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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Author
Anyone for Tennis Elbow
gfdonc
9-Jan-2004
9:51:19 PM
Ah thanks Jac .. ditto on the idea to keep photos of ppl, wasn't sure it was you talking to John last night until I chipped in.
- Steve /gfdonc
Alan Hill
28-Sep-2008
2:23:37 PM
Hi julian
Did you do an article on tendon injury treatments in either Climber or Rock & Ice, maybe 2 years ago? I've got golfers elbow starting to cause bother, and this article had some excercises to help. If you are the right person do you know which magazine & issue so I can hunt it out?
Thanks
Alan
Cobb
28-Sep-2008
2:54:12 PM
Hi John, The advice Julian has given you is great, most GP's (not all) will quickly rush you off for a
course of anti inflams and then a cortisone injection. This is the last thing it needs. Bill Vincenzino a
physio from SA has done some great research in this area and basically you are better off doing
nothing with the tendon than injecting it with cortisone! Initially the tendon responds well to the
cortisone (or so you think) but long term it is the worst treatment. The best and quickest results
came with appropriate manual therapy and a rehab program (I emphasis the rehab program). Things
like ultrasound do jack all to fix the problem so make sure your therapist knows about this research /
treatment.
Cheers,
Andrew Cobb
Sports Physio

Below is a link to the abstract of that article.
http://www.bmj.com/cgi/content/abstract/bmj.38961.584653.AEv1?hrss=1

Capt_mulch
28-Sep-2008
7:56:39 PM
There are two types of tennis elbow (tendinitis) you can get - outside the elbow and inside the elbow. The outside the elbow one is from crimping and the associated 'chicken winging' of your arm (crimping with elbows out wide). I gave myself tendinitis (inside elbow) last summer by training too hard whilst getting back into climbing, and doing too many chin-up type drills. The only way to get rid of it is to back right off on the training, or not doing the type of climbing that exacerbates it (crimping etc.). I have found that the 'inside elbow' tendinitis will not be exacerbated now if I do chin-ups singly, with a five second or so wait between each one (taking all weight on your feet of course). This type of chin-up corresponds with what you do in climbing anyway, unless you are the Hubers, who dyno between mantles. It took 3-4 months of backing right off before my tendinitis went away, and I am close to your age (but nowhere near as old as Mikl :-), so we probably have similar recovery physiology.

Capt_mulch
28-Sep-2008
8:18:43 PM
BTW, my Mother is an 'old fashioned' Physiotherapist (hands on, no machines), and her recommendation for recovery with this type of sports injury is rest, rest and more rest. I stuffed my right shoulder, doing push-ups of all things, about five years ago. Her recommendation was rest and time, and Dog damn it, why are mothers' always right?? (Shoulders take about a year and a half).

Andrew_M
29-Sep-2008
6:02:13 AM
Hey Alan, here is a link to the article that you are after:

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf

The article has all the details, but if you are anywhere near Blackheath it could still be worth your while getting a session at Athlon. I had a really bad case of golfer's elbow (the medial one) brought on by overtraining a couple of years ago and Julian worked out a personalised rehab plan that worked a treat.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
There are 26 messages in this topic.

 

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