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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 6 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 125
Author
What's missing from the new Arapiles Guide?

Sabu
25/09/2008
11:41:38 PM
I will NEVER get tired of the classic chocky shit slinging!

Eduardo Slabofvic
26/09/2008
11:07:09 AM
On 25/09/2008 stugang wrote:
> no turd polishing going on there.

You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in Glitter (which is more a reference to Nowra than anything else)

ajfclark
26/09/2008
11:13:27 AM
On 26/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in Glitter (which is more a reference to Nowra than anything else)

or take this approach for more colourful crap.

Chuck Norris
26/09/2008
11:59:38 PM
On 26/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>On 25/09/2008 stugang wrote:
>> no turd polishing going on there.
>
>You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in Glitter (which is more
>a reference to Nowra than anything else)

Eduardo, that is deep on so many levels.

I didn't mean to say anything bad about araps, its just my desire to use the expression "turd polishing"
got the better of me.

Rest assured everyone, despite the fact that I THINK araps is a pile of crap, I never meant to SAY
that araps is a pile of crap.
hero
27/09/2008
12:47:46 AM
Stugang, surely it's time you went to bed.
climberman
27/09/2008
5:57:36 AM
On 26/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>On 25/09/2008 stugang wrote:
>> no turd polishing going on there.
>
>You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in Glitter (which is more
>a reference to Nowra than anything else)

A mate at work uses this line. I love it. My favourite though is "Couldn't run a bath'. Applies so often it's scary.
kieranl
29/09/2008
9:13:21 PM
Just got told off today for undergrading A Goat's Song. Told Norm to blame the guidebook editors, not me.
post-edit : maybe the 16 grade was to keep the index neat.
simey
30/09/2008
7:43:23 AM
I repeated A Goat's Song with a friend not long ago and thought it was very soft and somewhat disappointing at 17, so downgraded it. Even at grade 16 I would have thought it was an easy tick.
chris
30/09/2008
8:09:35 AM
"soft and somewhat dissapointing".... no need to bring your relationship problems to the climbing community now, simey!! ;)

shiltz
30/09/2008
9:27:04 AM
A simple question about a new guidebook and the selection of routes.
-> The usual banter
-> Some surprising comparisons of Arapiles v. The World
-> One or two comments about the selection of routes

Will be up there this weekend to refresh my memory of the real thing. Hopefully the weather holds out, all the pictures in the guide have nice clear sunny skies at least.

tnd
30/09/2008
10:39:07 AM
On 30/09/2008 shiltz wrote:
>...all the pictures in the guide have nice
>clear sunny skies at least.

Photoshop!
kieranl
30/09/2008
11:33:42 AM
On 30/09/2008 simey wrote:
>I repeated A Goat's Song with a friend not long ago and thought it was
>very soft and somewhat disappointing at 17, so downgraded it. Even at grade
>16 I would have thought it was an easy tick.
Apparently Ed and Norm don't share that opinion.

pmonks
1/10/2008
4:55:17 AM
On 22/09/2008 superstu wrote:
>yosemite valley is an absolutely fabulous place to visit and climb

I don't rate Yosemite all that highly actually:
* the valley is a trench (cold & dark in the morning and evening)
* there are WAY too many tourists / tourist facilities yadda yadda yadda (no one told me there's an entire town in the bottom!)
* the "easy" routes are all hard because they've been buffed smooth from way too many ascents (this applies to virtually everything below about 5.11a / 23)
* you usually have to queue up to get on the good routes and then play the conga line shuffle the entire way up (except if you're unlucky enough to end up with &$#%ing Euros on the route, in which case you can expect them to perform some crazy & dangerous stunts to try to climb past you when you're not looking)
* the weather / climate is pretty sucky (too wet & cold in winter, too wet in spring from snowmelt, too hot in summer, too unpredictable in autumn)
* granite (while a pleasant change of pace) quickly becomes two dimensional (dimension 1: steep strenuous cracks, dimension 2: runout delicate slabs).

But Tuolomne Meadows (in fact most of the High Sierra) is the Yang to the Valley's Yin - it's virtually everything the Valley is not. About the only downside is that the longest free routes are typically only about half as long as the longest free routes in the Valley (ignoring some of the ridiculously long back country ridge routes), but then how many pitches can you do before it all starts getting a bit monotonous? I find more than about 10 pitches and I start to get bored (or scared, depending on where the sun is in the sky! ;-).

I've come to the conclusion that sandstone (in all its various forms) is just about the best rock to climb on day to day - from the Grit to Indian Creek to Red Rocks to the Blueys to the Grampians and Araps - it's all bloody awesome!

Cheers,
Peter

muki
1/10/2008
5:53:18 AM
Agree re Tuolomne, just a beautiful place to climb, and generally better weather, more sunshine.
A higher altitude makes for cooler summer temps, not as many tourons, and less ranger activity.
And the campsites are really nice as well.

shiltz
7/10/2008
2:46:32 PM
I spotted an action shot of Eduardo in the guide. Nice angle, capturing both climber and belayer in the same frame.

The shot of the 14 year old on Togrul Khan was perfect to point out to a mate who backed off the same climb on Sunday.

I was surprised by the section describing how to lead safely, etc. Would have thought the normal disclaimer at the front was sufficient for a guidebook and less likely to get the authors into trouble.

I liked the inclusion of the SLCD chart. Great idea given the diversity of hardware out there nowadays.

simey
7/10/2008
3:16:45 PM
On 7/10/2008 shiltz wrote:
>I was surprised by the section describing how to lead safely, etc. Would have thought the normal disclaimer at the front was sufficient for a guidebook and less likely to get the authors into trouble.

Thanks for the feedback. The disclaimer at the front the guide and the section on how to climb safely have two very different purposes. I am not sure how we would get into trouble by providing practical advice on how to climb safely. If that was the case, no one would write instructional books.




shiltz
7/10/2008
3:45:26 PM
I'm not a lawyer so you're safe from me.

cruze
7/10/2008
4:22:21 PM
I thought that the how to climb safely section was bloody good.

shiltz
7/10/2008
4:41:51 PM
Well it has a place then if someone finds it valuable.

Great job overall Simey. The pictures alone are well worth the extra cost. They inspired me to drive past the Grampians for the first time in a few years.
tastybigmac
8/10/2008
9:28:49 AM
There are no photos of me in there. As a retired bumbly i expected to see myself in this fine piece of climbing history. It would increased the value dramatically.

 Page 6 of 7. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 125
There are 125 messages in this topic.

 

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