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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
THE AUSTRALIAN RETRO/RE-BOLTING OPEN FORUM

FatBoy
5/02/2004
1:03:08 PM
Hex is clearly a fan of Dinkum's ... I suspect they know each other. I'm not convinced Dinkum knows CLEARLY the goals of RBV (as stated by Hex), especially when he quotes them as being the "Bolt Victoria Project" to FOTG, rangers, etc. There's a f---ing big difference between "Bolt" and "Re-bolt".

Rich
5/02/2004
1:07:04 PM
It's pretty obvious what hex, aka troll, is doing just by looking at the title of the thread.. Who said anything about retro bolting and why put the bloody thing in caps. Ignore the tosser as well as this piggy idiot.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
5/02/2004
5:27:55 PM
Rich Ham said;
>ignore the tosser
I might be missing the obvious, but if hex is a troll then he/she is a well researched one.

I'm not too sure about the troll status myself, but it matters little in the scheme of things; ... (even though I am not fond of trolls style or presentation). I guess I am prepared to give the benefit of the doubt from previous experience of dismissing contributions too readily!

Anonymity certainly reduces credibility though...

Phil S
5/02/2004
8:29:35 PM
>ignore the tosser

C'mon Hex - Time to move on.

hex-TROLL
5/02/2004
10:21:17 PM
A5--- being so democratic will only cause you grief,dude.Better for you to blend with the masses. Good luck ,bro.
Retro-Bolting Munkpuz : Clearly , replacing the tat with a bolt IS retro-bolting. HB's contribrution to Australian rock climbing defies description.HOWEVER : if the tat is down-right dangerous, then replace it with a bolt. The route is clearly a 'sport-climb', so one new bolt won't matter a toss IN THIS PARTICULAR CASE. The '(very) do-gooder' who does the retro-bolting can then take both ownership of and responsibility for, the route. This is a case of GOOD retro-bolting, vsv, lots of potenial injuries out of character with such a sport-climb.
It's only when 1 becomes 2,3,4,5,etc new bolts added to a previously well protected mixed route (such as Seize The Day ) , that the broader climbing culture degenerates into 'the sport-climbing template'
Jerry moffat , caused quite a stir at a British Mountaineering Council 'forum' when he said : " If a climb has 7 bolts and 1 nut, then I would be in favour of placing the 8th bolt"
Taking the Puzzle out of the Monkey.
Luv, HEX-(S)TROLL

mousey
5/02/2004
11:11:40 PM
your comments supporting the placing of extra bolts on monkey puzzle may be logical in terms of safety, but i personally would (as im sure many other would) MUCH rather retain the original style of the climb, even if it means a little more ball-factor is required to send it. As the tat may be reaching the end of its life, a replacement may be in order sometime in the near future though I highly doubt that many climbers would like to see stainless go in instead.
As for the retro bolter claiming ownership over the climb- BULLSHIT!!!!!
apart from the fact that no retrobolting is good retrobolting (my own humble opinion which i suspect many reputable climbers do not agree with-fine by me) you cant come along and stick some extra steel in someone elses line and call it your own. thats bullshit for ANY route, let alone a highly respected HB line-
also, claiming that adding the bolt wont matter a toss is incorrect as it changes the whole vibe of the climb
its probably best, hex, should you ever have any urge to put steel in rock, that you liberally dispense gaffa tape in a most self-restraining way- if you try retro a classic and claim it you'll end up ringbolted by your scrotum from the top of taipan wall (or something of the like)

hex-TROLL
6/02/2004
12:06:55 AM
Mickey---we're talkin' ONE bolt, dude. The 'arguments' for keeping/replacing the tat have been done to death in the 'other' forum. The bottom line seems to be HB's 'permission'.
How many metres either side of the route does he 'own' anyway ? Does he 'own' the'vibe' of the route too ? The surrounding rock is total sport-climbing 'vibe' (bolts 'n' chalk ).
You can be assured 'the troll' has placed a few bolts.
Re your final comments : Thats the 'vibe' the 'stiff upper lips' gave to Moffat !
Good to see you can handle your self in an 'open' forum.
Luv, hex-(S)TROLL.

Wonderdog
6/02/2004
10:12:14 AM
Hey hex-TROLL, your opinion might be worth 2 cents if we knew who you were... for my 2 cents worth... nobody 'owns' a route. It was there before HB came along, and will be there when he is dust and history (in many fruitfull years time one hopes!). However, it is about RESPECT. So it isn't as safe as playing lawn bowls... I'm sure your ego could find something else to climb? I am all for replacing old bolts with new (Great work Neil!) but retrobolting is a distinct lack of respect for the route, history and the first ascentionist, be it HB, me or you (if you put up routes?) If you establish a route, I would also defend that route from retrobolting.
BA
6/02/2004
10:47:13 AM
Hex TROLL seems a lot like a Greg Pritchard nom de guerre to me. Dulux, Angel Black, Hero Fukutu and now Hex Troll? Note the play with the word hex - a piece of climbing equipment and a spell cast by a witch (warlock or whatever). Hex's (whoever he/she is) posts have got the cauldron boiling and that seems a typical Pritchard aim.
climbingjac
6/02/2004
1:57:46 PM
Just for the record, it is my opinion that particularly in the case of reputable climbers such as HB; you don't touch their route without permission. For the record, the tat is not unsafe. However, just because he doesn't waste his time replying to ridiculous forum topics like this, doesn't mean he isn't quietly contemplating the potential re-addressing of the "tat". Don't be touching it, girls and boys, he's planning to address it himself. Now stop whinging!

hex-TROLL
6/02/2004
3:12:24 PM
Wonderdog---Cuttin'-sick on the 7th dimension, dude !!! You are totally fluent in 'hex-speak'. Your ethical drift is the best of both centuries and a great contribution to Australian rock climbing. Luv , hex-TROLL.

BA---aaawwwww pleeeeeeeese!!! Luv , hex-TROLL.

Climbingjac---To you we give ' The vessel of womanhood ' within Austalian climbing. Don't let the Grade 25 trad-resistance-level stop you from pursuing ascents, such as The Great Shark Hunt(30),(with or without clipping the bolt at the off-width) Luv , hex-TROLL .
climbingjac
6/02/2004
3:37:18 PM
hex-Troll: I must admit, I don't really understand what you're saying!!! You're either taking the p#ss or agreeing with me. Either way, I was trying to say: for heaven's sake people... stop your whining. You're quite happy to clip bolts, and repeat climbs that others have gone to the bother of putting up. Must we listen to the same whining all the time??!! People such as Neil Monteith, Malcolm Matheson and other such individuals are not cowboys with bolting guns etc. Their craft is highly specialised and extensively researched. Furthermore, every bolt, piece of fixed sling, or replacement thereof, is always considered at painstaking lengths, to ensure that issues such as safety, ethics etc are covered off. For heaven's sake people, these guys put a lot of time in for the benefit of the rest of us. Perhaps it might be nice to pat them on the back for a change, rather than all this constant b#tching. There you go. My piece said.

With any lucky, this will spark an interesting conversation to keep me awake the rest of the day :-)

jac
gfdonc
6/02/2004
3:53:52 PM
A bolting gun! Now there's a thought ... Mastriani (sp?) eat your heart out ..
- Steve

mousey
6/02/2004
5:26:26 PM
god damn jac, its good to get a post on here from someone who;
a) makes sense
b) isnt full of shit
c) tells us who they are
etc etc....i have the up most respect for what your doing for the womens climbing community and climbing as a whole and your opinions (apart from baing entirely correct as far as i am concerned) are a refreshing change from hex's - who comes across as something of an arse

hex-TROLL
6/02/2004
5:43:36 PM
Wonderdog---I'm not taking the piss.
BA---I AM taking the piss.
Climbingjac---I'm not taking the piss.'Best role-mole in Australia' was tempting , BUT...
More 'girl-power' to you ,dude ("Don't call me dude !!!" ).As has already been said :HB's contribution etc,etc,etc. It's good you have assured all that he is 'planning to address'. The less climbing injuries, especially on 'them sport-climb things' , the less DOT-GOV has to 'bitch,winge,flak 'n' spray' about. The wider-community seems to 'understand' people getting killed or injured(occasionally) on 'adventure' climbs,canyons,mountains,etc .(statement of the century ! ).
It's important to consider that 'all forums are equal, but some forums are more equal than others' . That is why it is essential to have ,at times, VERY 'robust' things said WITHIN the 'climbing community' , before DOT-GOV's FORUM 'has to take action' because there are 'shocking' numbers of people getting brain injuries (Neil's mind-boggling 5metre ground-fall video says it all ! ).As has already been acknowledged 'replacing rust is good '---its the 'all areas are ok to re-bolt' approach that is adding a bit of 'scrotum from a bat ' to the 'cauldron'
Make sure that 'shade' your heading for isn't the shadow of you buddy about to land on your head !
Go the bros , go the bras !
Luv , hex-(S)TROLL
Joe
6/02/2004
5:56:32 PM
On 5/02/2004 Mighty Mouse wrote:
>I highly doubt that many climbers would like
>to see stainless go in instead.

I think you will find that this is not true... I have talked to a number of people who have done or tried this route that would prefer a bolt. Monkey puzzle is not a "ball-factor" route.
Cheers, Joe

mousey
6/02/2004
6:01:58 PM
thanks for the info joe,
i havent personally done the route- my statement was born merely out of the will to maintain the original nature of the climb

hex-TROLL
7/02/2004
8:12:07 PM
Joe---thanks for the contribution ,dude . Between you and Jerry Moffat, (&HB) , the Puzzle has probably been solved.

Luv, hex-TROLL.
kieranl
8/02/2004
11:14:53 PM
On 6/02/2004 hex-TROLL wrote:
>Wonderdog---I'm not taking the piss.
>BA---I AM taking the piss.
>Climbingjac---I'm not taking the piss.'Best role-mole in Australia' was
>tempting , BUT...
>More 'girl-power' to you ,dude ("Don't call me dude !!!" ).As has already
>been said :HB's contribution etc,etc,etc. It's good you have assured all
>that he is 'planning to address'. The less climbing injuries, especially
>on 'them sport-climb things' , the less DOT-GOV has to 'bitch,winge,flak
>'n' spray' about. The wider-community seems to 'understand' people getting
>killed or injured(occasionally) on 'adventure' climbs,canyons,mountains,etc
>.(statement of the century ! ).
>It's important to consider that 'all forums are equal, but some forums
>are more equal than others' . That is why it is essential to have ,at times,
>VERY 'robust' things said WITHIN the 'climbing community' , before DOT-GOV's
>FORUM 'has to take action' because there are 'shocking' numbers of people
>getting brain injuries (Neil's mind-boggling 5metre ground-fall video says
>it all ! ).As has already been acknowledged 'replacing rust is good '---its
>the 'all areas are ok to re-bolt' approach that is adding a bit of 'scrotum
>from a bat ' to the 'cauldron'
>Make sure that 'shade' your heading for isn't the shadow of you buddy
>about to land on your head !
>Go the bros , go the bras !
> Luv , hex-(S)TROLL

What a comprehensively offensive prick! What a mysogynist areshole! That's my last response to Hex. He does not deserve the dignity of a response to any more of his garbage.
climbingjac
9/02/2004
2:22:03 PM
I still can't work out what HexTroll is on about. Oh well. Back to the business of being productive and sharing info.

FYI everyone - I have been advised that the sling on Monkey Puzzle has been replaced with a new sling.

Cheers,

Happy climbing

jac

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There are 335 messages in this topic.

 

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