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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 174
Author
WARNING: 169 kg breaking strength lower offs.
mikl law
17/03/2009
12:05:37 PM
after having tried to get good closeups, I must say that it's a good one

Cranky
20/03/2009
12:49:24 PM
Those nasty 'bad' lower offs at the top of Mental Fatigue at Berowra have been replaced by shiny new 'good' lower offs.
Thanks for the info Mr Mikl and Mr Hawkman.
psd
20/03/2009
12:56:08 PM
Thanks Cranky - nice work.

Hawkman
20/03/2009
1:16:37 PM
hi cranky, great work. Perhaps mikl could test these non cracked ones?

atreyudelacy
20/03/2009
7:52:47 PM
On 16/03/2009 gfdonc wrote:
>OK crew with the aid of Mikl's pics and my typing we now have a warning
>sheet.
>

Nice work on this... If its not too late to offer a suggestion?

Perhaps a brief description of the breaking strength in terms of a person being lowered off would add
more urgency to the warning.

eg. "this is equivelant to an 85kg climber being lowered off".... something along those lines... as i
would anticipate that some people out there might think that "i weigh heaps less than 169kg...
therefore its not something to be overly worried about"

Also, perhaps where you quote the 169kg breaking strength you could also put the respective kN value
in brackets i.e. "169kg (1.69kN)"... so when you tell people that the biners should be stamped with
14kN, they realise how little 169kg actually is....

I know these things may seems obvious to most.... but even in my very limited couple of years
climbing, i have seen some real dumb f***ers......

Just a suggestion.
TonyB
21/03/2009
7:12:48 AM
On 20/03/2009 atreyudelacy wrote:
>climbing, i have seen some real dumb f***ers......

It is always worth remembering that half the population is below average intelligence.
Lee C
21/03/2009
8:56:46 PM
Replaced one of these little guys with some biners at Diamond Falls today. It would be great Mike if you
made a video of you breaking it. It doesn't seem fair that you have all the fun. I'll pass it your way next
time your in the mountains.
hotgemini
21/03/2009
10:02:44 PM
On 21/03/2009 TonyB wrote:
>It is always worth remembering that half the population is below average
>intelligence.

Your understanding of statistics implies you might be below the median.
TonyB
22/03/2009
8:07:02 AM
On 21/03/2009 hotgemini wrote:
>On 21/03/2009 TonyB wrote:
>>It is always worth remembering that half the population is below average
>>intelligence.
>
>Your understanding of statistics implies you might be below the median.

While intelligence, or at least the common estimate of it as IQ, is usually asumed to be to normally distributed, there is evidence that this is not exactly correct, particularly with regard to the heavy tails of the distribution (high kurtosis). One study also found a Karl Pearson B1 (skewness) = 0.048, which for this purpose, is sufficient to approximate the median to the average.

What is clear however is that your sense of humour might be below average !

My initial proposition contributes to an explanation as to why half of climbing accidents are the fault of the other bloke.
devlin66
22/03/2009
11:40:17 PM
Does that explain why half of the married population are women?
tastybigmac
23/03/2009
10:12:37 PM
nerd alert!
mikl law
24/03/2009
7:26:23 AM
On 20/03/2009 Cranky wrote:
>Those nasty 'bad' lower offs at the top of Mental Fatigue at Berowra have
>been replaced by shiny new 'good' lower offs.

As Herr Dr Professor Hawkshaw suggested, could I test these?

Cranky
24/03/2009
5:25:45 PM
On 24/03/2009 mikl law wrote:
>On 20/03/2009 Cranky wrote:
>>Those nasty 'bad' lower offs at the top of Mental Fatigue at Berowra
>have
>>been replaced by shiny new 'good' lower offs.
>
>As Herr Dr Professor Hawkshaw suggested, could I test these?

Yep. No problem, PM me with details of where to send them or drop them off
Jark1
24/03/2009
6:45:22 PM
Mike
I lowered off 2 of these bad boys on Trix on the weekend. I suspect with my hugh girth they would have been loaded almost to the max!

Rat Man
26/03/2009
5:25:01 PM
I've put the poster up at The Lactic Factory,
Christian
mikl law
26/03/2009
5:38:10 PM
Ta muchly
Most of them are ok, but we can't tell which ones are
mikl law
31/03/2009
12:17:16 PM
Some differences between the good ones and bad ones

The one on the left is cast, has a '10' visible on it, and has a different gate notch

"Cranky" pointed out the notches were different when he replaced some of the cast units at Berowra

Cast biner has a flat notch


bent wire biner has a more postive notch

Cranky
2/04/2009
5:55:09 PM
Here are a couple of pictures showing my concern about the replacement lower offs at Berowra.
This is the type of Stainless lower off used.

This is my concern with the notch.

As shown in the photo above, the wire gate does not 'lock' when closed, therefore the strength of the stainless bar is the only thing being relied upon.
These lower offs were purchased from a boating supplies shop, Bias Boating at Artarmon.
Sorry about the fuzzy image.
devlin66
2/04/2009
10:31:21 PM
Given the normally low static loading that these biners see I think the non locking is not a problem. Have them placed so the gates face opposite ways when clipped. Unfortunately this doesn't stop someone from clipping them both teh same way which would make the chance of the rope unclipping a lot higher. What to do?
patto
2/04/2009
10:37:37 PM
As I see it these things are unlikely to be much stronger than the open gate strength of other biners. I'm not sure I'd want to be rappping of those. Sure rapping loads are much less than even the open gate strength of these things but that is beside the point.

Why are we putting up fixed gear that is significantly below standard.

I doubt these would hold much over 10kN.

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There are 174 messages in this topic.

 

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