Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

bumbly blues .....

gfdonc

5-Apr-2004
12:29:06 PM

Funny, after many years of climbing and then a long break, I found myself back in bumbly shoes last December on more than one front.
Racing mountain bikes had caused my arm strength to waste away to nothing, but more relevant to this posting, I found my 'trust' in the rope and safety systems to have also diminished over time.
Even taking the first few falls on toprope in the gym felt awkward and uncomfortable. As someone (Mikl?) said, fear is what keeps us alive. After a few weeks though, my confidence in my belayers and 10.5mm of nylon is somewhat restored. Keep climbing, keep double-checking things, but be prepared to take a few falls if you want to improve.
- Steve


IdratherbeclimbingM9

5-Apr-2004
2:24:03 PM

On 5/04/2004 Spanky wrote:
>inexperienced belayer who thought it much "safer" to pull that rope as
>tight as she could which would yoink me off the wall A LOT
Excessive ropedrag / (inexperienced leading?), will do it to you too!


hex-TROLL

19-Apr-2004
3:52:04 PM

On 30/03/2004 hex-TROLL wrote:
>There is a dude called Terry
> Who makes us all so merry
> When ya start to get quivering pex
> Just think of our mate ' The HEX ' !!!
> And soon you'll be Moffat & Jerry !
> (or Samantha Berry )
>
> As both HB and H-T have found , the key seems to be 'getting solid 'at
>each new grade before moving on and up.
>
> A very good strategy is to lead as far as you can , and then when ya
>brain sez '... this is no good...get the hell off '---retreat ,safely to
>ya last runner, then lower off ; then let 'the better climber ' belayer
>, lead thru from your high point ; which then allows you to power thru
>to the top , while 'work-shopping your emotions' at the zone of resistance
>,without the 'pressure' of 'the sharp-end'
>
> You will gain the 'tick' ; the confidence ; and the skills from ya buddy.
>
> Bit by bit , you will sneak thru the grades --- without that 'queasy
>feeling'
>
> You're heading in the right direction , dude !
>
> Luv, HEX

MAXOTS---I couldn't agree more with hexie on this 'strategy' ---IT WORKS !!!


Richard

20-Apr-2004
12:49:08 PM

Works well >IF< you have a partner who's stronger

Who can I borrow the draw monkey from for next weekend?? (Could be some XXX action...!!)


maxots

20-Apr-2004
1:36:32 PM

what hex??????

i posted on the other thread, its TEL who was asking this question.

and much as i agree witht the 'consolidating the grades idea, i dont think i ever said it on this forum???

therefore >>>> i really dont understand your post

EDIT >>>
unless your saying to (me) maxots look at this strategy, it applies to your problem too, rather tjhan quoting me as i presumed.. Think that makes sense now ! ! ! !


Damietta

20-Apr-2004
1:39:53 PM

I can really relate to the earlier post about concentration leading vs toproping. I know that I seem to rush things on the toprope, espec while seconding. On the lead, particularly placing wiggles, everything becomes a bit more calculated, careful and I see to tap into some, usually unavailable, reserves of strength


shiltz

20-Apr-2004
2:17:44 PM

Know the feeling well. I do some really stupid things seconding (rush the moves, miss rests, resort to thuggish technique). On lead I take my time, find the gear, find the rests and generally dial into the climb a whole lot better.

There are 27 messages in this topic.