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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 76
Easter Henry Barber Reenactment Days at Araps

6:22:11 PM
He's given me waist belay before! He wanted me to lower-off the anchors - i said get f---ed i'm topping out... i don't trust this rope around the waist thing.

Boggie @ Camel

11:04:12 PM
It does get a bit boggie. Must be the dampness.

8:37:36 AM
Here are some pics of Barber in action. The first one looks like its at Araps

These two are on Mt Wellington on the same trip as his Araps visit:

9:24:44 AM
I fly paragliders and there has been suggestion of everyone pulling out old gliders for a historic paragliding day. This is quickly discarded as no one in there right mind would fly a 20 year glider. Asking for trouble. Both the age of the materials and the poor design of early paragliders mean you would be asking for trouble.

Bit like that with climbing. Why discard the safety improvements in the name of "reinactment". That stuff should be left for museums.

I can imagine the headlines now.

9:31:14 AM
Climbing is a little different to paragliding.
9:43:42 AM
Not that different in many ways.

Its one thing to pull out retro skis or something like that but another to rely on retro ropes, belay practises and equipment.

But i suppose if you are climbing well within your limit the risk is low.
10:25:47 AM
On 5/03/2008 qman wrote:
>... but another to rely on retro ropes, belay practises and equipment.

I know a few climbers who rely on that stuff everytime they go climbing.

10:42:26 AM
Who are these guys and are they still alive?
10:52:33 AM
yeah. I use a munter if I forget (or more often when someone else forgets and I lend) my belay device. Or for speed or fun use a waist belay with a good stance. Or just use passive gear for a challenge. Or climb with guys who just never got around to buying cams. Many climbs, especially at araps can be lead with one set of wires. I dont know about paragliding, but you can get hexes now that are pretty much the same as those 30 years ago and just as safe, probably lighter. Hell ,just use the thirty year old ones! As long as the threads good. This has the potential to build into the "why not make climbing as 'safe' as possible, so therefore just f-ing toprope?" debate. Or better yet,if your so concerned with your 'safetey', go watch a masters of stone vid, sitting on your couch while wearing a helmet. God, I hate safety nazis. Also, your comparison of rock climbing to paragliding is absurd. Climbing old school is fun. I intend to onsight kama sutra with old school gear now. Thanks for inspiring me with your hand wringing qman!

10:58:23 AM
On 5/03/2008 Dom wrote:
>Who are these guys and are they still alive?

The guy doing the jump is Lyle Closs (according to the caption). I dont know lyle, but somewhat ironiclly I remeber this text he wrote, that Bill Andrew's posted on another thread here on Chockstone:

It was written by Lyle Closs and appeared in SCREAMER 84/85


I know a few people who are important. I am sure you'll agree.
Bob Bull, for example. Led the hard bits on the first ascent of Euridyce at Arapiles. Bit of an idiot in his baby days. Lovely family now. Farm in the mountains behind Hobart. Smashing record collection. Great bloke by the fire when the rain's pissing down on the cold Tassie hills, glass of Guinness warming in your fist.
Donny Holmes for example. Led a 14 new route once. Died of cancer a year or two back. Fought it monumentally for many years. Drank a lot with me and the lads a long time ago. You don't know him do you? Bloody annoying I call it.
Reg Williams for example. A great climber and bushman. Stutters. A very important person in the lives of many. On the first ascent of Emperor at Buffalo. Led first ascent of Orang Utang at Arapiles. Not just initials in a book you know. Raising his kids. Making perfect replica steam trains for Christ's sake. What do you care I wonder.
Mick McHugh. Skyhooking in a hurricane at Coles Bay. Abseiling off Frenchmans and leaping fires. Designing kitchens for princesses now isn't he! More than nine point Helvetica bold underneath the climb description.
Peter Jackson, teacher, powerhouse of suburban Hobart. Man of many visions, discoverer of Arapiles, searcher ever since. Lots of climbs with his name on, and many line drawings without peer, but do you sense how I feel here? No, probably not.
Me. I did a few new routes, knew a few people, made a certain short term impression. But what does FIRST CLIMBED: L. CLOSS mean to anyone? Bugger all I suspect.
So what the hell use is this strange appendage at the bottom of each route description? Why bother recording the first climbers?
If it says FIRST CLIMBED; D. WHILLANS, J. BROWN now that means something because you've read the biographies, seen the movie, analysed the photograph. There's some response drilled up from the core of the mind. There's some encouragement there to resurrect the mythology ... My mythology, now. What do you know of that if you haven't read the Tasmanian Climbers Club magazines and Thrutches of the late sixties, early seventies? Most who have have probably forgotten them anyway. I have.
You see, my mythology involves the previously mentioned characters among many others and is wreathed in mists of time, lit bright with the sharp rays of younger perception - all that crap.
And all of these important climbers I have mentioned - each has his own mythology in which I am a peripheral shade drifting through and past. To themselves they are mythologically central.
Memory is just mythology of course. It is not real and deserves less credence than it is allowed - pathos, however, insists.
And it does seem a little pathetic that we insist on forcing our meagre mythologies on to the small guidebook page, forever thumbed with the aim of finding the way to a present, a future climbing enjoyment, not a wistful rememberance of days long past. Probably not to recognise the achievments of the first ascenders. Certainly with no capacity to know of their feelings at the time.
Dammit there is no art in any of it.
The climb descriptions are as much descriptive of human emotion as the rememberance columns of the Saturday papers.
And doing the climbs, well, the physical surroundings are roughly the same, but the actions are different, and of course the feelings are new, personally exclusive.
The actions, well they are just a necessary response to the surroundings.
But the feelings! Now there is something like art, something like real dreams in flood.
And those little words at the bottom of the route description are, of course memorials to other men's dreams.
And perhaps your dreams are every bit as powerful or langorous as were those of the first to climb the climb. But stop your arrogant mental static a moment before you approach the eternally patient stone and think of those that first dreamed the dream.
Even if they no longer breathe, at least, that day, they dreamed where no man had ever dreamed before. It's a thing worthy of the gods, a breath on the window of eternity.
A breath on the window perhaps.
And just as the printing of the names of the first to climb the route is a memorial to other menís dreams, so to climb that climb is to lie in another man's grave.
The grave may be the same. But it was not dug for you.
11:30:31 AM
point taken crazyjohn. I am prepared to conceed the point. Pull out your hob nails and rack up the machine nut pro.

I prefer passive pro in most cases so hexs and nuts were not really my issue.
and Munter hitches are great.

I was really talking about pulling out old harnesses and ropes etc.. for the sake of nostalga and reverting to waist belays and over the shoulder abseiling. Of course nylon will deteriorate significantly over 20 years so you wouldnt catch me on an old rope or harness but the metal is good.

I am more than happy to take on technolgy for comfort, weight, safety and easy of use. But power to ya.

11:40:19 AM
I wouldn't want to try Kama Sutra on a thirty year old rope. Come to think of it, Henry didn't climb on a thirty year old rope either.
12:48:43 PM
Yeah, the idea is for people to replicate the gear of the times as much as they want to. As Simey says, they
weren't climbing on 30 year old gear then. It's just an opportunity for people to have fun and gain an
appreciation of how much difference modern gear makes.

1:16:39 PM
On 5/03/2008 simey wrote:
>I wouldn't want to try Kama Sutra on a thirty year old rope. Come to think
>of it, Henry didn't climb on a thirty year old rope either.

so .. if you did .. would that be re-inacting the future ?? I'm confused...

6:56:03 PM
So...... How'd you do Adam? did you get the Onsight with two pieces in, on a swami belt?
Love to know how it all went, I was busy working, and besides I want the Onsight myself!
Maybe without the swami belt and with a few cams as well as sticky rubber for my foot work.
10:04:25 PM
On 9/03/2008 bomber pro wrote:
>So...... How'd you do Adam? did you get the Onsight with two pieces in,
>on a swami belt?
>Love to know how it all went, I was busy working, and besides I want the
>Onsight myself!
>Maybe without the swami belt and with a few cams as well as sticky rubber
>for my foot work.

Are there any tough hardmen living in Natimuk these days (apart from BP and HB).

8:22:35 PM
Mate, they're all women these days. Esther and Kate just ticked Masada, their hardest previous was 26. Being
a hardman in Nati is simply out of style right now, too 90's.

Check out these beauties... near mint EB's from Eric Pootjes for the reenactments. If you have any boots or
nuts of the era (harnesses and ropes less so) and you'd be up for them being used, let me know.
8:56:26 PM
Henry probably would have killed for a pair of those. As I understand things, he was climbing in Chouinard boots with steel-shanked soles (must have been shit for smearing at Arapiles).

Correct me if I am wrong.
11:21:57 AM
That's right - you can see them in this photo. Henry talked about them when I interviewed him. They appear
to have heels on them!

I doubt we'll be able to find a pair of these though sadly...
12:19:24 PM
I've made up some flyers for the day

If you'd like to download a pdf and email it/print it and put it up at the gym/burnley/fed square/opera house
feel free

Low res (300k)
Hi Res (5Mb)

The pdf's open very slowly on my computer - could anyone let me know if they have problems? They're just
out of PSCS3

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 76
There are 76 messages in this topic.


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