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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 57
Author
CRUX #7 - Out This Week!

meinmuk
16/10/2008
2:52:14 PM
"...The person who followed with the gear left cross loaded on the yellow
thread was lucky they did not put it to the test?...."

Yeah, they might have fallen onto that bolt a couple of inches lower...

evanbb
16/10/2008
3:03:07 PM
It looks an awesome route. Where, what and how hard is it?
WM
16/10/2008
4:22:34 PM
enter sandman, 22, bundaleer - possibly the chossiest sport route in the gramps. and the second worst IMO. good pic tho

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/10/2008
4:40:32 PM
Got my copy of Crux 7 at lunch time.
Great edition.
Radical covershot.

On 16/10/2008 meinmuk wrote:
>"...The person who followed with the gear left cross loaded on the yellow
>thread was lucky they did not put it to the test?...."
>
>Yeah, they might have fallen onto that bolt a couple of inches lower...

?
Maybe.
I prolly didn't make my point clearly, as I was referring to the hole that has been threaded with yellow/white tape, and has as mikl pointed out, the three way loaded krab on it. The gear beneath it may be a bolt but it appears a reasonable distance down.

From looking at the picture again I suspect you may be referring to the yellow sling girth hitched to the slcd. Yes, the nearest bolt is not much lower than that piece, but it is off to the side, and the resulting pendulumn fall would be back into the rock if that girthhitched piece pulled/hitch failed.

It is definitely a 'busy' cover photo.
Phil Box is also right re possible "all backassward" clip in progress, if the extended draw isn't sorted 1st.

shiltz
16/10/2008
5:28:05 PM
I'd be very nervous about submitting a photo now. You guys have very sharp eyes.
Seems to me that there is so much gear at least something is going to hold.
Wendy
16/10/2008
5:35:37 PM
On 16/10/2008 WM wrote:
>enter sandman, 22, bundaleer - possibly the chossiest sport route in the
>gramps. and the second worst IMO. good pic tho

Did I miss what the worst one is then in another thread?
WM
16/10/2008
5:57:07 PM
no I was just hoping someone would ask. Physical Graffiti (VD land) gets my vote for the worst. and yes i have done the far R routes on Spurt but PG was just shite.
MichaelOR
16/10/2008
6:01:24 PM
It's a sport climb, has straight forward and easy to read moves, good ringbolts, AND is very soft for the grade if you stop at the first set of chains (original route). Even if you keep going higher with the good extension it still struggles to get to 22.
It's got to be the easiest 22 in the Gramps ...... I don't know why Simey and Glenn didn't down grade it years ago in their first edition! Perhaps they didn't climb it.
If you climb to the bolts the clipping positions are v good off jugs - don't fight to clip early off small holds. Along the traverse, when you start to get a little pumped, there are solid kneebars to be had. Take the rests, use your heel hooks and enjoy.
The original is a good 20....... and the grade comes from the first few moves off the deck.
Now if you want to lead a 22, try Dagons Temple, which is mentioned earlier in this thread. If you think it is 21 try Pathos at the same cliff.
On a positive note, the picture is great ..... much better than the climb.
Whinge about my down grade if you must, but climb Dagons or Pathos first!
gfdonc
16/10/2008
6:26:26 PM
In case you missed it, the link I posted was of someone falling onto the 3-way thread. So apparently it works. They climbed up to the next bolt I think but their arms ran away from them .. I just had to wait with the camera set to burn a sequence.

- Steve

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/10/2008
10:06:07 AM
This all goes to show that controversial gear 'may' not actually fail, though most manufacturers etc would not recommend using it in such fashion.
Some people have been pulled up from falls by the most unlikely of events/gear, while others have had allegedly bombproof gear pull unexpectedly.

It is an interesting game we play.
james
18/10/2008
5:31:25 AM
On 16/10/2008 MichaelOR wrote:
>The original is a good 20....... and the grade comes from the first few
>moves off the deck.
>Now if you want to lead a 22, try Dagons Temple, which is mentioned earlier
>in this thread. If you think it is 21 try Pathos at the same cliff.

you might get a grade 22 pump from stopping to brush all the sand off the holds.

Wendy
14/01/2009
10:02:25 AM
I just spent a while search the ACA and VCC websites for details about Enter Sandman - I could have just saved myself the trouble by coming here! I did this yesterday (Bundaleer was welcome relief from 41 degrees in Nati) and was wondering if the 22 grading come from the extension (which I couldn't find in any of the updates) as it seemed super soft. Having done Pathos and Blimp earlier, Esther and I agreed it was heaps easier than Pathos and probably easier than Blimp, so I guess that means we effectively downgraded it to 19! I discovered than Danial Brooks first graded it 23 - maybe it was the even vaster quantities of sand and bodgy rock on the first ascent that made it seem 23!

It would be exciting heading straight up to the first bolt, but a purple camalot placed by a helpful tall person or hanging around on the first holds makes it saner. I agree with Micheal, these are the hardest moves on the route. All the other bolts are perfectly fine to clip, reasonably spaced and falls safe, although as a paranoid trad person, I threw a sling in to back them up anyway, but not the one that's cross loaded in the photo - I was too concerned the rock there would be flying down after me should I fall on it! It looks and sounds awful although obviously everyone hauls on it (and now I see at least one person whipped onto it! Mad ...).

Can't remember what Physical Graffiti was like at VD, Will, but I quite enjoyed ES - I like steep jug hauling even if the rock quality left a little to be desired. Throw in some kneebars and heel hooks and I'm in heaven.

And how's the next Crux going?

nmonteith
14/01/2009
11:54:40 AM
On 14/01/2009 Wendy wrote:
>And how's the next Crux going?

Slowly. I'm struggling to get time away from my 'real' job. It will be out eventually.

nmonteith
14/01/2009
11:56:46 AM
On 14/01/2009 Wendy wrote:
>I just spent a while search the ACA and VCC websites for details about
>Enter Sandman - I could have just saved myself the trouble by coming here!
>I did this yesterday (Bundaleer was welcome relief from 41 degrees in Nati)
>and was wondering if the 22 grading come from the extension (which I couldn't
>find in any of the updates)

I bolted the extension a few years ago (at night whilst rebolting the lower half!)

Another good 'real' 22 at Bundaleer is the wall left of Blimp called Lunging for Melons. It's now a fun little sport route on rings and certainly has a pretty stiff move down low below the 'melons'.
Wendy
14/01/2009
12:23:46 PM
On 14/01/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>On 14/01/2009 Wendy wrote:
>>And how's the next Crux going?
>
>Slowly. I'm struggling to get time away from my 'real' job. It will be
>out eventually.


Is there anything I can do to help out given my complete absence of computer editing skills?
Wendy
14/01/2009
12:26:23 PM
On 14/01/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>On 14/01/2009 Wendy wrote:
>>I just spent a while search the ACA and VCC websites for details about
>>Enter Sandman - I could have just saved myself the trouble by coming
>here!
>>I did this yesterday (Bundaleer was welcome relief from 41 degrees in
>Nati)
>>and was wondering if the 22 grading come from the extension (which I
>couldn't
>>find in any of the updates)
>
>I bolted the extension a few years ago (at night whilst rebolting the
>lower half!)
>
>Another good 'real' 22 at Bundaleer is the wall left of Blimp called Lunging
>for Melons. It's now a fun little sport route on rings and certainly has
>a pretty stiff move down low below the 'melons'.

I was going to jump on LFM til Esther said she found it reachy, so ES was probably much better for my ego ... is the 22 bit of ES in the extension then?

nmonteith
14/01/2009
12:28:57 PM
On 14/01/2009 Wendy wrote:
>. is the 22 bit of ES in the extension
>then?

It's pretty much similar steep thuggy moves but can be quite pumpy as the holds are more slopers.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 57
There are 57 messages in this topic.

 

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