Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

What's missing from the new Arapiles Guide?


muki

24-Sep-2008
12:55:13 PM

There are no topos/photos for the two new climbs on the watchtower, Ingvars" Zenomorph ", and Kevins
"Stumpy tail", although probably not classics, they are new and therefore undocumented anywhere else,
would have been good to see where the lines go, there is only a small paragraph listing there existence.

24-Sep-2008
3:11:06 PM

Hey BP they actually are documented, in cyberspace - see here. There used to be a topo there too but unfortunately the account got deleted - but I can send it to you if you want

by the way Stumpy Tail is my route not Kevin's - I bolted it and lead the easier pitches, we had a fun redpoint shootout for the crux pitch and after much flailing by both of us in 38 degree heat I got the FA of that too


nat

24-Sep-2008
5:39:21 PM


howzithanging?

24-Sep-2008
5:44:25 PM

i love arapiles, but i think HAMPI in india only just in second place, but the big plus is the granite playground is yearning for development, 300 sq km of boulders and small clifs, i think the biggest cliff i saw would be like 4 pitches, bolt your heart out climb trad or boulder untill the monkeys come home. stay an goan corner climbers heaven, and all up living like a king in mud hut with shower and toilet food beer and bouldering pad included about $70 australian a week.
i was only there for a month and only climbed within a km of my hut and could have been occupied untill old age

Wendy

24-Sep-2008
6:27:25 PM

On 24/09/2008 howzithanging? wrote:
>i love arapiles, but i think HAMPI in india only just in second place,
>but the big plus is the granite playground is yearning for development,
>300 sq km of boulders and small clifs, i think the biggest cliff i saw
>would be like 4 pitches, bolt your heart out climb trad or boulder untill
>the monkeys come home. stay an goan corner climbers heaven, and all up
>living like a king in mud hut with shower and toilet food beer and bouldering
>pad included about $70 australian a week.
>i was only there for a month and only climbed within a km of my hut and
>could have been occupied untill old age

I'm sold on a visit there, purely for research purposes of course, to assess the rating ...


wallwombat

24-Sep-2008
7:07:06 PM

On 24/09/2008 Wendy wrote:
>I'm sold on a visit there, purely for research purposes of course, to
>assess the rating ...

Me too but I just want to get shit-faced on Bhang Lassis.

simey

24-Sep-2008
8:57:24 PM

On 24/09/2008 bomber pro wrote:
>There are no topos/photos for the two new climbs on the watchtower, Ingvars "Zenomorph", and Kevins "Stumpy tail", although probably not classics, they are new and therefore undocumented anywhere else, would have been good to see where the lines go, there is only a small paragraph listing there existence.

Fair point. But being a select guide there are thousands of routes that have not made the cut. Our focus was on documenting quality intermediate and easier climbs as opposed to recording more difficult routes that will hold little appeal given the wealth of good, hard routes already in existance.

Hopefully someone will be inspired to do a no-frills, comprehensive guidebook that documents everything.


Eduardo Slabofvic

24-Sep-2008
10:08:37 PM

On 24/09/2008 wallwombat wrote:
>Me too but I just want to get shit-faced on Bhang Lassis.

They have a nasty habit of making your lips peel back off your head......so I'm told.


dimpet

24-Sep-2008
10:18:42 PM

Going back there in December :). It is an awesome place.

Some pics here
http://picasaweb.google.com/dimpet/Hampi#

On 24/09/2008 howzithanging? wrote:
>i love arapiles, but i think HAMPI in india only just in second place,
>but the big plus is the granite playground is yearning for development,
>300 sq km of boulders and small clifs, i think the biggest cliff i saw
>would be like 4 pitches, bolt your heart out climb trad or boulder untill
>the monkeys come home. stay an goan corner climbers heaven, and all up
>living like a king in mud hut with shower and toilet food beer and bouldering
>pad included about $70 australian a week.
>i was only there for a month and only climbed within a km of my hut and
>could have been occupied untill old age

25-Sep-2008
11:32:25 AM

>Hopefully someone will be inspired to do a no-frills, comprehensive guidebook
>that documents everything.

It's called ACA!

PS: here's that topo for you BP - Stumpy Tail is green (see above link for the writeup), Xenomorph is red. I think the direct line through the top roof (3-4m L of Xenomorph and 2-3m R of the arete) will probably go (needs long arms) and will be quite fun not to mention presenting a photo-op reminiscent of Kachoong. But it's taking me so long to get back to it that I'm more than happy if someone else would like to clean it up for me.

the 3rd pitch undercling crux on Stumpy Tail is a cool move too:

simey

25-Sep-2008
12:23:24 PM

On 25/09/2008 WM wrote:
>>Hopefully someone will be inspired to do a no-frills, comprehensive guidebook
>>that documents everything.
>
>It's called ACA!

Unfortunately ACA is not comprehensive.

25-Sep-2008
2:10:41 PM

On 25/09/2008 simey wrote:
>Unfortunately ACA is not comprehensive.

its only a matter of time before it is. Despite relatively few contributors ACA already covers ~2000 Grampians routes - and Araps only has about that many left to be entered.

many hands make light work - so start contributing people! it's dead easy.

simey

25-Sep-2008
2:21:05 PM

On 25/09/2008 WM wrote:
>On 25/09/2008 simey wrote:
>>Unfortunately ACA is not comprehensive.
>
>its only a matter of time before it is. Despite relatively few contributors ACA already covers ~2000 Grampians routes - and Araps only has about that many left to be entered.

Only 2000 routes to enter... too easy. Actually I suspect the number of routes to be added is more like 3000. Whoever does that job may as well as put together the comprehensive guide.

25-Sep-2008
3:28:52 PM

On 25/09/2008 simey wrote:
>I suspect the number of routes to be added is more like 3000.

whatever the numbers it's a big job...but just to be pedantic: thecrag.com got their route list from Louise's guide, and they list 2,229 total routes at Araps - of which ACA already covers 315. And even Eduardo can't possibly have uncovered 1000 new "classics" since Louise's guide...

>Whoever does that job may as well as put together the comprehensive guide.

IMO its far easier to generate raw text and topos and let ACA do the layout and distribution, rather than going through the whole rigmarole of drumming up adverts, type-setting, and going out of pocket to fund the printing, binding, distributing, etc etc etc. Eg you wouldn't believe how many people have wanted to do a print run of the sydneyclimbing.com guide (which they're more than welcome to do) but come to a grinding halt once they look into what it would actually involve.


howzithanging?

25-Sep-2008
4:09:03 PM

there is a good bhang lassi across the river, as to reach hampi you have to do a short river crossing, 5 reupee.the only catch is trying to make it back to goan corner while you can still walk, usualy after 45 mins you lose the gift of speach, then progressivley gets stronger for the next 4 hours


Eduardo Slabofvic

25-Sep-2008
4:29:53 PM

On 25/09/2008 WM wrote:
> And even Eduardo can't possibly have uncovered 1000 new "classics" since Louise's guide...

I was about 30 years too late to bag any of the "classics", but if you count the number of routes that
myself, Hero, Inego Montoya and the Electric Dick have done since Lou's guide, then it would be
approaching 1000.

There's still new routes to do at Araps, you just need an eye for a line. There are routes that havn't been
done that can be seen from camp, and it's Araps, where even the bad routes are pretty good.

gtempest

25-Sep-2008
9:00:25 PM

On 25/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>> ...... and it's Araps, where even the bad routes are pretty good.

Which pretty much says it all.


Chuck Norris

25-Sep-2008
10:34:41 PM

On 25/09/2008 gtempest wrote:
>On 25/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>> ...... and it's Araps, where even the bad routes are pretty good.
>
>Which pretty much says it all.

however the flipside is, that despite a few notable exceptions, even the good routes are pretty crap.

simey

25-Sep-2008
10:49:38 PM

Fortunately they are not as crap as most of the routes at Moonarie.


Chuck Norris

25-Sep-2008
11:19:26 PM

On 25/09/2008 simey wrote:
>Fortunately they are not as crap as most of the routes at Moonarie.
>

At least at Moonarie the good routes are good and the crap ones are crap. Black and white - no turd
polishing going on there.

There are 125 messages in this topic.