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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Author
Gilgamesh FFA
WM
28/10/2008
4:30:41 PM
nice work Ben!

On 28/10/2008 simey wrote:
>By the way, do you guys know anything about the new bolts leading into
>Pegasus? Is it possible, or just wishful thinking?

I spoke to some Taswegians who had been working it who definitely thought it was possible - I don't remember the exact grade they were expecting but something like V12-V15 then straight into the 31 climbing .... from very vague memory.

edit: for those not familiar with the route, the description and topo can be found here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=980
BA
28/10/2008
4:35:44 PM
On 28/10/2008 bomber pro wrote:
> it's too much like the glass
>ceiling imposed on the US climbing
>grades... 5-10, the 10 being last possible grade humanly climbable! It
>now stands at 5-15b it wont be the
>"last" step up the grading ladder either! with perceptions of what is
>humanly possible constantly
>changing, then last is an outdated term, only applicable with limited
>vision of what is in fact possible.

And when Ewbank proposed his grading system, he saw no reason why a grade of 39 should not be possible. Forty plus years later and the world is slowly edging (I'm assuming it will be a face climb) toward such a grade.

muki
28/10/2008
6:00:19 PM
BA, the 5-15 is a wall then an overhanging wall then a very steeply overhanging roof then a headwall.
kieranl
28/10/2008
7:40:36 PM
At last! I was beginning to think people had lost interest. Very good effort.

JimboV10
29/10/2008
8:45:26 AM
Is it retaining the same name?
drdeviousii
29/10/2008
8:57:25 AM
word on the street is the new name is JimboV10 Sucks a Fat One
drdeviousii
29/10/2008
8:58:43 AM
nice effort b.t.w. boys! Continuing to walk the walk.

JimboV10
29/10/2008
10:00:37 AM
On 29/10/2008 drdeviousii wrote:
>word on the street is the new name is JimboV10 Sucks a Fat One

Catchy...

Well at least my name will be attached to something sweet
Dave J
29/10/2008
10:08:04 AM
Nice Job

that ascent has been a long time coming.

It was a "last great line" ten years ago I dont why it still couldn't be one.

Now while you've got a bit of momentum up, there are a few more things arond there that could do with
an ascent.

And while you're at it...why not whip over to araps and knock the Inquisition on the head (I dont think
its as hard as gilgamesh).

Now that would be a good trip....Gilgamesh and the Inquisition.
ademmert
29/10/2008
10:20:47 AM
On 29/10/2008 Dave J wrote:
>Now that would be a good trip....Gilgamesh and the Inquisition.

What about Agent of Cool - now that would be an awesome tick!
Dave J
29/10/2008
10:28:24 AM
>What about Agent of Cool - now that would be an awesome tick!

Another last great line....doesnt quitte have the history of the other two but its probably a better climb
than either of them.

Robb
29/10/2008
10:35:20 AM
where's the Inquisition Dave?
simey
29/10/2008
10:44:02 AM
On 29/10/2008 Dave J wrote:
>And while you're at it...why not whip over to araps and knock the Inquisition on the head (I dont think its as hard as gilgamesh).

Obviously you know better, but I reckon Inquisition looks even more unlikely.

>Now that would be a good trip....Gilgamesh and the Inquisition.

What about Somalia? Especially given that Ben has already modelled it for a magazine cover and re-named it.
Dave J
29/10/2008
12:13:10 PM
On 29/10/2008 beefy wrote:
>where's the Inquisition Dave?

In the bluffs...kind of above Bard you nearly walk underneath it on the descent....its the last aid line at
arapiles....it really ought to be cleaned up.
WM
29/10/2008
12:45:14 PM
Beefy, the photo isn't great but gives you an idea - inquisition takes the low roof on Bluff Minor, towards the right end at the bigger part of the roof: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=235

Macciza
29/10/2008
2:04:51 PM
Hey Dave
Has anyone climbed the roofcrack several metres left of Agent of Cool? That looked like a 'problem' . . .
ardkranker
29/10/2008
2:05:27 PM
Skip skip will be sad to hear this news.
jgoding
30/10/2008
8:01:13 AM
Well done Ben. Sensational.

Does Nick Sutter know yet? He'll be devastated he didn't get it! I don't know how many attempts he gave it but I know it was a lot and he seemed soooooooo very close. I guess he's now living in paradise so that should soften the blow...

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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