor. I know it's only a grade 13 climb, and we could have just left two rings at the top and saved some money, but we must have been feeling generous.

We put the other anchor point (from memory it's a ring bolt), next to the quick-clip. We put a locking carabiner on that bolt, but that was pinched by someone not long after we established the route.

But even without the locking carabiner, the route still has two anchor points at the top. And one of them has a stainless quick-clip biner to help nervous leaders.


aarond

21-Jul-2010
11:00:55 AM

awesome thanks peterc. the other locking biener makes alot of sense shame it was pinched.

There are 25 messages in this topic.