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Chockstone Photography
Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 7 of 9. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 173
Author
WARNING: 169 kg breaking strength lower offs.

shortman
24-Jul-2011
9:04:36 PM
Mike - Was that your work we saw out at Werribee today? There appeared to be new bright dangly things hanging atop all that hard sport sh#t that I aint good enough to climb.
Twinkle twinkle.

Miguel75
25-Jul-2011
9:58:57 AM
On 24/07/2011 shortman wrote:
>Mike - Was that your work we saw out at Werribee today? There appeared
>to be new bright dangly things hanging atop all that hard sport sh#t that
>I aint good enough to climb.
>Twinkle twinkle.

No, I haven't received the anchors as yet, and I have Kidney stones keeping me occupied;) it sounds like someone's already done the hard work. Dan can you confirm if the anchors atop Redex were also new?

It sounds like you're moving through the climbs there Dan. Give yourself another few days and you'll nail 'em all... Try Tina the ballerina or Babara S.

StuckNut
25-Jul-2011
12:01:38 PM
On 25/07/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>No, I haven't received the anchors as yet, and I have Kidney stones keeping
>me occupied;) it sounds like someone's already done the hard work. Dan
>can you confirm if the anchors atop Redex were also new?

We only spied the anchors from the bottom of the crag(the cavers doing abseil/jugging practise on Redex would have got a better look!). We weren't sure if you'd got out there sat or not, so more than likely they are still the old anchors.

That is unless Dan ran a quick solo lap on Redex to get a better view when I wasn't looking!

shortman
25-Jul-2011
12:09:24 PM
On 25/07/2011 StuckNut wrote:
>On 25/07/2011 Miguel75 wrote:
>>No, I haven't received the anchors as yet, and I have Kidney stones keeping
>>me occupied;) it sounds like someone's already done the hard work. Dan
>>can you confirm if the anchors atop Redex were also new?
>
>We only spied the anchors from the bottom of the crag(the cavers doing
>abseil/jugging practise on Redex would have got a better look!). We weren't
>sure if you'd got out there sat or not, so more than likely they are still
>the old anchors.
>
>That is unless Dan ran a quick solo lap on Redex to get a better view
>when I wasn't looking!

It was during your third nature turd! Just ran a few laps to keep warm!
And ur right though, could be the old ones sparkling in the rain.

Miguel75
25-Jul-2011
4:46:34 PM
The replacement biners arrived today (thanks Steve) and I'll try to get out there in the next few days.

Miguel75
30-Jul-2011
11:15:40 AM
UPDATE: I replaced the lower-offs at the top of Redex this morning. Thanks again to Steve at climbinganchors.com.au for providing the new biners. It's a bit hard to see in the pic but the biners are captive so they'll stay put!

New shiny anchors below;



ajfclark
30-Jul-2011
12:32:58 PM
Thanks Mikey!

shortman
30-Jul-2011
4:25:04 PM
Good on ya Mike!

nmonteith
31-Jul-2011
10:32:23 PM
How did you remove the bad ones?

Miguel75
31-Jul-2011
10:52:33 PM
On 31/07/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>How did you remove the bad ones?

With great difficulty, and a hacksaw. It was an awesome morning though; sun, solitude and a few birds of prey.

nmonteith
1-Aug-2011
7:45:25 AM
Any signs of hairline cracking on the biners?

Miguel75
1-Aug-2011
8:49:05 AM
On 1/08/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Any signs of hairline cracking on the biners?

None that were visible to my naked eyes. They looked in pretty good condition though the new ones look much better;)

kezza
15-Aug-2011
12:30:37 PM
Any chance there could be one of these at Upper Tribute in the Gramps? The 21, Black Sabbath. It had one that looked like these lower offs and a snap link biner attached to the other ring bolt.
I cant be 100% as I only vaugely remembered this thread at the time. But it had no obvious weld and no gaps at the circle attachment to the bolt bit... (Is that as clear as mud?)
kp
15-Aug-2011
1:38:08 PM
Yeah kez that one is the same as the ones in this thread.... There is a few of these in the gramps.

Climboholic
15-Aug-2011
3:04:21 PM
Any opinions on if it is necessary to lock wire D-shackles? I came across some at Point Claire last weekend which were loose. So I tightenend them with my Leatherman and lock wired them with some excess cable I found.

In the aircraft industry we lockwire everything so it makes me uncomfortable trusting my life to something that could just be finger tight.
mikllaw
15-Aug-2011
5:09:22 PM
On 15/08/2011 Climboholic wrote:
>Any opinions on if it is necessary to lock wire D-shackles?

Good idea, particularly if they work loose.
I keep forgetting all my tools and have used biner gates in funky ways to tighten things

nmonteith
15-Aug-2011
6:39:41 PM
On 15/08/2011 kezza wrote:
>Any chance there could be one of these at Upper Tribute in the Gramps?
>The 21, Black Sabbath.

Yep. That is certainly a death trap biner that needs replacing.

nmonteith
13-Nov-2011
8:27:58 PM
On 23/04/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>RED ROCKS - GRAMPIANS
>
>I've just been told that the clip and go anchors on at least two of my
>routes at Red Rocks (Victoria Ranges) have the bad style of clip-and-go
>anchors. VARIANCE and ONE RING TO BIND THEM are both equipped with SINGLE
>point clips and go anchors which should be treated with extreme caution.

I have FIXED these anchors since no local could be bothered doing it! I have added an extra bolt and rap ring to each lower-off and removed the wire gate from the dangerous clip and go anchors. So now just thread the original u-bolt plus the new ring and lower away to safety.

Miguel75
13-Nov-2011
9:18:55 PM
Thanks Neil.

nmonteith
13-Nov-2011
9:29:51 PM
So if my memory serves me right there are three remaining of those clip-and-go death biners in the Grampians. They are...

Invisible Fist - Taipan Wall. There is an old backup bolt already in place. I have no idea if people are sensible enough to use it - or they are just lowering off the single clip-and-go for convenience sake.

Forever Young - Koalasquasty Wall, Hollow Mtn. This is another of the deadly single point anchors with no redundancy. If would be great if a local could disable or remove the clip-and-go ASAP.

Back Stabbath - Upper Tribute, Hollow Mtn. There is a backup bolt and biner already in place. No great urgency to remove the clip and go - but if someone could do it that would be grand.

The easiest way to disable one of these is to just remove the actual wire bit of the wire-gate. I found using a small pair of leatherman pliers i could easily remove it. Takes a moment and could save a life. With the wire gone people will just thread the bomber wide u-bolt instead.

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There are 173 messages in this topic.

 

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