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Top ten very exposed climbs - give me your list


Pat

26-Jun-2009
5:14:18 PM

So I'm looking to get used to gut wrenching exposure. Give me your top ten most exposed climbs up to
grade 20 Araps and the Gramps. I'm looking for serious multi pitch or high climbs that are quality as well.


MisterGribble

26-Jun-2009
5:44:26 PM

Araps - Scorpion, Thunder Crack


IdratherbeclimbingM9

26-Jun-2009
5:51:06 PM

On 26/06/2009 Pat wrote:
>exposed climbs up to grade 20 Araps and the Gramps.

Why limit yourself? Maybe aid Passport to Insanity for example if you want some exposure?

>I'm looking for serious multi pitch or high climbs that are quality as well.

Why limit yourself? Try Ozymandias at Buffalo, De Gauls Nose at Frenchmans Cap, Out and Beyond at Warrumbungles, some runout slabs at Booroomba etc.

... or many others out there.

>So I'm looking to get used to gut wrenching exposure.

... ~> even on short climbs you can get that by only putting in half the protection that you would normally feel comfortable with!

^{^hehheh}heh.


D.Lodge

26-Jun-2009
6:06:59 PM

Bit outside your range but The Navigator at the gramps 21 and trinity wall at Araps also 21


Pat

26-Jun-2009
6:23:41 PM

Yep thanks M9. Would love to get there. Worthy climbs, but first would like to get a good head for
exposure. Fine on runout slabs. Need experience keeping my head together with the void snapping at my
heels. Thanks Lodge, I'm keeping an eye on the Navigator.

gfdonc

26-Jun-2009
8:28:36 PM

Ah, good thread, here's my list.
Trinity Wall, Pharos.
Goodbye to All That, Bluffs.
I didn't find Navigator all that exposed, the slabby bit in the middle eases things.
Lady Dihedral, Pharos.
of course second pitch of Oceanoid, Pharos.
second pitch of CS Concerto, Organ Pipes.
Kachoong. You're a long way up when you start.
possibly add The Desired, continuously fairly steep with some roofy-bits.
Scorpion. That step across ..
Resignation

26-Jun-2009
9:21:43 PM

the upper pitches of Rosea routes get quite airy, plenty of great sub-20s there.
you didn't include buffalo but Defender of the Faith LHF (rap-in 40m 19) would almost be the airiest sub-20 in Vic and it's great too. but not for winter!
araps is never all that airy imo


evanbb

27-Jun-2009
6:49:45 AM

I'm helping!

Totally not in the area you want, but the most exposed climbing I've ever done is at Point Perp. Over the Yard Arm is the best 14 I've done; airy as anything, with a slightly run out thought provoking finish. Even Room With A View, which is an 11 has set some hearts racing.

I'd say it's one of the best and most exposed crags in Oz. God I love it there. Better get back there ASAP


pmonks

27-Jun-2009
7:10:15 AM

On 27/06/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Totally not in the area you want, but the most exposed climbing I've ever
>done is at Point Perp.

Couldn't agree more - nothing at Araps (or really any inland crag I've been to) comes close to Pt Perp for gut wrenching, bowel loosening exposure.

Elspeth is probably the best 10m grade 14 climb in the universe - it's completely safe yet absolutely terrifying!!

>I'd say it's one of the best and most exposed crags in Oz.

If not the world!

Wendy

27-Jun-2009
8:13:44 AM

Doesn't Simey have a list in his 12 tick lists in the new guide? I'd look it up, but I'm weighed down by a cat on my lap.

If you really aren't used to exposure, you don't need to do anything particularly hard to get a sense of it. Try Agamemnon, Eskimo Nell, Blockbuster or Arachnus. Think of exposure as your friend - it usually means there's nothing to hit if you come off. There's a world of difference between exposed and serious. Do you actually want serious? Like Open Season, Lois Lane or Terminal Drive at a lower grade?


evanbb

27-Jun-2009
9:28:34 AM

I even think Muldoon is quite exposed. Just the way you poke your head around the corner, and suddenly there's a yawning void. Spectacular climbing too, one of my faves.


foreverabumbly

27-Jun-2009
9:30:29 AM

On 27/06/2009 Wendy wrote:
>Doesn't Simey have a list in his 12 tick lists in the new guide? I'd look
>it up, but I'm weighed down by a cat on my lap.
>
I just happen to have it open infront of me:

LOST IN SPACE
Bard
Muldoon
Lamplighter
Resignation
Checkmate
Oceonoid
Trinity Wall
Los Endos
Boy Racer
Arms Race
Station to Station
Anxiety Neurosis

SCARE TACTICS:
Intransience
Lois Lane
Breezin
Derilium Tremens
Open Season
Terminal Drive
Bad Cheques
Ride like the wind
Sufficiently Alarming
Tjuringa
Heimweh
Fully loaded

though by looking at the list, it seems you can only be scared if you climb 23 and above. Having only climbed that hard on sport (which doesnt really count :D) - I guess I dont really know what the feeling is like!

I think Rock put out a list in the 'Scary' issue a while back as well


ajfclark

27-Jun-2009
11:00:48 AM

On 27/06/2009 foreverabumbly wrote:
>I just happen to have it open infront of me:
>though by looking at the list, it seems you can only be scared if you climb 23 and above.
>I think Rock put out a list in the 'Scary' issue a while back as well

I just happen to have it beside me and it's also 24 or above... Their top five heart rate modifying climbs were:

Delirium Tremens (24) (also a nice beer)
Ride like the wind (25/26)
Tjuringa (25)
Lois Lane (24)
Terminal Drive (24)

The smaller side bar contained this list:

Heimweh (26)
Breezin' (24)
Run it out sucker (24)
Sufficiently Alarming (25)
Bad Cheques (24)

rockotter

27-Jun-2009
6:08:40 PM

The Wolgan and the Grose valleys come to mind, come up to the Blueys and try Mike Laws fantastic Bladderhosen(22) and Hotel California(22 ha ha) at Pierces Pass or out in the Wolgan on Old Baldy try Excaliber(17) or Planet Waves(18) at the Coke Ovens to name but a few.
At Araps, I think I was the most gripped by exposure on Kachoong but I have enough fear in my life and will probably never submit myself to Scorpion a route that scared me the moment I saw it ; )

Mike Bee

27-Jun-2009
6:37:26 PM

I know you asked for stuff at Araps, but if you have a few extra litres of petrol in your car, Moonarie isn't that far away....

There are some classic, exposed climbs at Moonarie that have definite brown stain potential. Hangover Layback (15), Pagoda (15), Flying Butress (15) and Outside Chance/Buckley's (16/17) to name but a few. Of course, the grades on these aren't necessarily accurate...


Zebedee

28-Jun-2009
12:35:47 AM

Exposure to air or exposure to death? I ask a again anybody been on Elmer Thud? Pretty sure you would feel exposed!


pmonks

28-Jun-2009
5:36:26 AM

On 27/06/2009 rockotter wrote:
>The Wolgan and the Grose valleys come to mind

Oh yeah - that reminds me of a good one: "Advanced Air Studios" (25m 19) at Bald Head in the Grose. It's a well protected, modern (glue in ring bolts) sport route, but it climbs above (and sometime a little underneath) an overhanging arete perched 200 odd metres above the Grose. One of the more appropriate route names I've seen! Even the abseil in is pants filling!!

I'd still rate Elspeth as more exposed though - weird that, for me at least, being 80m above the ocean is more terrifying than being 200m above the ground.


evanbb

28-Jun-2009
7:02:25 AM

On 28/06/2009 pmonks wrote:
>I'd still rate Elspeth as more exposed though - weird that, for me at
>least, being 80m above the ocean is more terrifying than being 200m above
>the ground.

Because the ground doesn't move. I've climbed at PP in a big swell and it was very, ah, distracting.

paz

28-Jun-2009
1:48:51 PM

strangers eliminate at araps, 20 i think at Turinga wall


wombly

28-Jun-2009
7:33:54 PM

Not super exposed, but i found checkmate on bard buttress a bit out there.

There are 66 messages in this topic.