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Compare gyms in Melbourne to Europe


dreamingof8a

1-Feb-2008
9:49:37 PM

On 1/02/2008 Cliffhanger wrote:
>not quite!
>
>a 20 mt wall takes considerably longer to strip.

Hmm, I'm happy to try and prove you wrong :-)
do you guys use an electric drill? We always used a normal key to loosen the screws and then finished them off with the electric drill. A bucket on your harness to collect the holds and screws, that's it.

>industrial dishwashers do not clean the holds sufficiently - we had one
>and have gone back to hand washing.

All of the gyms that I know in Germany/France/Switzerland use such dishwashers and it works fine there. Maybe it's a different washing liquid?

>Your definition of "safe enough" may not keep the gyms PLI insurance and
>workcover underwriters happy - You may also need to consider the wall,
>it's overhand, fall zones etc. Actually roping off an area to comply with
>the forthcoming Australian Standard for Climbing Walls and WorkSafe Victoria
>is a little more than the two rows of adjacent quickdraws next to it! In
>Victoria you also have to provide Orange Barricading, Danger keep Out and
>Workers Overheard signage... etc.

Which fall zones when only top-roping?

Okay, I don't know about the regulations here in Australia and actually in Germany neither. What I called "safe enough" is rather my experience of many route setting sessions. But the owner of the gym at home is in the committee where insurance issues and norms are decided - so I guess he should now that it is okay.


dreamingof8a

1-Feb-2008
9:52:22 PM

@ cliffhanger: just to let you know, I don't want to piss you off or anything. I actually really like your gym! (just get rid of the top-ropes on the overhanging wall opposite the entrance :-) )


alrob

4-Feb-2008
9:26:23 AM

right, so back on topic, what do you think a good climbing gym needs? what makes the European and US climbing gyms apparently better then ours?

Stuey

4-Feb-2008
9:47:07 AM

On 4/02/2008 alrob wrote:
what makes the European and US climbing gyms apparently better then ours?

Did we establish that they were better (or just better than those in Melbourne?)


alrob

4-Feb-2008
11:04:30 AM

well then, what do you think makes a world class climbing gym?

Stuey

4-Feb-2008
11:36:22 AM

1/ Good, regular route setting with quality holds/interesting volumes etc.
2/ High quality tall, steep lead/competition wall
3/ High quality bouldering with good matting and a big 50 degree board preferably.
4/ Reasonable mix of toprope/leading
5/ Excellent training facilities eg - Properly designed campus board etc
6/. Not too crowded.
7/ Music/atmosphere/snacks.

I'm a bit biased because I set there but I do think that Mike and Simon have got the mix right and on the whole St Peters rates as highly as any of the walls I used to frequent in London and have visited in Europe.

The_Gimp

12-Oct-2012
5:22:52 PM

Have I misunderstood the grade observation on Nunawading? I thought the routes were overgraded.

23/24 felt more like 19/20 ish.

The crack in the back corner with no holds felt about right at 25, but I'm not the best crack climber, so I could be wrong there.

Don't get me wrong, I think there are some great routes there, currently a really cool white on the slab, but it's not close to 24. More 19-20ish - but heaps of fun. I climbed it twice.

Gimp


Ben

12-Oct-2012
6:04:55 PM

Note that the posts previous to yours were all from 2008, so 4 years ago. A lot changes in that time, and the setting team at Hardrock Nuna is now vastly different from then.

The_Gimp

12-Oct-2012
10:18:29 PM

Yeah, I noticed that just now when I logged back in on a computer instead of my phone :-/

Cheers

There are 49 messages in this topic.