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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

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Author
Guess The Route

Capt_Mulch
1-Nov-2008
9:21:45 AM
Where are the crags at Grafton??
james
1-Nov-2008
9:38:51 AM
up in the hills behind a place called Arrawarra Headland. we camped at Arrawarra last time I was there - great beach. look on google maps for a place called Glenreagh & Nana Glen. there is or was route info on the 'net somewhere. Being a IT wizz you can probably find it faster than me.... ;)

the crags are not secret, a bit like the Bluies but only 15m high. mikl would be proud of all the carrots....

pmonks
2-Nov-2008
4:16:58 AM
On 1/11/2008 james wrote:
>it looks like the Bluies or Sydney sandstone

Yep it's one of those.

>but going by your last random
>crag it could just as easily be one of the Coffs Harbour/Grafton crags.

This one is definitely less esoteric - in fact it's a bit of trade route.
Olbert
2-Nov-2008
1:54:18 PM
Is it sport or trad? (Cant tell from the photo)

At a guess I would say that its around the Cosmic County area...at least out that way?
Olbert
2-Nov-2008
10:03:56 PM

I got bored, so I'm pushing in!:-)

Sonic
2-Nov-2008
10:42:47 PM
looks like Nowra - maybe Diddy Kong (18) area at Thompsons Pt?
Olbert
2-Nov-2008
10:48:53 PM
Well...technically no but being nice guy I am, I will give it to you. It was actually DK Direct which from memory is a 20.

pmonks
3-Nov-2008
2:08:42 AM
On 2/11/2008 Olbert wrote:
>Is it sport or trad? (Cant tell from the photo)

From memory it's mixed - (sparse) gear down low but bolts up high (where the photo was taken).

>At a guess I would say that its around the Cosmic County area...at least
>out that way?

It is in the Blueys, but it's not near Cosmic. A trade route at a popular crag. ;-)
J.C.
3-Nov-2008
11:41:59 AM
Hmm, looks familiar... Boyce?

kuu
3-Nov-2008
12:41:34 PM
>
>It is in the Blueys, but it's not near Cosmic. A trade route at a popular
>crag. ;-)

Mount Boyce, The Eyrie, 2nd pitch.

Post Edit: Can't name the climber though.
J.C.
3-Nov-2008
1:40:57 PM
Ah, yes! Been a while since I've done that...
widewetandslippery
3-Nov-2008
1:43:21 PM
Passing wind?

evanbb
3-Nov-2008
2:00:41 PM
On 3/11/2008 kuu wrote:
>>
>>It is in the Blueys, but it's not near Cosmic. A trade route at a popular
>>crag. ;-)
>
>Mount Boyce, The Eyrie, 2nd pitch.
>
>Post Edit: Can't name the climber though.

I'm pretty sure it's not the Eyrie. I did it a week or 2 ago. I reckon it's down the other end, between Solo and Walkdown gullies. Maybe Wild is the Wind, or Fire bug.

tnd
3-Nov-2008
2:33:08 PM
The infrequently climbed P2 of Gently Mine?

pmonks
3-Nov-2008
2:52:32 PM
On 3/11/2008 kuu wrote:
>Mount Boyce, The Eyrie, 2nd pitch.

You're close enough for me to call it - it's Another Man's Juliet (17) just to the right of The Eyrie. I like this photo because it makes the climb look so "out there", when in reality it's pretty straight forward (only a couple of well protected moves at the grade).

BTW, does anyone know if any routes go up the inverted dunny bowl on the other side of the gully? From memory there's a rather nice looking narrow black slab on the far side of it that looked like it might offer some ok moderate routes. Could never quite be bothered to check it out for myself...

>Post Edit: Can't name the climber though.

Rob Hadley - last I heard he'd gotten into martial arts and motorbikes and moved to "in-zid".

tnd
3-Nov-2008
2:56:46 PM
On 3/11/2008 pmonks wrote:
>(snip) BTW, does anyone know if any routes go up the inverted dunny bowl on the
>other side of the gully? From memory there's a rather nice looking narrow
>black slab on the far side of it that looked like it might offer some ok
>moderate routes. Could never quite be bothered to check it out for myself...

Navel Excavator ** 15m (20 trad + carrots) Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of Abseil Gully. Rap in from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down (pic). Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings. Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed. (J Smoothy, R Bourne 2005)

This Aint Gardening 45m (22 trad + carrots) NOT in the place suggested in the Pircher guide. Takes the vague arete and wall on the right of the giant overhang. Not much gear and probably has never had a second ascent. (R Young, M Portman, 1994)

Scruffocide 18m (17)
Aceldama 15m (17) Neither of these look too inspiring in their present state.


evanbb
3-Nov-2008
3:11:58 PM
On 3/11/2008 pmonks wrote:
>On 3/11/2008 kuu wrote:
>>Mount Boyce, The Eyrie, 2nd pitch.
>
>You're close enough for me to call it - it's Another Man's Juliet (17)
>just to the right of The Eyrie.

17 eh? That's good for the ego. I lead it ages ago, had my shoulder fixed, put on 10kgs and went back to repeat it a fortnight ago. Got so pumped I almost vomitted. Mostly because of my insistence to place gear halfway through the crux moves... SCarter's guide lists it as a 15 which, sadly, is probably more correct.

pmonks
3-Nov-2008
3:55:26 PM
On 3/11/2008 evanbb wrote:
>SCarter's guide lists it as a 15 which, sadly, is probably more correct.

It's been more than 10 years since I did them (which shows how old this photo is!), but my recollection is that it had a couple of moves that were at least two grades harder than Set, Piece, Battle (14) next door (and which I happened to abseil down to get the photo of Rob). I have vague memories (...the only kind I seem to have these days...) of a couple of small-ish holds through the bulge, while SPB is honking great horizontal breaks / jugs at the same height (you can even see them in the photo).

Perhaps Mr Carter has a case of the Mikls (difficulty in accurately grading anything under 22)? And anyway, the bible.....errrr UBM guide says it's a 17, so that's what I'm sticking with. ;-)

Cheers,
Peter

evanbb
3-Nov-2008
4:12:39 PM
On 3/11/2008 pmonks wrote:
>On 3/11/2008 evanbb wrote:
>>SCarter's guide lists it as a 15 which, sadly, is probably more correct.
>
>It's been more than 10 years since I did them (which shows how old this
>photo is!), but my recollection is that it had a couple of moves that were
>at least two grades harder than Set, Piece, Battle (14) next door (and
>which I happened to abseil down to get the photo of Rob). I have vague
>memories (...the only kind I seem to have these days...) of a couple of
>small-ish holds through the bulge, while SPB is honking great horizontal
>breaks / jugs at the same height (you can even see them in the photo).
>
>Perhaps Mr Carter has a case of the Mikls (difficulty in accurately grading
>anything under 22)? And anyway, the bible.....errrr UBM guide says it's
>a 17, so that's what I'm sticking with. ;-)
>
>Cheers,
>Peter

You might be right. I thought Set, Piece Battle was a breeze comparitively, and yes, there's a quite thin move through the break on Juliette. Longish too. Long enough for me to think halfway through "oh shiit, I haven't committed enough here".

pmonks
3-Nov-2008
5:09:28 PM
Ok I hate to bore you all, but this thread is too much fun. Here's another easy one from the archives:



Bonus points if you can name not only the crag, boulder and problem, but also the make & model of shoe pmonks v2001 is wearing.

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There are 1157 messages in this topic.

 

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