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General Climbing Discussion

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Crack Addicts


dave h.

23-Jan-2008
12:27:08 AM

Pretty sure I remember seeing them at ClimbFit. (I don't work there or anything like that...)

23-Jan-2008
11:40:05 AM

Was out walking yesterday and there is a house on the corner of Burnley St and Murphy St (in Richmond) where the two storey extension on the back is rotating away from the original building. If you want to practice your jamming, it goes from hands to off-width! (Looks like a very expensive underpinning exercise is required.)


nmonteith

29-Jan-2008
11:17:45 AM

I managed to get my jam scars infected on the weekend. I've been trying (for 3 days) a new roof crack route and on one day i forgot the fabled 'jammies' and wanted to climb it anyway. I could do it but the damage to my hands was not pretty. I awoke the next day with swollen and weeping sores. I've had to go to the doctor and get a dose of antibiotics to fix it up. Here is a pic of one part of my hands before they got really nasty this morning!


climbau

29-Jan-2008
11:35:37 AM

Reminds me of what I did to myself on Devilled Cream one stinking hot day at Buffalo.


Eduardo Slabofvic

29-Jan-2008
11:44:13 AM

What would work better than either tape or gloves would be a nice ergonomically design handle covered
with something nice and grippy that can be attached to a cam. Then you just stick the cam in the crack
and hang onto the handle. And for your feet, you could make a kind of ladder thingy with different length
loops in it, which would attach to the handle thingy, you could then stand in the loops.


climbau

29-Jan-2008
11:47:37 AM

Yeah, Crack Jumars (patent pending)!! On the loop thingys you could have a toe piece that would protect the front of your shoes so as not to scuff them up. That way you could go to the disco straight from the crag and not get hassled by bouncers. The handles could also have wrist loops so that you didn't have to grip so tight (like weight lifting straps).


nmonteith

29-Jan-2008
12:16:49 PM

Or you could just walk around to the top.


climbau

29-Jan-2008
12:24:46 PM

Nah!! that'd be too much work Neil.

29-Jan-2008
1:34:17 PM

On 29/01/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>I've been trying (for 3 days) a new roof crack route

according to 45% of respondents, despite your ascent of a 26 roof crack you don't know how to jam because it involved jammies...

BTW the guano might have something to do with the infection!


nmonteith

29-Jan-2008
1:36:14 PM

On 29/01/2008 WM wrote:
>BTW the guano might have something to do with the infection!

I agree. Open sores and bird poo don't mix well.


evanbb

29-Jan-2008
2:36:47 PM

On 29/01/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>I agree. Open sores and bird poo don't mix well.

There's a parasite that lives in bird poo that infects snails and takes over their central nervous system. Snails eat bird poo, which then get this horrible parasite, which farks with their brains so much that they go against their instinct and crawl up to the highest point they can find. And become easy prey for birds. I'm not making this up.

Maybe you're already a carrier?

Edit: I didn't believe this as I wrote it, so had to check. Here's an explanation:
http://people.smu.edu/eheise/Leucochloridium_paradoxum.htm
and a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWB_COSUXMw

I love the digital era.


nmonteith

29-Jan-2008
2:39:13 PM

I might just pop over to Eureka Tower and see what the views like today....

Wendy

30-Jan-2008
8:44:15 AM

Snap Neil!, These are my infected mitts after a trip to Ben Lomond. I made some gloves so I could keep climbing for another 4 days. Mmmm grotty sweaty gloves on raw flesh. Really wasn't pretty ...

Cam McKenzie

30-Jan-2008
9:34:38 AM

As the guide says: "Don't forget either some tape for your hands or bandages - The choice is yours!"

crazyjohn

30-Jan-2008
9:46:17 AM

Awesome Wendy! The scar on the left hand looks a bit like a map of Tassie. A natural Tattoo. Ya know, its not only chicks who dig scars....

crazyjohn

30-Jan-2008
9:50:22 AM

Just thought I would share one mans 'Savage Journey' through the lost world cracks. Andreas Klocker modeling his battle scars from fighting with what he calls "the dirty bitch". The top pic is from a week ago, the bottom is from a recent effort. As you can see, sometimes tape doesn't help much. In fact, it is a poor substitute for good technique.


nmonteith

30-Jan-2008
9:55:56 AM

I love the destroyed shoes and pants as well!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

30-Jan-2008
11:39:58 AM

On 30/01/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>I love the destroyed shoes and pants as well!

Agree!
That bottom shot would be a worthy contribution to a mag with a few words to go with it!

Wendy

30-Jan-2008
7:17:15 PM

On 30/01/2008 Cam McKenzie wrote:
>As the guide says: "Don't forget either some tape for your hands or bandages
>- The choice is yours!"

That guide wasn't out yet! Besides, I was working on that theory that I didn't need gloves as I could actually jam. I discovered to my great pain that torquing in fat hand cracks at Ben Lomond puts that theory to shame.


evanbb

1-Feb-2008
11:24:43 AM

On 30/01/2008 crazyjohn wrote:
As you can see, sometimes tape doesn't help much.
In fact, it is a poor substitute for good technique.

It showed me that poor taping technique is no substitute either. If there is no tape on the bleeding bits, doesn't that mean you've done it wrong?

There are 63 messages in this topic.