Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

What's missing from the new Arapiles Guide?


shiltz

19-Sep-2008
12:48:26 PM

OK, I've purchased a shiny new Arapile's guide. Looks great! I never owned the last version of the selected guide (I've been using the Shephard guide and occasionally borrowing a selected guide for the pictures). This new release looks like a big step ahead. Well done to the authors.

But what's missing? Has anyone pored through and noticed major omissions or surprise inclusions?
Feel free to rant away even if it is your own route that got left out, it was a route that you never got around to writting up, or it only got a first ascent after the publication date.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

19-Sep-2008
1:07:57 PM

>But what's missing? Has anyone pored through and noticed major omissions or surprise inclusions?
ES has not been using your copy has he?

Page 5 of this thread mentions a couple of things.

Another I can think of is the variation climb, 'Didgeridon't that Capt_mulch & MrsM10 have spoken of a little while ago...
Heh, heh, heh.


Richard

19-Sep-2008
1:23:02 PM

pram access and a toddler safety rating for the cliff base is a gross ommission that I have noticed...


MisterGribble

19-Sep-2008
1:49:34 PM

On 19/09/2008 shiltz wrote:
>
>But what's missing? Has anyone pored through and noticed major omissions
>or surprise inclusions?

A large picture of me ?

gfdonc

19-Sep-2008
2:32:48 PM

Yes, good point Richard, I'll second that.
Also local creche facilities.

richardo

20-Sep-2008
8:01:39 PM

a f---ing dose of humility.

Arapiles is a crag amongst 1000's of other crags. I'll let you in on a secret but some of those crags are
better!

fish boy

20-Sep-2008
8:40:06 PM

Aside from Buffalo, I disagree.

richardo

20-Sep-2008
10:09:39 PM

On 20/09/2008 fish boy wrote:
>Aside from Buffalo, I disagree.

So you agree.

simey

20-Sep-2008
10:43:22 PM

On 20/09/2008 richardo wrote:
>a f---ing dose of humility.
>
>Arapiles is a crag amongst 1000's of other crags. I'll let you in on a secret but some of those crags are better!

Name just one crag that rivals Arapiles for quality routes at ALL grades, including single-pitch and multi-pitch routes, bouldering, and good cheap camping next door to it all.

Wendy

21-Sep-2008
7:37:32 PM

Better crags than Arapiles? What a preposterous idea! Actually, seriously, I've climbed in a heck of a lot of places, and I'm afraid Araps wins out.

Take the Buffalo suggestion. I love Buffalo really, It's got some awesome routes in a beautiful setting. I'd go there a lot more often, except, it's only pleasant to climb there for 3 months of the year, and even then, it can get bloody miserable. It costs a fortune to camp there and the rangers hunt you down and shoot you if you try and avoid paying or camping elsewhere. It's super busy with non climbers at all the best times of year and they limit the very expensive camping places so you have to plan in advance (like months in advance in school holidays/long weekends) with no idea what the bodgy weather will be doing. There's no public transport there and even if you get there, you need a car to get to any decent crags anyway. On which note, Buffalo is not a crag. It's lots of crags, whereas Araps is a basically continuous cliff that you can walk from one end to the other in 20 minutes. You'd struggle if you just turned up hoping to find a climbing partner. The rock and the gear at Buffalo frequently leave a little to be desired. So does the access. Actually, so does the guidebook (Disclaimer, I have no vested interest in any guidebooks!).

Honestly, I'd be curiously to hear which crags are better than Araps and why ...

Wendy

PS and about the creche facilities - even had Simey and Glenn thought about it, there are none to mention. Absolutely zippo. Nothing. Rien. No day care centre, no one doing family day care. Yep, it's an issue. But you can complain to the government about lack of rural childcare services. There are several in Horsham as well as multiple family day care groups. I don't know what your chances are of getting a casual day care place, but I know there's a waitlist for regular places. That might be one thing you can find a better crag for somewhere ...


Eduardo Slabofvic

21-Sep-2008
10:23:45 PM

On 20/09/2008 simey wrote:
>Name just one crag that rivals Arapiles for quality routes at ALL grades,
>including single-pitch and multi-pitch routes, bouldering, and good cheap
>camping next door to it all.
>

Presles

richardo

21-Sep-2008
10:44:48 PM

On 21/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>On 20/09/2008 simey wrote:
>>Name just one crag that rivals Arapiles for quality routes at ALL grades,
>>including single-pitch and multi-pitch routes, bouldering, and good cheap
>>camping next door to it all.
>>
>
>Presles

Spain.


Superstu

22-Sep-2008
8:10:20 AM

On 21/09/2008 Wendy wrote:
>Honestly, I'd be curiously to hear which crags are better than Araps
>and why ...

Araps is great, in fact thats where I've climbed most of anywhere, ... but I will have to add 2 cents, that no matter how many fat obnoxious yanks, nazi park rangers, smelly bivvy sites and manky fixed gear, yosemite valley is an absolutely fabulous place to visit and climb. An interesting thought... what if yosemite was infact somewhere in gippsland? Which crag would be the world's best then !? Would Moe be the "other Nati"?

simey

22-Sep-2008
8:19:07 AM

On 21/09/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>Presles

Presles??!! I've climbed there and I don't even see how you could put it in the same sentence.

simey

22-Sep-2008
8:20:55 AM

On 21/09/2008 richardo wrote:
>Spain.

Where is this crag called Spain?

simey

22-Sep-2008
8:27:07 AM

On 22/09/2008 superstu wrote:
>...yosemite valley...

Yosemite is awesome. But it doesn't have as many good lower-grade routes as Arapiles. If you want to learn to climb, then Arapiles is better than Yosemite.

Wendy

22-Sep-2008
8:52:26 AM

I will admit that Yosemite is far more spectacular than Araps. And I should hope you don't need 3 days to get up the Watchtower faces. But aside from Superstu's problems with it, they also kick you out of the campsite after 2 weeks, tour buses with megaphones delight your senses all day and you get snowed under in winter. And for all the problems of farming communities, I'm glad Natimuk is here, not Moe, because I prefer it to the problems of coal mining and power station communities. Besides, it rains less here.

Presles? Don't know it, but I already see a problem - limestone. Not that I dislike climbing on limestone, it makes for great climbing for perhaps the 1st 5 years after it's development as a crag. Climbing ruins limestone. Polished rock is terribly unpleasant. Any limestone crag that sees as much traffic as Arapiles would rapidly have as much friction as your toilet bowl.

JDB

22-Sep-2008
8:56:33 AM

On 19/09/2008 MisterGribble wrote:
>On 19/09/2008 shiltz wrote:
>>
>>But what's missing? Has anyone pored through and noticed major omissions
>>or surprise inclusions?
>
>A large picture of me ?

Simey,

'Photo-shopping' gfdonc out the the picture of Checkmate was a master stroke.

He'll be pissed off about that forever !!

chris

22-Sep-2008
9:11:47 AM

Yes arapiles is nice and all, but seriously, where do you go for a good coffee and cake? There are not enough ringbolts anyway, and on top of that, you have to put up with snooty mexicans on the drive down there!
Maybe if we shipped the crag up to walking distance from Blackheath it might make "worlds best" standard.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

22-Sep-2008
9:13:14 AM

Yosemite has more water at its camp site, than Araps does at the moment. Heh, heh, heh.
Its best routes are longer and have a good history too.
...~> but imo Arapiles is worthy of its iconic status.

Simey has subtly changed the topic flavour from 'What's missing from the new Arapiles Guide?' ... ?
~> Mine is missing the authors autographs!

There are 125 messages in this topic.