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Tiger Wall - Dribble Bolting?

slackjaw

30-Aug-2009
6:23:56 AM

Well, these bolts have finally done it for me.
As a regular follower of chockstone all this controversy is forcing me to cross the ditch and come and have a look for myself. Flights and rental car are confirmed and paid for and my son and I arrive there at the end of November after he's finished his final school exams and will be staying until christmas.
We're both really looking foward to the climbing, and also to spend a bit of time in your cafe after some hard days Simey.
Is the Nati Dragon still around? Looking foward to also making her aquaintaince if she is.
Cheers all


Eduardo Slabofvic

30-Aug-2009
10:53:02 AM

On 29/08/2009 mattjr wrote:
>carrot soup any one?
>

I'll have the chops


Eduardo Slabofvic

30-Aug-2009
2:09:17 PM

On 29/08/2009 simey wrote:
>
>If people want to suggest cafe names as a slightly more interesting tangent
>for this thread, feel free...
>

"The Wet Patch"

"The Chossy Corner"

"The New Root" ..... whoops, sorry, I miss-spelt that, I meant to type "Route"


mattjr

30-Aug-2009
2:31:59 PM

On 30/08/2009 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>On 29/08/2009 mattjr wrote:
>>carrot soup any one?
>>
>
>I'll have the chops

Followed by an extra large portion of the dessert special: "beard strokers delight"
(warning: may leave a bitter after taste)

robertsonja

31-Aug-2009
5:02:24 PM

On 27/08/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>No, what I'm saying is... (hypothetical minutes of the meeting)
>
>Bazza - so I did Dribble the other day and that third belay is shit. I
>couldn't place any gear and my
>partner had to solo second the pitch. So do you guys in the committee
>reckon we should put some
>bolts in to stop someone injuring themselves?
>
>Dazza - No, I believe its safe as it currently is.
>
>Cazza - yere, its safe as houses.
>
>Dazza - lets vote on putting the bolts in.
>
>Bazza - aye!
>
>Dazza & Cazza - (in unison) nay
>
>Bazza - oh well nay it is then. The official stance is that the route
>is currently safe.
>
>Next day someone falls off and dies. Someone points out to the coroner
>that the local safety
>committee voted that it was currently safe. Suddenly Mr Coroner wants
>to know more...

Bazza - define "shit"
Coroner - "no Bazza, your shit"

This post, along with most others, is not relevant to the thread, but I do understand the point your are trying to make, unfortunately it is nonsense.

However, there may be more of a litigation case if someone fell and ripped out some poxy glued up affair on Council property, OR - if someone had bolted up an entire new crag face in a National Park, to the dismay of other park users and National Parks.

robertsonja

31-Aug-2009
5:16:06 PM

On 25/08/2009 mikepatt wrote:
>On 24/08/2009 brendan wrote:
>>so just to ease everyones mind, roberstonja (jason) is not a bolt nazi
>>we have been in the Blue mountains for the last 3 days and have had fun
>>climbing and clipping bolts, however that is the blue mountains, and
>every
>>area has there own ethics and i think this is where the intial problem
>>is. Jason is not complaining about someone painting numbers on a boulder
>>in Fontainebleu or bolting a climb in Nowra, he is complaining about
>someone
>>bolting a belay in a traditional climbing area, he obviously feels pissed
>>off as someone has taken it upon themselves to bolt a belay on a trad
>route
>>that was not bolted on the first ascent, the route sounds like a peice
>>of shit anyway. Its the principal, just like when Robert McMahon & Gerry
>>Narkowicz chopped there own abseil anchor on Ben Lomond to prove a principal
>>about not bolting on Ben Lomond, if the belay was fiddly and gear hard
>>to find when he was preparing the route for the guidebook maybe he should
>>have included that in the guidebook, at the end of the day i don't really
>>care, i just want araplies to be a trad cliff with strong ethics, look
>>at the UK they have tiny little cliffs that are not world class but there
>>ethics are what makes the place what it is, its the principle of the
>debate
>>not the actual climb or bolts
>
>Have you visited Gimmer crag in the Lake District Brendan? Deepest trad
>teritory, yet even there they've installed a bloody great chain to abseil
>off.. to minimise gully ersosion. Read a bit more about the history of
>Gimmer and the other Lake District cargs and you'll find lots of abseil
>inspection, top roing before leading, chipping etc etc... and since when
>have ethics ever been applied to Arapiles???

I think the point Brendan was making was the general anti-bolting ethics in the UK (gritstone) as opposed to specific bolting cases. YES - I am sure you can point out a specific bolt(s) (only for an abseil off with environmental considerations) or cases of people top-roping.

It is interesting that a damp little island, with little cliffs can become a world renowned hard climbing venue that has produced innumerable world class climbers, in part due to strong ethics.


wallwombat

31-Aug-2009
6:22:03 PM

Have to agree with ODH on that one.

Steve McClure's latest article in CLIMB broaches on this subject. He argues that British climbing has progressed "sideways" into headpointing and bouldering and now has very few climbers operating at the top level of technical climbing. Here's a direct quote from the article.

" The number of climbers operating at F8c or above in 1995 was far higher than it is now."

He is talking about British climbers here.

And quite recently Alex Hannold, Matt Segal and that Jorgenson bloke travelled from the US to the UK and absolutely smoked the joint - downgrading quite a few so called cutting edge gritstone routes.

British climbing has actually stalled a bit and although in the past it has certainly produced world class climbers such as Moon, Moffat, Dawes, Smith and Gresham, it isn't producing them now. Climbers such as Ryan Pasquill and James Pearson are great climbers but aren't climbing any where near as hard as climbers like Patxi Usobiaga, Ramon Julian, and some of the other Spanish dudes, Sharma, Graham and Adam Ondra.

So basically, Steve McClure, who is Britains best sport climber is saying British climbing is now lagging behind the rest of the world.

robertsonja

31-Aug-2009
6:35:34 PM

On 31/08/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 31/08/2009 robertsonja wrote:
>>It is interesting that a damp little island, with little cliffs can become
>>a world renowned hard climbing venue that has produced innumerable world
>>class climbers, in part due to strong ethics.
>>
>I gotta pull you up on this one. I give absolutely no f--- for what the
>british climbers want to do in britain. Don't base what we do here on what
>they do over there.....anymore than what they do in France or Czech or
>anywhere. There is way too much press cover of british climbing given the
>actual amount of climbing there.....self promotion on a Montyesque scale!

I was actually clearing up Brendan's point and raising an unrelated point of interest within that context.


wallwombat

31-Aug-2009
7:14:32 PM

I wasn't saying it was good or bad. I was simply relating what McClure said in the mag.

I couldn't care less.

Wendy

1-Sep-2009
7:42:13 AM

I'm just glad that oz climbing isn't moving towards (or back to!) headpointing. If people want to climb things they might die falling off, whatever floats their boat, I think it's good to have stuff around that raving lunatics can wander up and onsight, but when a whole culture revolves around working these things to death on top tope so you can basically solo them, it's not my idea of great climbing. I'm less disturbed by the odd discreet bolt to enable people to walk straight up to a route and climb it without this trad twist on sport climbing. Didn't we leave all that behind in the 80s?

simey

1-Sep-2009
9:29:03 PM

I agree with you Wendy. In fact I find the idea of having a whole crag full of dangerous testpieces that you might be lucky enough to climb once in your life when you are psyched and super-fit to be rather ridiculous. I'm all in favour of a few such routes, but they want to be the exception rather than the norm.


Chuck Norris

1-Sep-2009
10:44:26 PM

On 1/09/2009 simey wrote:
>I agree with you Wendy. In fact I find the idea of having a whole crag
>full of dangerous testpieces that you might be lucky enough to climb once
>in your life when you are psyched and super-fit to be rather ridiculous.
>I'm all in favour of a few such routes, but they want to be the exception
>rather than the norm.
>

I also don't get the whole headpointing thing, and also don't give a toss about a few bolts around the
place to keep crags moderately accessible.

However I can't see why certain crags/climbs that are easily toproped should be bolted at all (even
sparingly) to accommodate climbers preference of a "lead" ascent over a toproped one. And besides,
any route where the bolts are 2.5m or less apart is essentially a toprope with a bit of slack. So why go
to the bother if you can easily chuck a TR down it?


shortman

25-Oct-2012
2:51:18 PM

So what ended up happening to these bolts?

;)


ajfclark

25-Oct-2012
2:56:56 PM

Shhh you fool! Don't stir up this shit again!

anthonycuskelly

25-Oct-2012
6:14:43 PM

They were still there in May. I clipped them. Despite (or maybe because of?) his seemingly general bad mood, I'm with Simey on this one. Sure I could have gotten an anchor in, but it would've been vastly out of keeping with the rest of the climb...

widewetandslippery

25-Oct-2012
6:36:52 PM

When rodw does it his second time round he is going to put rungs in it.


Doug

25-Oct-2012
7:33:24 PM

We did Dribble a few days ago. I didn't even notice the bolts (although I'd seen them previously) as I was looking at the little wall above. I guess they didn't impinge on my experience of the route, maybe because II was more focused on cleaning off a lot of the vegetation that has sprouted on the route over the last couple of wet years. Maybe someone will complain about that too.
No-one seems fussed about the rap anchors atop Kestrel, so what's the gig deal here? You still need to build anchors for the other pitches. As someone said previously, Arapiles has always had bolts. I for one commend Simey for re-establishing this great easy classic. I'm looking forward to taking my grandchildren up it someday.


shortman

25-Oct-2012
8:02:54 PM

On 25/10/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>When rodw does it his second time round he is going to put rungs in it.

Sounds like a good idea.


Cool Hand Lock

25-Oct-2012
10:03:45 PM

I recently took possesion of 200+ bolts, plates and stations.

anyone need bolts?

There are 279 messages in this topic.