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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Bottom Feeders...

widewetandslippery

20/07/2009
8:50:00 AM

I'm pretty sure Geoffs first ascent was the first ascent after the chips had been filled. The route was originally chipped, climbed and named by a kraut called Ulf.


BundyBear

20/07/2009
11:08:44 AM

There is still a chip on HSJ near the last bolt.

widewetandslippery

20/07/2009
11:37:06 AM

Ulf was just in with the local cutting edge of the day.....

widewetandslippery

20/07/2009
1:43:53 PM

Wingello

widewetandslippery

20/07/2009
1:48:14 PM

Wingello Panther as much as I would like to chortle over re chipping in my experiennce it is done as badly as "fixing" chips. Queens Park?"

My cherished Cheesedale has suffered so as well but to much greater extent.

widewetandslippery

20/07/2009
2:04:43 PM

WP no chance. They are all different problems now. Kocking a few crystals and banging a jug are a difference. Plugging some epoxy or cement a differing more.

PS I always carry a screw driver.

widewetandslippery

20/07/2009
2:19:37 PM

WP steal a route of mine and I will kill you.

If you remove old space junk of mine, its yours. Thanks for cleaning up my mess. Just leave enough junk for the next over/zealous twit to go have a look.

widewetandslippery

20/07/2009
2:34:49 PM

Cool. Send me your details for this week. I am feeling ill.


Sonic

20/07/2009
9:14:54 PM

On 20/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>ACA description "Batman to first bolt past repaired chips then directly
>up to finish as for HSJ."
>
>I presume 'repaired' = 'filled in'. So the full project is still open!

Back on topic and yes the chips are filled in Neil.

Also, on further research I have found that the original description for Einstuevzende Neubatch in the earlier SRC guide says that the climb is a batman start, then aid past a really hard section, then traverses off right after 4th bolt, through jugs to anchor. Therefore, by this description the route finished at the Back Hand Tosser anchor, NOT as for Hip Shake Jerk. Therefore, in my opinion, the ACA description that has only sprung up a few days ago for Einstuevzende Neubatch is incorrect and the line we are climbing is a new link-up and if we can free the aid, which we intend to do, then it is a new route altogether.

By my reckoning, that makes all earlier comments about the project being open void. Or are now going to claim that the SRC guidebook has been wrong all this time and one infamous climber's word is right?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

21/07/2009
10:34:17 AM

On 20/07/2009 Sonic wrote:
>Also, on further research I have found that the original description for
>Einstuevzende Neubatch in the earlier SRC guide says (snip)

>and the line we are climbing is a new link-up and if we can free the aid, which we intend to do, then it is a new route altogether.
>
>By my reckoning, that makes all earlier comments about the project being open void.

If you did not know this information earlier then that begs the question of, 'perhaps the tagging of the route was not appropriate', at the time?
Depending on the information about the route known to mjw this further muddies the issues of their ascent(?), but not the removal of said tag.

It seems easier to me to have a completely independent line. I sympathise with guidebook authors trying to verify/sort these things out.
The melting pot of possibilities and personalities makes it an interesting game that climbers play!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

21/07/2009
2:24:08 PM

On 21/07/2009 Wingello Panther wrote:
>its not a new route if U free the aid. it is an old route now freed or
>in your case a portion of old route now freed.
>mebe thats what the 1st mob meant when they called it an open proj.

I agree with the (selective) quote above.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

21/07/2009
2:29:33 PM

Not weird. Just historical interpretation if I recall correctly.
(You still made a valid point. ☻)


adztcc

21/07/2009
3:32:15 PM

Well it’s been very interesting reading everyone’s thoughts.

The vague description in Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains does describe a different finish to the route. The line I rebolted goes left at the 4th bolt up into Hip Shake Jerk and the start If you batman to the first bolt and pull on to the obvious holds it could go a lot harder than 26 maybe 28? If you pull on the second bolt then climb up and over the bulge that feels 26...It could be that I’m just weak or Geoff is really strong?...It seems that this route has a very confusing mixed history.

I’m not too concerned with FFA's or who and what style it was climbed or what grade it is.

What I’m pissed off about is that this climber (if you can call him that) walks (grovels) around the crags doing what he likes. His behaviour is unacceptable and is in poor form! He is a bad example for future generations of climbers.

And you don’t take a tag off a route without an obvious reason which there isn't.

21/07/2009
4:00:38 PM

As a mexican, i feel it's my duty to go into bat for Mitch.
This seems more like an attack on mitch rather than his actions. He took the tape off the bolt.... um not a huge deal. .

Mitch has done alot of good work in NSW. The rebolting and track work he has done is pretty impressive and not appreciated. It's unfortunate that mitch steps on so many peoples toes, as he really doesn't deserve the bad rap he gets.


nmonteith

21/07/2009
5:04:45 PM

Mitch and I have had our disagreements over the years - BUT he is the opposite of a bottom feeder. A bottom feeder just clips someone elses bolts, craps in the woods, trashes the base of the cliff, lets their dog loose, throws their rubbish onto the ground and drives home. Mitch spends his time cleaning up after bottom feeders. He has done a hell of a lot to make climbing safer and more pleasant in NSW. Whilst I don't agree with what he (allegedly) has done in this incident - he generally does great things for the community.

One Day Hero

22/07/2009
10:54:13 AM

On 21/07/2009 nmonteith wrote:
A bottom feeder just clips someone elses bolts, craps
>in the woods, trashes the base of the cliff, lets their dog loose, throws
>their rubbish onto the ground and drives home.

Some true colours showing here. I'm not real impressed with the routebolting elite attitude on display. Does bolting the odd nonline give you the ability to float gently above the track, avoiding "trashing the base of the cliff"? Do you shit in a bag at thommo's and carry it out?
99% of climbers at the crag fit a chunk of your bottom feeder definition, so from the sludgy depths I'd like to extend a big warm f--- you to our drill owning superiors.


nmonteith

22/07/2009
11:04:42 AM

On 22/07/2009 One Day Hero wrote:
>Some true colours showing here. I'm not real impressed with the routebolting
>elite attitude on display. Does bolting the odd nonline give you the ability
>to float gently above the track, avoiding "trashing the base of the cliff"?
>Do you shit in a bag at thommo's and carry it out?
>99% of climbers at the crag fit a chunk of your bottom feeder definition,
>so from the sludgy depths I'd like to extend a big warm f--- you to our
>drill owning superiors.

It's not all about bolting. Mitch (and other rebolters) clean up others peoples shit (literally), removes their rubbish, rebuild tracks, install poles to stop erosion etc. Cliffcare is not just about drills and egos. You probably just haven't realized how much good work is being done though...

widewetandslippery

22/07/2009
11:19:15 AM

If a route is tagged it may be unsafe for some reason ie. a dicky bolt/glue or a massive block ready to kill. I always sabbotage my projects this way.

dalai

22/07/2009
11:45:20 AM

On 22/07/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>
>If a route is tagged it may be unsafe for some reason ie. a dicky bolt/glue
>or a massive block ready to kill. I always sabbotage my projects this way.

I find padlocking either a truck tyre or pots and pans to the bolts does the trick...


evanbb

22/07/2009
11:49:36 AM

On 22/07/2009 dalai wrote:
>On 22/07/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>
>>If a route is tagged it may be unsafe for some reason ie. a dicky bolt/glue
>>or a massive block ready to kill. I always sabbotage my projects this
>way.
>
>I find padlocking either a truck tyre or pots and pans to the bolts does
>the trick...

Oh, that's excellent.

There are 49 messages in this topic.