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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Guess The Route

Pat
20-Nov-2008
2:28:54 PM
Actually, my Ant Prehn guide from Aus Climber 1989 calls it 'The Brain Snapper Varient (20) Brain
Snapper is listed as 23. It is a classy guide that you had to cut out, fold and staple together. mmm Mt
Keira qualtiy. Has their been a new guide since then?

GravityHound
20-Nov-2008
4:56:22 PM
On 19/11/2008 wollemi wrote:
>Budawangs, daave? Coarse conglomerate as well as ocean and lake views
>from the
>tops.

looks like budawangs rock to me as well. i am going for the castle

nmonteith
20-Nov-2008
5:19:18 PM
On 20/11/2008 Pat wrote:
>mmm Mt
>Keira qualtiy. Has their been a new guide since then?

The back of the mid 90s Nowra guide had a Mt Kiera guide (the one with Steve Bullen on the cover). Luckily for everyone it wasn't included in the more recent Nowra guide.
daave
20-Nov-2008
9:14:41 PM
On 20/11/2008 nmonteith wrote:
>Luckily for everyone it wasn't included in
>the more recent Nowra guide.

Ohhh I dunno, as a local crag for Gong climbers, Mt Keira really isn't THAT bad. The north face's Wallyard arete and Fascination are quality routes and the south face and west face have a handfull of nice climbs. If you get up there after not climbing there for a while, then you can have a pretty good time.

The mighty K, just needs some TLC! Lots of the climbs up there still have the original bolts whicn need to be replaced. If it was published in the new nowra guide, I think it would get a little more attention and make the climbing there a bit more enjoyable!

Pat
20-Nov-2008
10:58:52 PM
I always used to look over at the big lookout that was opposite the west face on the escarpment and
wonder what sort of routs there might be there, but I had no idea about how to put up a new route.
Rapped down the face of it once. Fantastic lowering through the canopy of the rain-forest.

pmonks
21-Nov-2008
3:32:27 PM
On 20/11/2008 Pat wrote:
> Has their been a new guide since then?

Some guys wrote up a guide about 10 years ago that I put up at http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/thegong.pdf. I wish they'd put their names on it so they got credit for it!
Olbert
23-Nov-2008
12:37:22 PM
Mt Kiera isnt that bad! There is a lot of worthless $h!t around but there are also some diamonds in the rough...that said, it isnt quite in the same league as Nowra
widewetandslippery
24-Nov-2008
8:47:26 AM
On 20/11/2008 Pat wrote:

>Rapped down the face of it once. Fantastic lowering through the canopy
>of the rain-forest.

This is a bit off topic. had a job once for an ABC documentry to have a botanist abseil of the escarment up near the cliffhanger cafe. He was filmed talking about escarpment vegetation and then was to abseil off through the canopy. He brought his 6 or 7 year old daughter along. He had never abseiled and was very, very scared. I had him on a toprope. 2 cameras rolling. Me, daughter and 1 camera man hiding in the scrub where I am toproping. He is juttering on the edge. Leans back, fully weights his abseil rope, little girl says deadpan "Daddy are you going to die"? He lets go of the rope and drops out of sight. Top rope catches him. Camera men are "This is great, can you do it again"! We just heard expletives over the radio.

Supposedly the vegetaion below the cliffs in the area prior to white settlement was quite open. Joseph Banks in his dairies describes this and the many fires burning in the area as it had a large aboriginal population. After settlement since the hills weren't suitible for western agricultural purposes and the local inhabbitants displaced, the vegetation turned to the "jungle" you see today.

Capt_mulch
24-Nov-2008
8:51:00 AM
On 24/11/2008 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Supposedly the vegetaion below the cliffs in the area prior to white settlement
>was quite open. Joseph Banks in his dairies describes this and the many
>fires burning in the area as it had a large aboriginal population. After
>settlement since the hills weren't suitible for western agricultural purposes
>and the local inhabbitants displaced, the vegetation turned to the "jungle"
>you see today.
As it was before any humans turned up and caused major changes in the vegetation.

Pat
24-Nov-2008
10:13:24 AM
This may be true to a degree, but some of the rainforest around the Illawarra would have been there as it
is today, when whites first come to OZ. There are some very big canopy trees in the area and they are
definitely more than two hundred years old.
widewetandslippery
24-Nov-2008
10:36:55 AM
Pat, I wouldn't disagree there. I'm no botanist. Mulch has a degree in vegetables and I think he is aluding to the same thing as you. From memory Banks observations were taken at Bulli, where the doco was being made. Also the open forest idea is that of little under growth or low scrub as opposed to the ground level jungle there is today.

Its a bit like Newnes. Pre shale oil mining the bush is different today than it was pre mining but a lot close to the premining days.

Pat
24-Nov-2008
11:05:22 AM
Ah yeah, I was talking about around Mt K. It is hard to know how wide the coverage of the rainforest was
and I agree that the influence of the first Australians on the density of open forest has been well
established. An interesting read on this is Eric Rolls' book 'a million wild acres'. Paints an interesting
picture of the Blue Mts during the first fifty years of white arrival. The vegetation has changed quite a lot
apparently since the aboriginals were displaced.

I thought that you were saying that rainforest cover has increased. My misunderstanding.
Olbert
23-Jan-2009
10:14:14 AM
I am bored...guess away

fish boy
23-Jan-2009
11:13:00 AM
Lamplighter?
gfdonc
23-Jan-2009
11:35:40 AM
Could be. In case it isn't, how about The Keyhole?

Eduardo Slabofvic
23-Jan-2009
12:03:31 PM
Bulger?
fish boy
23-Jan-2009
12:11:01 PM
I'll second Bulger actually...
gfdonc
23-Jan-2009
1:45:10 PM
Eh? You must mean the body-width-crack-variant part of Bulger, located well to its right, and generally called the Keyhole...

Eduardo Slabofvic
23-Jan-2009
2:16:36 PM
You must be pretty wide if you can't get your body into the crack on the second pitch of Bolger. Plus why
bother roping up for the key hole. There's no way that anyone could fall out of it.

cruze
23-Jan-2009
2:35:35 PM
I would definitely say lamplighter p3. The bolts at the top are used for the anchor. The rock in the sun is behind pharos.

The rock in the sun would have to be top of central gully left side for bulger and keyhole and it looks far too close...

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