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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 5 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 174
Author
WARNING: 169 kg breaking strength lower offs.

Cranky
23/04/2009
9:20:03 PM
U bolts seem to wear fairly guickly when people lower off on them.
Why not put a shackle on the U bolt (or bolts), at least it would be easy to replace.

muki
23/04/2009
10:13:10 PM
That's what I do with U's, But rather than a regular shackle, that twists the ropes as they run through, I
use a stainless steel twist shackle, that allows the ropes to run in a straight line, no twists, clean pull.

nmonteith
23/04/2009
10:59:21 PM
On 23/04/2009 bomber pro wrote:
>That's what I do with U's, But rather than a regular shackle, that twists
>the ropes as they run through, I
>use a stainless steel twist shackle, that allows the ropes to run in a
>straight line, no twists, clean pull.

...or just place the u-bolt horizontally and use a regular shackle. i've placed a few jumbo horizontal u's recently with leg spacing of about 20cm for single point lower-off anchors (they look like a Via Ferrata rung). One of the advantages of this setup is that the rope never wears on one point of the u-bolt as the rope can shift across a large surface area (ie 20cm or horizontal wear surface). I've not seen anyone create anchors like this before. Can anyone think of any downsides of this?
devlin66
23/04/2009
11:59:31 PM
If the horizontal section of the U isn't perfectly level the rope will naturally slide to the lowest point. Also if the belayer or where the rope runs through the biner on the last bolt isn't exactly under the U it will always be pulled to that side. I saw photo's of some that Lee Cujes used recently, I think his are about 200mm wide. I like the idea and it has some merit but if the belayer always belays from the same spot and it isn't perfectly in line it's always going to pull to the side they are on.

I believe two anchors with sufficient space between them with replaceable wear points of either rated clip and go's or shackle.

rodw
24/04/2009
6:57:37 AM
Yeah I reckon two lowers off is still better than one, even with one large spaced U'd if either leg falls and pulls from rock (ie rock gives way etc) rope could slip off..unlikely but stil no redundancy if its does...plus it looks ugly as its big...no worse than a big chain though I suppose.

Re Twisted shackles...only really needed in high traffics areas/routes ...can be placed after FA once you see how popular route is or if bolts start to show wear..they aint cheap. Also problem with them if they flip over and people use em upside-down the rope going over he shaft when lowering off can un-thread it and cause them to fail.

When using them I prefer to setup rings with one higher then the other at about 45 degrees and put a shackle on the top one. person threads lower bolt then upper shackle.. has several benefits,

1/ shackle takes all the wear on lower off which can be replaced easier

2/ Only need one shackle and if it fails second threaded bolt backs up.

3/ Reduces twist on rings when lowering off as opposed to rings placed side by side. (not a problem with U's though)

Down side is some wankers see em as booty.
yankinoz
7/06/2009
9:10:52 AM
There's a pair of these on Lardy Lady's Lats (Shipley Upper) - the top one is very well worn but I didn't see any cracks. There's a U bolt there you can thread if you are nervous.
WM
26/06/2009
9:07:38 PM
at the top of Tickled Pink (the 25 just left of Still Life at Thompson's Point Nowra) the anchor is a SINGLE dodgy wiregate and it is ALREADY SIGNIFICANTLY CRACKED, almost as badly as the one shown in Mikl's first post in this thread. interestingly it has had no loading on the spine like the original one at Shipley had, but it is still well cracked. the malion is beyond finger tight so I couldn't remove it

Why TF anyone thinks single point anchors are ok is beyond me.

or maybe it just goes to show that you don't get soft 25s for nuthin'. PS can anyone tell me what the extension goes at?

nmonteith
26/06/2009
9:21:41 PM
On 26/06/2009 WM wrote:
> PS can anyone tell me what the extension goes at?

27 - its a Mitch route listed on ACA.
Jark1
26/06/2009
10:02:52 PM
Mike and I took them off lardy lady the other day, I think Mike's gonna test em, stay tuned!

nmonteith
8/07/2009
4:31:52 PM
On 26/06/2009 WM wrote:
>at the top of Tickled Pink (the 25 just left of Still Life at Thompson's
>Point Nowra) the anchor is a SINGLE dodgy wiregate and it is ALREADY SIGNIFICANTLY
>CRACKED, almost as badly as the one shown in Mikl's first post in this
>thread. interestingly it has had no loading on the spine like the original
>one at Shipley had, but it is still well cracked. the malion is beyond
>finger tight so I couldn't remove it

I removed this lower-off anchor on the weekend. It was certainly cracked. I've given it to Mikl to test.

nmonteith
8/07/2009
5:42:23 PM
p.s. - I spoke to Mitch about these anchors on the weekend as well, and he reckons it's probably worth sending these anchors back to the manufacturers (or Australian importers). They need to be made aware that these are way below par, even for sailing purposes (their original design purpose).

tnd
8/07/2009
6:10:12 PM
There's one on top of Sloth (16) at the Fossil Cave Environs area. Attached with a maillon which I didn't have a spanner for. No cracks. Best to climb on and use the Everything but the Wasp anchor.

anthonyk
8/07/2009
6:31:03 PM
On 3/04/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>Hate to burst your bubble - but most of the chains, shackles and mallions
>used on anchors are unrated and come from hardware stores (or the tow bar
>of 4WD's in darkened carparks). I have no issue with using these sort of
>items, but there always needs to be redundancy in the system. Relying on
>one of these clip and go biners is the problem.

there's quite a few anchor set ups around the fossil cave area where there isn't really an option to do anything redundantly. i think 3 of the routes i did there had single biners (whch i didn't trust), but threading anything else wasn't easy because there was just a small chain going to the bolts, which is tricky enough to thread the rope through, which gets pinched, and impossible to do redundantly.

nmonteith
20/07/2009
9:36:06 AM
POPRAN on the Central Coast has these dangerous cast anchors on almost every route (at least 10 of them there). Most were doubled up, but there was at least one route relying on a single one (the main arete). I didn't have a spanner with me and the mallion was glued up anyway, but I managed to remove the wire gate from the biner to disable it and left behind a booty screwgate instead. Someone local should fix these up ASAP.

I'm beginning to think there was almost none of the 'good' versions of these anchors ever sold?!
mikl law
20/07/2009
5:11:22 PM
The so called 20 one the pocketed wall, Thompson's Point, has a pair, for the moment.
tas alex
2/05/2011
8:38:54 AM
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but As far as I can tell there is one ofthese 10mm cast single point lower offs on invisible fist. Didn't appear cracked but I didn't look too hard, and I left a Biner on another bolt. Someone local should perhaps look into it as it is fairly high traffic and many people used it as a single point to lower off. It's captive on the u-bolt so will require some effort to get off.

Just thought I'd let you guys know, if you didnt already

nmonteith
2/05/2011
11:07:13 AM
Good chance that you are right. I installed that ubolt and clip and go several years ago and it was during the time that the dodgy versions were in circulation. I can't believe people are just lowering off one bolt though...
Wm
19/07/2011
10:13:39 PM
On 2/05/2011 tas alex wrote:
>Sorry to bring up an old thread, but As far as I can tell there is one
>ofthese 10mm cast single point lower offs on invisible fist.
Confirmed

> Didn't appear cracked
Actually cracking has begun, not as far progressed as others recently, but it's on it's way. The other bolt on the anchor is a pretty dodgy rusty original so it doesn't offer much redundancy

> It's captive on the u-bolt so will require some effort to get off.
Yep, someone needs to get up there with a hacksaw. A second biner on the same bolt (the good new U-bolt) might help in the meantime

nmonteith
19/07/2011
11:19:18 PM
On 19/07/2011 Wm wrote:
>> It's captive on the u-bolt so will require some effort to get off.
>Yep, someone needs to get up there with a hacksaw. A second biner on the
>same bolt (the good new U-bolt) might help in the meantime

An easy way to disable these dodgy biners is to remove the wire gate itself. You can do this easily with your fingers - just pinch the two sides and the wire comes out of two small holes at the base of the biner. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE DO THIS ASAP ON THIS BINER!

harold
Online Now
20/07/2011
10:24:43 AM
Just to add to the list, there are a pair on Redex at Werribee Gorge. They look fine but probably should be change in the future.

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There are 174 messages in this topic.

 

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