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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Burnley - In need of some work
Lurking Dave
4:39:16 PM
Let me start the thread by acknowledging the effort that went into building the wall and the on going commitment to tighten loose holds etc.

However many of the problems that the majority of traffic on the vertical and 30deg wall are polished to hell.

My view is that the at some point it would be a good idea to get the holds off the wall, give them a good scrub then reset the problems. I recognise that this is not an inconsiderable effort and would require both a consensus of opinion and a willingness of the users to commit some time.

So what do you think - worthwhile effort? waste of time? or a different approach is needed?

Your views?


4:45:37 PM
I agree that all routes on the easy vertical wall need removal and re-setting. The holds are ultra polished and in many cases un-usable. 30 degree wall is still in pretty good shape. The easy white route over on the 45 degree wall needs replacing - some of the holds are like mirrors...

Chuck Norris
5:05:20 PM
The polish doesn't bother me much at all....just hang on harder :)

I'd prefer to see the spinners fixed. On the 30deg wall almost every hold on pink high and low spins as
well as half of the yellow holds.

Anything more than basic maintenance on the vertical wall is a waste of time as the holds will be ruined
again in a week with the hoards of cyclists slobbering all over it.

5:28:09 PM
The 90 degree wall is well placed to take the traffic. Replacing the footholds occasionally would make sense but they will be destroyed pretty quickly.

On the 30 degree wall the black, green, high pink and yellow traverses all seem fine to me.

On the 45 degree wall the white, orange and purple traverses are also in good shape. I can't comment on any of the others there.
5:48:21 PM
A full strip down, clean and reset is needed in my opinion.

Needs a coordinator with sufficient time and energy to organise a few working bees. any volunteers?
7:54:03 PM
The vertical wall bears the brunt of beginners jumping on in sneakers and having a crack - which I think is great, and replacing the feet on that wall would help first-timers have a much more enjoyable experience. The white feet on the vertical wall in particular are completely smooth. I think the 30 degree wall is in ok condition, but the problems have been there a long time.

Having said that, some maintenance has already been done on the 30 degree wall. There's a new traverse route that's gone up (the blue and white swirlies, which is significantly harder than the grade implies!), a few loose holds tightened, a few of the black holds have been re-oriented (which make one move quite a bit harder).

I'm more than happy to donate some time and even some dollars for new holds, given that I try to train there 3 or 4 times a week.

10:23:46 PM
the slicker the feet, the better for training! ultra core tension workout!

8:50:12 AM
On 21/01/2008 chalkischeap wrote:
>A full strip down, clean and reset is needed in my opinion.
>Needs a coordinator with sufficient time and energy to organise a few
>working bees. any volunteers?

Agreed! After getting spat off flat onto my back from 2 spinners and twice just spooging off slipery holds, i wont be heading to burnly again untill its had a clean and reset.

I was involved in the initial routsetting and am more than happy to assist again.

Maybe somone from the burnly bouldering staff could start compiling a list of voulenteers and their prefered days for helping out??
Lurking Dave
9:35:38 AM
WRT a full strip down and clean I will a) volunteer me and the Mrs to pitch in b) offer to bring/cook the barbie.


Organ Pipe
10:21:12 AM
I'd be glad to volunteer also.

11:31:24 AM
I'll help out and ill try and whip up some people from RMIT to help as well if someone organizes it.
11:36:24 AM
I think you will find the job will involve more than just stripping and cleaning. Given how high traffic this wall is, many of the holds need replacing as they won't be okay even after a clean.

So it's great people want to help but what will be needed most is money for new holds...

11:47:57 AM
It's time for a fundraiser! Raffles work well for this sort of thing. I'm happy to throw in a few subscriptions...

11:59:27 AM
ill happily donate some more holds.
1:21:08 PM
I have no holds to donate, but I'm happy to donate time on a weekend...
1:45:31 PM
If someone has the time to organise it, the task list would be along the lines of:

1) Obtain tools & equipment power tools, lots of storage boxes, new holds, nuts, bolts & T-nuts

2) 1 day, 8 people strip all holds, sort holds into containers, store behind walls

3) 2 weeks 16 people take away boxes of holds for cleaning (pressure washer or dishwasher) water restriction problems?

4) 2 weekends of route setting, 8 people each day

Ideal job for a project management student any takers?
2:01:51 PM
There must be a way to resurface polished holds with a grinder or similer.
May be quite time intensive though.

Any ideas.

Surely replaceing all the holds would be overly expensive and unsustainable.

2:09:47 PM
Not all the holds need replacing. I would say less than 20% would need replacing overall. I think it would need to be a gradual replacement process - it would be a shame to have the wall out of action for several weeks!

Organ Pipe
2:12:02 PM
The number of holds that are so polished that they'd need to be discarded is quite small IMO, most could be rotated and used in a different position on a new route.

Even so, supposing we needed to invest in new holds, say 200 new ones, what kind of coin is required?

Just trying to understand what level this fundraising would have to go to?

Organ Pipe
2:16:05 PM
On 22/01/2008 cruxmag wrote:
>it would be a shame to have the wall out of action for several weeks!

I agree, if I were managing the project, I'd do a wall at a time, so at any given time, 2 walls are still open.

I recognise that this would mean that you wouldn't be able to shift holds from one wall to another, but that's not necessarily a bad thing if the target was similarly graded routes per wall.

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